Ok, so as some of you may know my master power has been stuck on, and am pretty sure this was stuck:
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi155.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs310%2Fnopistn%2Frandom%2520car%2520stuff%2F100220101000.jpg&hash=318a1d64682726ff862a18c4f0eb34360d9e8bdd)
After dissecting it I now see how it was supposed to work, I wondered why this slot is open, it would never do anything right?
I looked at the wireing digram it it apears to go to never never land (I coulden't tell).... and the top slot had to do with the headlight relay.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi155.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs310%2Fnopistn%2Frandom%2520car%2520stuff%2Frelaypaint.jpg&hash=0766d786b24b88556138f1159fa23c40471a6145)
Any who knows a good place to get that part (# 7J-5-1)
Thanks.
Phil,
One of those relays just sold today on eBay:
http://tiny.cc/MCIRelay (http://tiny.cc/MCIRelay)
You might contact the seller and see if he has any more.
MCI will sell you one for somewhere around $110.00
Bob
Quote from: wildbob24 on February 11, 2010, 04:25:10 PM
Phil,
One of those relays just sold today on eBay:
http://tiny.cc/MCIRelay (http://tiny.cc/MCIRelay)
You might contact the seller and see if he has any more.
MCI will sell you one for somewhere around $110.00
Bob
Thanks, I just sent him a message and I'm still searching the internet.
Any more ideas?
No need to pay MCI prices, or even get the P&B part.
Any 3-pole, 40-amp contactor with 24VDC coil will work fine. If you want to pay retail, I would bet Allied, Newark, or Del City will have them, or even Grainger. However, I often find these sorts of things on overstock, etc, by searching on eBay. For example, this 35-amp model for ten bucks might work for you; I'd have to look up the resistive-only rating:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Siemens-3RT1024-1KB-Contactor-35-Amp-24-VDC-Coil_W0QQitemZ220443547916QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335375990c (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Siemens-3RT1024-1KB-Contactor-35-Amp-24-VDC-Coil_W0QQitemZ220443547916QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335375990c)
Or, here's a 42-amp model, new in box for just $30 ($296 retail price!):
http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-SIEMENS-CONTACTOR-3TB4417-0BB4-3TB4417-OBB4-24-VDC_W0QQitemZ360187616094QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dcdadb5e (http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-SIEMENS-CONTACTOR-3TB4417-0BB4-3TB4417-OBB4-24-VDC_W0QQitemZ360187616094QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dcdadb5e)
Lots more came up; I couldn't go through them all.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
Quote from: Sean on February 11, 2010, 06:10:42 PM
No need to pay MCI prices, or even get the P&B part.
Any 3-pole, 40-amp contactor with 24VDC coil will work fine. If you want to pay retail, I would bet Allied, Newark, or Del City will have them, or even Grainger. However, I often find these sorts of things on overstock, etc, by searching on eBay. For example, this 35-amp model for ten bucks might work for you; I'd have to look up the resistive-only rating:
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Siemens-3RT1024-1KB-Contactor-35-Amp-24-VDC-Coil_W0QQitemZ220443547916QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335375990c (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Siemens-3RT1024-1KB-Contactor-35-Amp-24-VDC-Coil_W0QQitemZ220443547916QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item335375990c)
Or, here's a 42-amp model, new in box for just $30 ($296 retail price!):
http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-SIEMENS-CONTACTOR-3TB4417-0BB4-3TB4417-OBB4-24-VDC_W0QQitemZ360187616094QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dcdadb5e (http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-SIEMENS-CONTACTOR-3TB4417-0BB4-3TB4417-OBB4-24-VDC_W0QQitemZ360187616094QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dcdadb5e)
Lots more came up; I couldn't go through them all.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
thanks Sean, shipped for <$20! I bought the 35 amp one.
Quote from: philiptompkjns on February 11, 2010, 06:53:51 PM
thanks Sean, shipped for <$20! I bought the 35 amp one.
OK, but maybe I should have said a few other things first:
The contactor you are replacing is a "definite purpose" contactor that has a mounting plate affixed to the bottom. It is likely secured with four sheet metal screws.
