ok walls are up pluming in now what ? i am using vinal on bus floor do i put down vinal first ? then shower pan ?
or do i set the pan in a thin set ? what about plywould in back of shower do i seal it ? paint it ? tarpaper it ?
plywood under shower pan ? need lots of help from the experts thanks john
Hi John, Here is what we did; http://singinglandcruiser.blogspot.com/search/label/shower (http://singinglandcruiser.blogspot.com/search/label/shower) . Hope it helps, M&C ;D
i am using a one peice unit no tile need to known how to prep floor & wall thanks john
I would put the vinyl under the shower if you can. It would easier to lay now. Someone suggested I paint my floor under the carpet. I didn't but wished I had. Goodluck Tom Y
can you tell me how you installed yours still looking for help thanks john
I wish I had more pics, but not a whole lot of in-depth photos. We ended-up installing the shower pan and drain, then cutting the linoleum around the shower base. To install the pan, I ended-up raising the pan on a wood base just a smidge to I could get access to the drain for future repairs. The linoleum fits underneath the pan by about six inches all the way around. My thinking was if the stuff started bubbling-up, I didn't want to have to cut underneath or remove the shower pan to rip the vinyl. It's working pretty good so far, but I don't have the base trim on it yet.
I have some pics on: www.webcove.com/eagle (http://www.webcove.com/eagle) although I don't think there's much in the way of shower pics on there.
Good luck,
Art
While I did a tile shower from scratch, what you have is just a simple fiberglass unit. Installation should follow the instructions that should have come with it. Basically, I would secure 3/4" plywood to the walls behind the unit. One bus wall, and one perpendicular to the bus wall, which can be just 3/4 plywood, with no studs, secured to the floor and ceiling with pocket screws. If you need to trim your unit to fit your wall profile, do so now. Use a diamond tile blade on a 4" grinder to trim the fiberglass. Take your time to make it look nice.
Install the valve and shower head plumbing in the back side of the perpendicular wall. Measure your drain hole and cut a 6-8 inch hole in the floor so you can get your hand in to install the drain fittings. Caulk along the bottom edge and set the unit in place. Predrill holes in the flanges and install with flat flanged head screws (not bugle head or drywall screws). Put screws every 6-8 inches along the flanges. Clean up the caulk and/or reapply along the base/floor joint. Install the flooring material right up to the unit, and trim with a piece of trim made for vinyl flooring. Trim the flange edges with wood trim.
That's about it. May be a few slight details missing here, but you get the idea.
Oh, yeah, you'll need to decide if you're going to use a glass shower enclosure or a curtain. My vote is for curtain. When not in use, you leave it open. The shower dries out, and it adds more openness feel to the immediate space.
Crown
As Gumpy says, you have the full unit already including base so you have very little work to do. With what you have, I would do like Gumpy says, put up a wall of 3/4" plywood perpendicular to the bus wall and another wall of 3/4" plywood against the bus wall. In my prevost because of curved walls, I had to build the bus wall side out some so the plywood was straight up and down. I used tapered 2 X 4 for that that I scribed to follow the curved bus wall on one side and was straight on the other side where the plywood attached to it. Done put the 3/4" plywood over the tapered 2 x 4 until after you install the water supply. Put your water supply system in then cover the tapered 2 x 4 with 3/4" plywood. Once that is done, then build a base of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 with 3/4" plywood, preferably treated, to set the shower base on and still give you clearance for the shower drain and the pipes coming off it to drain into your gray/black water system (depending on your plans for spearate gray black tanks or black only). The choice of adhesive to attach the shower walls to the plywood has many options. You could use contact cement, paneling adhesive, silicone, etc. Usually manufacturers will tell you what they recommend for their units so the instructions may tell you. I have troweled paneling adhesive in the past and it lasted for 4-5 years then started coming loose so am not to keen on it, especially in a moving installation. The contact cement works well if you are right on when putting up the shower walls but if not, you are stuck with what you get. To me, the best results I have gotten is troweling silicone caulk in place using a 3/16" "v" groove trowel. It gives you the time to move things around to get them where you want them then sets up with time. The silicone has some "give" to it for moving installations like ours and it also waterproofs the plywood at the same time. One tip, before you apply the silicone, get someone to help you hold the shower stall in place so you can mark an outline on the plywood of where you want the stall to fit so you only trowel silicone in the right area. This is the so called dry fit test. HTH
Rob
91 Prevost LeMirage XL
Missouri
hi all thanks for all the good advice my shower unit came from a monico and is fiberglass so i cut it up to make it fit the curves
of bus then reglased it and painted it with auto paint so now it fits wall / roof curve i put up plywood side wall but am thinking
its best to seal or paint all plywood behind / under shower before final install will post pics when done thanks again john
ps pic of shower cut up and fiberglassed
John, You may want to think about the ceiling also if you havn't yet. I put plactic sheet on mine then put the shower in. Tom Y