well that was easy with tons of colors out there my pick was easy i went to a closeout at a paint place
to pick up house paint and started walking around this warehouse and find a dusty pallet with auto paint
the guy lets me take one to a local body shop to check it out the guy opens it and tells me its a good
paint and pours a little in a gun and shoots a scrap of fiberglass looks great i go back to warehouse
and there are 14 1/2 gal all the same color so bus will now be red i was thinking of red or wine so i was
lucky after dealing on price as i was buying all i got the whole lot for $ 185 went one line and found the
same paint in white for $ 206 a gallon and red cost a lot more so for $ 185 for 14 1/2 gallons i am a
happy bus nut it looks a lot like the red on pats senic
Quote from: crown on January 06, 2010, 10:28:50 AM
it looks a lot like the red on pats senic
That is too red! You're gonna need to be passing out sun glasses!
Go for it, John!!!
God bless,
John
Crown,
If you know the mfr of the paint and such then you can select your additives with confidence. I used a "fisk eye" reducer, activator that makes the paint hard and a additional "extra" hardener, UV filter that was extremely important, reducer of the proper "speed" and I am certain I am forgetting something else. I spent a bunch for the chems I added and I think my paint cost was 50 or 60% of the total. I have also sprayed the cheapest Nason they offered when Nason was a bottom shelf product and added nothing but reducer and it is still looking really good after 15 years of Orygun rain and such.
There is red and maybe a little yellow in your paint. Have the shop shoot it with their analyzer and get the exact mix quantities that define your color. You can then blend in other pigments and get the Burgandy/wine or any other color you might want that contains red in the mix formula. Brown for orange and black for darker right down to black black. Boy did you get away with murder for price.
You will have 28 gal after it is reduced so you will be able to paint more than one bus. This situation of yours should expand you list of friends. ;D
John
Crown,
I am surprised Kyle didn't say that looks like one of Cliff's deals.
Go for it and Greaaaaaaaat shopping there.........
Cliff
the paint is sherwin williams acrylyd acrylic enamel the color is called raymond orange ? but it sure is red
i went to the local auto paint store today and they sell sherwin he told me it a one shot does not need
clear coat he also said i could use a hardner with it thats all i known for now if anyone knowns more let me
known its more then i need but at that deal well who could say no will paint the toad to match john
Sherwin Williams is one of the top brands. Spendy! I shot my Z with Burgands and the color was rich and that stuff laid down like it was hand rubbed laquor. I added a ton of additives to it. I think the one I forgot was the one that makes the final job smoother and less orange peel prone.
It isn't called "single shot" it is called "single stage". I think the use of any "clear coat" is bad advice. This product worked really really well for me and at that time I could afford anything that caught my eye.
Go look at the color charts for what your color will look like after it dries. And it needs to be thoroughly mixed before color checking.
I might comment that SOMEBODY rejected that paint order for SOME reason. Some body might have written down the wrong colors or quantities of pigment for the selected color and made up a batch of "mistake" BUT I bet they got the label for the color to agree with the original order. If it said "Midnight Purple" you wouldn't accept that, now would you? Get the shop to color analyze the stuff and then determine where you should go with pigments. It specifically does NOT look like "Orange" to me either.
John
thanks john anymore advice just let me known thanks john
ps do you want to paint my bus when the time comes sounds like you known how to do it right
Crown,
I did auto paint and custom motorcycle paint for years. Most people have a tough time painting with "single stage" paint. If you are doing it that way be prepared to do lots of sanding and buffing out the orange peel and or runs. That is if someone is not experienced with "single stage". If it is sprayed to heavy you will have lots of runs. To little and you could have dry spots, orange peel & cloudiness and not very good coverage. And this can happen for several reasons. Typically with this type you will only need a reducer and hardener. There are also additives such as "fish eye" eliminator (it helps keep from having the little deep divets in the paint mostly caused by oils or chemicals on the primed surface before painting. Keep in mind painting a bus will be nothing like painting a small car. The key would be to get it painted completely on one side in the same day or you may end up with a color variance. Also make sure you use the exact amount of reducer at each paint gun fill or that will change the color slightly as well.