The $10 model I linked is a motor starter; it will work fine for your application, however, it is meant to be mounted on a length of 35mm DIN rail:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_rail (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_rail)
This stuff is sold new by the meter, but you'll only need a couple of inches. You might find some scraps of it lying around at any surplus joint, you can, of course, also find it on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIN-RAIL-16-FACTORY-CUT-16-INCH-406mm-DIN-RAIL-35MM_W0QQitemZ130356515792QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e59da93d0 (http://cgi.ebay.com/DIN-RAIL-16-FACTORY-CUT-16-INCH-406mm-DIN-RAIL-35MM_W0QQitemZ130356515792QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1e59da93d0)
or you might be able to jury-rig some other way to mount the sucker. Once you have the unit in your hands, when you look at the base, it will be obvious how it is supposed to mount.
Also, this unit might be somewhat wider and/or longer than the one you are replacing, so you may need to squeeze it in there.
These Siemens units, though, are bullet-proof and once you get it in, I think you will be happy with it. I believe these have compression terminals, rather than screw posts, so you will end up cutting off the lug terminals from your wires.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
Thanks Sean, I already cut on of them off anyway just getting the old one out.
And I figured the mounting would be different, but with enough super glue, duct tape, zip ties, jb weld, ect. i'll figure it out.
Quote from: philiptompkjns on February 11, 2010, 08:49:14 PM
And I figured the mounting would be different, but with enough super glue, duct tape, zip ties, jb weld, ect. i'll figure it out.
Spoken like a true BusNut, but you left out baling wire LOL Jack
Jack with the round bales using string baling wire is becoming hard to find.
Phil, You are replacing both right? Tom Y
Quote from: JackConrad on February 12, 2010, 04:48:08 AM
Quote from: philiptompkjns on February 11, 2010, 08:49:14 PM
And I figured the mounting would be different, but with enough super glue, duct tape, zip ties, jb weld, ect. i'll figure it out.
Spoken like a true BusNut, but you left out baling wire LOL Jack
you're right.... the exhaust on my car is mainly attached with bailing wire though, so I do have some previous experience.
Quote from: Tom Y on February 12, 2010, 05:25:29 AM
Phil, You are replacing both right? Tom Y
Both of them? There is only one 3 pole relay that I needed to replace.
Quote from: philiptompkjns on February 12, 2010, 08:17:53 AM
Both of them? There is only one 3 pole relay that I needed to replace.
I think he means both shown in the photo. While only one of them may be seized, they are both clearly very corroded, so replacing them both now is probably a good idea. I saw at least one more of those Siemens contactors on eBay; you might ask the seller if he can pack two together and save you some shipping if he has not sent it yet. A side benefit would be that you can mount both together on the same section of DIN rail.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
Quote from: Sean on February 12, 2010, 08:58:53 AM
Quote from: philiptompkjns on February 12, 2010, 08:17:53 AM
Both of them? There is only one 3 pole relay that I needed to replace.
I think he means both shown in the photo. While only one of them may be seized, they are both clearly very corroded, so replacing them both now is probably a good idea. I saw at least one more of those Siemens contactors on eBay; you might ask the seller if he can pack two together and save you some shipping if he has not sent it yet. A side benefit would be that you can mount both together on the same section of DIN rail.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
eh, i think it's something pretty unimportant like headlights.. thanks though.
Next time your contactor sticks in don't use a hammer to "unstick it", that bakelight is tender! If it sticks shut the power off.........check for power then pull the front cover off, just two screws.....then inspect it! It might save you some cash! You also have a major water issue.....to cause that much rust!
As a good preventive maintenance program........with power off check those screws for all of the wiring, fixture mounting screws also make sure everything is tight......just don't gorilla gripe it! Check the contacts to make sure they aren't pitted or abused (high current flow through pitted and damaged contacts build heat...........heat destroys)! You can buy contact kits to replace the old ones there are new springs in those kits too!..........they make kits for coils and all kinds of accessories!
Good luck!