Glad I decided to do a pressure test with WATER before I filled up my tank! When I got this tank the guy put the drain in the wrong place and I had to seal the hole. When I used black ABC pluming glue I did not do the best job. :( I am showing where it is leaking in the pic. It is leaking pretty bad, a nice steady drip of about 3 a sec.
My idea was to take some type of glue (what type though... epoxy? CA?) and get it in there with a small needle.
My friends idea is to cut the tip off and try to get the piece out of there, then put in another piece with cap back in with lots more glue.
What is YOUR idea? I don't need shat everywhere!
Thanks,
Jim
Remove the plug as best you can, use a Dremel to grind away the rest of the old plug carefully).
I bet a new plug with lots of Sikaflex would do the trick.
Bet you're glad to find it now rather than later.... ;)
YES I AM! ;D
Man.... my dremal tool just took a poo on me. :(
Maybe I can remove it with my dremal Multi Max? LOVE THIS TOOL BTW!!!
Im just scared that if I start cutting it out that it I will go too far into the original plastic cuff and screw it up for good.
J-B weld
thank you trevor
Quote from: moose on February 09, 2010, 11:07:35 AM
J-B weld
thank you trevor
Do you suggest injecting it in there? With what?
j-b weld is a epoxy you mix two products together and you are supplied a popsicle stick to smooth it out with .
this product is self leveling .
i put it on a radiator leak in my 450 deisel on the plastic cap on radiator
that was 3 yrs ago still no leaks 150000 miles .clean it good rough it up with sand paper, file
apply all over put it thick and possibly after a day put a second coat
trevor
OK, Thanks Trevor. I will try that before I try to take the piece out. I have heard good things about JB weld, but have never used it. I am familiar with epoxy like substances and have always had great luck. I will give the tuff stuff a try.
Would you suggest the water weld?
http://www.jbweld.net/products/index.php (http://www.jbweld.net/products/index.php)
Also.... should I drill out a small hole to get the product in?
i think they have 3 products you mix
the marine weld takes longerto cure and with the regular j-bweld
I would try any one of them
great product
The longer to set gives you more time to move it around and get it to where you want it
trevor
no do not drill small hole just clean good rough up area with sand paper or a file toget in close to everything
dry good
Mix it up apply with popsicle stick
wait til hard once good and hard 24 hrs if you want rough that up put another coat on top and go larger
it will work
trevor
Jim,
We have been there done that. So, here is what we did. They also put our black tank hole in the wrong spot. We sent it back, and had him weld a proper plug in. Our freshwater tank, however, had a leak at a seam. I took it to a local plastic welder, and he tried to repair it. He couldn't get it repaired, so he built us a new one.
Somebody suggested that we use JB. I wouldn't do it....here is why. If it seals now, but then works it's way loose 5k miles from now, you have a mess on your hands (I know what I am talking about). Now is the best time to take care of it properly.
Do you know what kind of material your tanks are made out of?
So I would recommend you taking it to your local welder, and getting it fixed properly. Don't do a half way job.
YMMV
God bless,
John
Well John, the tank is in there permanently! Well.... it would be a crazy time to remove it. I am in Canby OR right now. (20 min from Portland)
The closest place I know of that can spin weld is almost 2 hours away in Eugene.
My $.02
Since it is installed past the point of easy removal . . . clean & scuff the surface to give the epoxy a good tooth.
Use the JB weld that fits the job.
In the odd chance it leaks in the future, you can worry about doing a more time consuming repair then.
In this case, I think JB weld is your best solution. When properly used, it is phenomenal. I've seen it used to seal a cracked engine block on an old A/C tractor - the crack was over 8" long. I don't know how long it will last, but it was still holding when I sold the tractor after 12 years.
Good luck!
how about a double dooty repair (pun intended) and after you epoxy the leak get a rubber cap (the kind with the hose clamp around it) and put it over the original repair just in case.
To clarify do the epoxy repair and check it but then put the cap over to have the added security.
Just a thought.
Melbo
JB Weld is what I would use. Make sure to scuff it up the clean for the best bond. I have used this on a 6" fan shaft in a babit bearing to keep the plant going when the shaft was badly scared up when a bearing failed it lasted two years till we decided to change it out. the shaft rotated at 1200 RPM max.
John
Jim,
Sorry, I didn't read that it was installed. Ouch!!! If that is the case, I would agree. JB would probably be the best route. Sounds like us. We installed the freshwater tank, without checking for leaks...lol...bad news.
God bless,
John
Removed
The stuff dallas posted about is REALLY good at sealing cracks and leaks
Put that inside the cap with the hose clamp after you do the jb weld
Then you will have THREE types of repairs at the same spot
Epoxy polyurethane and the rubber cap
Should keep the BLACK WATER safely inside the tank
Melbo
Shoot. Dont' mess with all that gooy stuff. Just put it in use, and add more fiber to your diet. Them fibers gotta be good for something!! ::)
just remember it's the "S###S"if it fails.......
Moderator edit: I know that was marginal, but we are starting to see a trend towards harsher language and are getting complaints. It is the desire of the moderating team that everyone enjoys themselves here and feels comfortable to have any member of their family reading along. So for the sake of those who are uncomfortable with harsh language, we ask everyone to practice some restraint in that regard.
If you like JB Weld, you'll love this stuff!
http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html (http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html)
can be bought at most boat/marine shops and is good!
We used to take it to the demolition derby's and use it to repair derby cars in between races! I've used it to seal cracked blocks, manifolds and even made it put the radiator back together when the hose ripped the nipple out of it! Also used it to stop major radiator leaks by just gobbing it in the area damaged while it was still pouring out because we only had like 15 mins to get ready for the next race!
For best results though it is recommended to properly clean and prep the surface first!
I love JB weld and keep a new package of it on all the buses in the tool box, but in the shop we use Marine Tex and I have it in my personal traveling tool kit too!
FWIW HTH ;D BK ;D
Quote from: Oregonconversion on February 09, 2010, 11:52:09 AM
The closest place I know of that can spin weld is almost 2 hours away in Eugene.
Uh . . .no. The closest place that can spin weld is YOU.
1) Get the new fitting AND a mating cap or plug.
2) Clean off ALL of the old fitting, and make sure you have a flat mating surface for the new one. Any bumps will give you trouble.
3) Drill a hole in the exact center of the cap or plug, and put a bolt through it. Cinch a nut down TIGHT, so that there will be no chance of the bolt spinning in place. Even better is if you have a hole saw, just modify the cap or plug to fit as if it were another saw cup. Attach this to your high-speed power drill. Now you have a spin-weld adapter.
4) Grease the threads of the adapter, and run it into the new fitting, making sure not to get any of the lubricant onto the mating area of the fitting..
5) Start the drill, and once the fitting is spinning at full speed, press it into place and hold it hard enough to make friction but not so hard that it slows it down.
6) You will feel when the plastic softens and starts to weld. Let it run about 10 seconds after you feel it change as much as it's going to, then push firmly.
7) Stop the drill, and hold the fitting firmly in place for at least 30 seconds without moving anything. If you have a helper, they can carefully squirt a little cool water on the weld (careful not to get it into the drill!).
8) Back the adapter out of the fitting, and flood the weld with cold water until it's cool, then inspect.
Hey I'm not sure what I'm looking at in your picture... is that a poly tank with an ABS fitting "glued in" to it? If so, the ABS glue will not have stuck to the tank at all (nothing sticks to poly tanks) and you should be able to simply unscrew your plug and put another one in properly, with some good pipe dope instead of abs glue...