The key is prep, prep, prep. Use plenty of prep-sol. A good surface cleaner before painting. There are several brands. I always used PPG.
I am also adding this link for troubleshooting paint issues from PPG: https://corporateportal.ppg.com/NR/rdonlyres/5C4BB437-C36C-4E3F-99B8-AF274761D58E/0/troubleshooting.pdf
HTH,
Bryan
Crown,
My degrees are in business. My hobbies have always been with my hands and almost always automotive associated. Until I painted my 30 ft RV at the ripe old age of 55 I had never done more than prep work and all of that was gone over with sanding primer by pros. Soooo, even with the one RV and one SUV I don't meet even the most hypothetical definition of an expert or "experienced". Now, facts be known, I have talked long and hard with both experts and "experienced" in association with that RV job. You are getting product and procedure and technique info I gained. The encouragement you are getting from me is the result of the SUPERB job I got from listening to those guys and one lady who knew "what they are all using".
My days of painting my own stuff are long gone...let alone that of others. And I regret that on both counts. Thanks for the invite,. though.
Having developed a "professional ear" to determine who was selling a bill of goods at the conference table, I would add that Bryan sounds like an excellent source of data. I agree with everything he has said and that I am usually less cautious than the experts I would be more cautious that he in regards to the additives. Fish eye preventer is almost beyond critical if you are using a heavily dosed single stage METALIC, If that fish eye stuff wasn't made specifically for metallic Emron Poly then Emron put it on the map and in the painters tool box. Silver Emron is made with clear to which is added a smidgen of black pigment and lots of silver of the granularity you desire. That stuff will fish eye if you paint over fresh primer and the car never leaves the booth between coats. The silver will also orient itself different between sections and the job will look like the fenders were painted as an afterthought or whatever parties don't "agree" with the rest. You aren't doing Emron or Metallic but the sensitivity of the paint to contamination, while lots less critical, still remains. But, Bryan has the experience with the current field of products and fish eye preventer was so very very expensive back in the day and may still be. I disagree with him strenuously on not using a UV filter unless SW already has it in the product as a standard feature. Mine did in fact have it and I added the optional dose anyway but my consideration was living in S Kalifornia. Nuff said.
Now about doing it your self. DO THAT! I painted my RV outside in front of a barn on a dirt road. I kid you not. Done mostly at first light and after thoroughly wetting down the dirt prior to shooting. High tech hillbilly dust suppression. Not a single speck or bug in any of the vertical surfaces....not one. The front little horizontal surface was decidedly "rough" by comparison, Buses are mostly vertical sided...soooo... I used a reducer that was "slower" than the temperature called for. That should have put me at risk for more ruins but I have none showing but I "blew" one down the side but only one and it doesn't show, as I said. I used a spendy De Villbus professional gun and that is critical advice I often heard. I think my Harbor freight would have worked. I even stretched my material by spraying closer than I should have. Trick there is "move fast' and long strokes and Bryan is probably shuddering at this point. And I wasn't using that great SW product....I was using junk level Nason Wimbledon Tan. I am looking at it out the window as I type and it looks great. Little dull cause I have NEVER waxed it in all the years since 96(I guess). Coat of Mc Guires would bring it back to "as new".
If you can paint in grass or inside a huge building you would be far better off. As I said, even a dirt road will do. HIRE a strong BACK body shop worker to help you and guide you. My guess is 40 hrs including shooting and much longer for admiring. Buy the DeVillbus and a taping machine and a couple different widths of plastic taping material. Don't even think about newspaper and tape. for a bus. The taping machines used to be expensive but they now 20 or 30 bucks. The $200(+) De Villbus as well. Get tutoring on using the gun and READ those setup instructions many times.
I want some payback on this.....post pictures. ;D
As always,
John
John,
I have been out of painting for about 4 years so some things may have changed. I know that a clear coat usually has UV protectant values in it but I had never heard of an additive sold seperately for single stage paint (acrylic, lacquers or urethane enamel). I called a friend that owns a wholesale auto paint store and he said he has never heard of one either. Where did you get what you are talking about from? Just curious.
