I have not done much troubleshooting yet but thought I would throw this out to you. I have a 1984 MC-9 with a 6v92. When I hit the start button up front I just get a clicking noise, from the back I find the clicking is a air switch on the fire wall. With bus aired up the air switch controls a cylinder on the blower. I have notice that the left side brake light is out the right is working. I have charged batteries and that is about all I have done this far except wiggle the auto shifter and cycle the Park brake.
John
John,
Are you sure the batteries have taken a charge? I would check the state of charge with a hydrometer. If they are fully charged, the specific gravity should read 1260 to 1280. A 75 percent charge will give a spec. gravity reading of 1230 to 1250. With a load on the batteries there shouldn't be able to read any voltage between the battery post itself, and the cable clamp (terminal). Sounds like you have either low batteries or a loose or corroded connection.
If you don't find the problem there, check the ground connections. There are probably other things it could be, but I sure someone more knowledgeable than I am will have to chime in. You know the old saying; "If you hear hoofbeats, expect horses, not zebras." LOL Here's hoping, at least, that it's something simple!
Dennis
Rats! I posted another remark and lost it...I was thinking, the solenoid you hear clicking is just dropping out due to low voltage when you try to crank the engine. Can you have someone crank it while you see how much the battery voltage is dropping? Maybe if you dry the dishes or vacuum the house.
Dennis
Waja figger out, John?? Clue us in.
John
I had a similar issue this last summer and it turned out to be water in the turn signal that was shorting out my start circuit and popping the intermittent breaker.
Pull the lense on that bad turn signal and see if there is water in it. If there is drain it and drill a hole in the housing in the bottom to let the water out.
Hope it helps.
Rick
Water in the lense housings is a common problem easily corrected by drilling a small hole in the bottom of the lense.
Thanks I plan to look at it today. Last week was long and I didn't get a chance but will more time now. I lost my job and now will have time to move ahead on my conversion.
I will keep you posted
John
John,
Sorry to hear about your job. Hopefully you can look at it as an opportunity to work on the bus more while you find another.
Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
The click you hear is probably the shutdown skinner valve which controls the shutdown cylinder on top of the engine. With air in the system, you should see the cylinder retract when
you turn on the master switch up front.
It's possible you have a stuck fuel pressure sensor, located on top of your secondary filter on the left of the engine. Jumper the output side of that switch to ground and try again,
using the remote switch in the engine compartment.
Keep us posted on your results...
craig
Thanks Craig
The work force is pissed with the companies decision. I will work on bus and look for work and get legal advise all at the same time. I can multitask.
I found that the fuel sensor was the problem. The wire was jimmy rigged into wire 63 BL. In my book that is the lavatory blower wire. I ran a new wire from the fuel sensor to the starter solenoid relay and bus started. I will need to redo wires when warmer out but got it going. Took me all day but I got it. I am not sure how original wires were ran?
Found brake light out I can't believe one has to buy the whole assembly. I got bulb and I fixed it myself.
JOHN
The clicking solenoid that controls the air cyl may be the shutoff circuit energized. Having the rear shutdown switch accidentally on can cause this along with any other problems in this circuit. However, this won't keep the bus from starting if there is no air pressure, only if it is aired up.
Check the position of your turn signal switch. If it is mover slightly too much toward the left it cuts out the left stop light. Happens to me once in a while when I move the lever to read gages and have people tell me my brake lights aren't working.
Quote from: Jriddle on January 10, 2010, 02:50:06 PM
Thanks Craig
The work force is pissed with the companies decision. I will work on bus and look for work and get legal advise all at the same time. I can multitask.
I found that the fuel sensor was the problem. The wire was jimmy rigged into wire 63 BL. In my book that is the lavatory blower wire. I ran a new wire from the fuel sensor to the starter solenoid relay and bus started. I will need to redo wires when warmer out but got it going. Took me all day but I got it. I am not sure how original wires were ran?
Found brake light out I can't believe one has to buy the whole assembly. I got bulb and I fixed it myself.
JOHN
Yep, that's the problem child. I have an 8"-10" alligator patch wire hanging next to my fuel pressure sensor now because it got
so bad sticking.
Glad you got it running. Add the rewire to the warm weather to-do list.
John,
You don't have to buy the whole assembly all the lenses contain replaceable bulbs.
You can buy individual bulbs or an awesome bus light kit from C&J coach here in Minnesota. I think the kit was around $75 and it has 4-5 bulbs for different applications. All 24 volt bulbs.
In case you want it their number is nine-five-two 881-0034 ask for Fred in parts.
Hope it helps...
Rick
Rick
This thing was sealed I had to take it a part and solder an new bulb in. I will call Fred and see what he has got.
Thanks John