With the two-stage system, a pigmented basecoat is covered with a clear or slightly tinted topcoat that gives the base its gloss and UV protection. The alternative "single stage" paint contains the gloss and UV protectants in the same material as the pigment.
Enamel, popular in the 70's, is also still available if you're looking for a coating that's inexpensive, durable and thick, a couple coats of enamel provides the same film thickness as 20 coats of hand-rubbed lacquer.
Urethane is the first choice of today's custom painters. It bonds well, provides excellent protection from UV rays, is durable, and offers a vibrance of color not found in the older type paints. Plus, it was the introduction of urethane paints in the 80's that brought about the two-stage, basecoat/clearcoat paint system that is prevalent today.
Each system has its pros and cons. I do like "single stage" paint. Some advantages and dis-advantages are: Clearcoat gives the paint a higher gloss than a "single stage" but not as much depth. With a "single stage" I can put on five coats, wet-sand with 500-grit, fix any imperfections, then spray on five more coats. Two-stage paint has a fairly short window of time between the application of the final basecoat and when the clear has to go on. I can usually shoot two maybe three coats before I have to clear. The UV protection offered by a clear coat helps to keep the pigment looking fresh longer.
If you are going to use a paint with metal flake or pearls you would want to use a base clear system as you can not sand on those products without distorting the paints look.
I know this was lengthy but hope it helps!
Bryan
wow thanks for all the help still need to do a lot before painting bus but will keep you up to date
can i paint the roof now before i put in vents and a/c then tape off roof when i paint the rest of bus ?
nothing is to long when you can learn from it thanks again
Crown,
Usually there is no problem cutting holes after you paint if you use a good masking tape where you are going to cut and cut through the masking tape it will keep from shredding paint. I like to use two layers of tape. I will usually take a brush (if you can not spray) and go around the opening to coat the exposed raw metal. I would use a primer/sealer and then paint. Never too much protection from rust.
I still enjoy the spraying part just hate all the sanding ::)
Bryan
hi bryan what i was thinking off doing was cut all holes first then paint roof let dry then put in a/c vents ect.
then later on in the year paint rest of bus and tape off whole roof with plastic . the roof is aluminum with
factory paint in good shape how best to prep the roof thanks all this imfo is very helpfull john
Since you saved so much on paint, spend a little extra and buy quality masking tape, like 3M or similar...don't skimp here either!
Crown,
I thought you were going to cut holes after painting. Sorry for the misunderstanding. It would be best to have the holes cut before pianting.
I am kind of anal and usually take more steps than some but I will typically sand down to bare metal, fix any imperfections either by using a body hammer and dolly if I can get to both sides (in the case of a bus that would be tuff) or if it is small ding, a little filler.
I will use a dual action air sander with 320 grit paper to begin with. Once things are sanded properly mask off what you do not want primer or paint on.
You could just sand things down and feather out any peeling areas but I have had the old paint lift when I started to prime. Then you have to start all over. It is a crap shoot on whether it will or not. If it were me I would check into hiring some cheap labor to sand it down. Or better yet check with a local Vo-tech school to sand it down for you.
Check out MAXX FILL 2K: http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/fliers/5451.pdf (http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/fliers/5451.pdf)
It is a high build urethane primer surfacer. I have a friend that uses it in his body shop and seems to like it really well. I have a quart that I planned on using on my sons camaro but have not gotten to it yet. It is supposed to be a fast drying,high build (will fill small imperfections in the substrate), easy sanding properties and can be top-coated with anypaint system. Works good on aluminum, steel, fiberglass and iron. Urethane primers are more flexible.
Just stay away from Polyester primers as they are more porous and should only be dry sanded.
Sealers aren't necessarily required; many surfacers do double duty as sealer and surfacer. But it's a good insurance policy to help prevent things from going wrong, like solvents moving down from the topcoats to the metal. Sealers also help against stone chipping, cracking, crazing, and they help hold the top coats to undercoats. The MAXX FILL 2K should accomplish this.
Once the primer is dry you will want to give it a light sanding with anything from 400-600 grit by hand. Just make the surface smooth and use a sanding board to help with keeping things straight.
I hope this is enough to get you started
Bryan
Bryan,
Sure it helps. It certainly adds to the depth of my, and everybody else's, knowledge on the subject. I don't think that i knew any of what you said. Thanks for that. You seem to be pretty much the horses mouth on the subject and we should all benefit from that.
You didn't mention my advocating spraying outside? Please do. I have been called an idiot over that many times and both of my jobs came out like they were shot by a pro in a booth and my eye sight was 20 20 at the time I have alligator hide on the issue and I can't wait to do another but will hire the labor the next time.
It is curious that you would mention that there never was a UV booster for Emron. That guy painted three cars of mine and two were with Acrylic Enamel and one was Emron. He screwed with me on the last job on quality and billing. He also double billed my insurance company and when caught insisted I had colluded with him, a black lie, His major mistake was telling me "F### you! If you don't give me another $500 dollars", that after it was proven he double billed, "you will need an attorney to get your car back". My attorney, a close friend that handled my light work as a favor, said leave the car with him and we will bill him $35 dollars a day towards a leased Porsche. Deal! I sued him, his wife, his foreman(he got me to use that shop against my instinct), his silent partner and even a guy that was going to invest in the shop. He was bankrupted, blackballed by the insurance coop group, divorced, lost un escorted visits with his son and prosecuted on drug distribution charges after the damages case settled and humiliated beyond tears in a courtroom. Not that I want to give him any credit at all but I think that was the last time he told a grown man to "get an attorney". He was the one that charged me for the uv additive and I watched him pour in those little vials. So even though I watched a crook and it was in the late seventies, I won't bet much on it. If anything at all. Not even what he actually poured in that bucket. Now honestly, I had forgotten all about that dark incident in my life cause I always forget about it after I get my revenge. But you said....
Sorry if I rambled on. Its that I only have that one single "paint shop War Story".
I hope to hear more from you on the painting side.
Thanks,
John
Crown,
Bryan and I are going to disagree on a couple of things.
First is that the factory paint is "the best" you will find and if you can keep it as an under layment you will get a better job. Maybe bus' are different from auto but I think both used high quality stuff. That stuff about "taking her down to bare metal" is rarely the way to go but my info is dated and I am disagreeing with a guy with experience.
Second. IF YOU HAVE ALUMINUM EXPOSED YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO TREAT IT. Sorry to yell but I have seen the aftermath of leaving out this step and it is a heart breaker. PP makes the good stuff and it requires a cleaner stage, treatment and then a sealer stage. It cost like the dickens and was a pain. Cannot be skipped or corner cut.
Three. That "high body primer" adds up to you paint the vehicle an extra time and you need a booth. I used it once and it amounted to the absolute most work I did on the SUV. Every time you paint you "make" a ton of dust as overspray. I found that after I applied the primer I had to take all the masking off and WASH THE CAR. Pressure wash if you can. Have to get rid of the dust or else when you hit it with the gun a cloud of dust rises no matter how many times you "blew it off". That high body stuff means that you must sand the entire vehicle all over and you end up with a thicker coat of paint. As Bryan pointed out that single stage enamel is thick and you can't just keep painting coats. If you have a bunch of coats up on the roof I would sand the top two layers or so and leave the original. And don't forget to treat any aluminum showing. Personally I wouldn't do anything but sand it with 320 if there are less than 4 coats and they look stable. Use what is called "primer sealer" which is a semi gloss finish and doesn't require sanding. It will undoubtedly show up bad sections so you will go back to sanding and treating and masking and sealing/primer application. Tell thew shop that you need a sealer that will sand up to Poly urethane PURE WHITE. Ask if there are any additives you should consider. If you paint outside the roof will be rough with dust....nobody sees that. Pure white will last the longest and reflect the most heat and hide imperfections like no other color. Your sealer MUST keep the Poly chemicals away from the under paint or the old stuff will crinkle horribly. Use it and no problem.
If you cut thru the painted roof you need to treat the exposed metal edges of the hole....or at least I would but I am gun shy having seen a perfectly horrific paint job from painting bare aluminum. IT starts to bubble over here and travels to way over there in just a few months. Easy fix with going back to bare metal and proper prep. Easy fix.
This is a more fun trip than I may be impressing you. If you don't blunder you end up with a really grand do it yourself achievement.
As I said... Bryan has all; the cred on this topic. I only have anecdotal stuff I learned the hard way. They didn't have this board back then.
Still love yous guys,
John
once again thanks i need all the help i can get . as for the roof it has only the factory paint in good shape
as for the sides i used fiberglass so i will be painting alum.& fiberglass getting back to the roof is it ok to
prep and paint only the roof now. and the rest of bus say in june ? crown
That's about as lipstick red as you can get! Hope you're not shy! Good Luck, TomC
John & Crown,QuoteFirst is that the factory paint is "the best" you will find and if you can keep it as an under layment you will get a better job. Maybe bus' are different from auto but I think both used high quality stuff.
I would disagree John that factory is "the best". Depending on the age of the bus it probably an enamel paint. If so it may lift around the edges sometimes when applying Urethane primer but can be worked with.
Keep in mind that the work I have done was on either classic cars or motorcycles and some newer cars. I prefered to take things down to the metal to evaluate any previous body work, bondo, etc.. I have never touched a bus but would assume that all paint used was the same in the auto industry. I would probably not try to take the bus down to metal. Just as John said take it down slightly to give a good bonding surface.
When it comes to primers the reason I mentioned the MAXX FILL is that it fills very good. It does make for more work but I think gives you a better finished product. Like I said I am used to trying to make things perfect and as arrow straight on the old classics. A good primer/sealer will work fine as well. In speaking of aluminum I have not done any painting on aluminum but believe what you need to use is a Zinc Chromate; this has corrosion inhibiting properties to retard the corrosion process and gives a better bite for the primer as it has an etching effect I believe. The lighter the primer color the easier it usually is to cover.
There are numerous ways you can approach this and I am sure Johns way would work as well as mine. There are many different opinions in painting products as well depending on the shop you talk to. Some like PPG, some like SW, and some like House of Color for really custom stuff.
As for painting outside I have done it many times. As John said as well, make sure the area around what you are painting is sprayed down with water. Preferably do it in the early part of the morning while the dew is still fresh and it should be fine and make sure it is very calm (no wind at all). Also depends on how bad bugs are in your area. I have had to cut several bugs legs off after they got stuck in the paint ::)
John you have good points as well.
Bryan
John,
I was not saying there never was some sort of additive someone promoted. I nor the man that owns the paint store has ever heard of it as Uv protectants have been in the pigments for some time. He has been painting since the 60's. Maybe it was "Snake Oil", LOL :D ;D And thats what he was double billing for. ;D
Bryan
Bryan,
Maybe it was "Snake Oil", LOL And that's what he was double billing forMaybe it was "Snake Oil", LOL And that's what he was double billing for
My point exactly. He was a bad dude deep down inside and he hurt a lot of people as I finally became aware. One of his tricks was to add a little "BLACK" to the product, regardless of its tint/color. to make it unique and NOT what the can code said. If you tried to repair a spot ad used the code you got a light spot unmatch. He did that for his own amusement. He did worse to people he knew and I am sure I don't have the full story. Well, I did my part for the S Cal consumer cause his ever getting another licence was remote.
Zinc Chromate is the absolute best. The Navy paints their airframes with the stuff and it holds up for tens of years till the plane dies of old age. Nothing better that I have ever heard of. Big problem with that stuff, however. It is lethal to the sprayer in some circumstances and I was told it outgass' and has to stay in the booth for a while and the blowers MUST stay on. Usually they are turned off at the finish of application to avoid dust introduction when the doors are opened to exit and then enter again. This all started down in Kalifornia and you darn well know what they call those people. "More cancer free than other places in the country" is one of the things those nuts are called. I don't think you can even purchase it. The booth must be equipped with a certified fresh air supply that operates independent of other circuits...fuzzy on that code but picked up on conversations around the Airframe repair and rebuilding facility and I wasn't there much. Beside, sailors lie.
it may lift around the edges
Can't say that too loud or often. Primer sealer. Talk to the vendor AND some "Shooters". Did you know that there are people in your community that "only" shoot paint? The shops use them when they have a really special high dollar job. Now those guys know what is what between the products and you should consider having one of them shoot your bus when the time comes.
Bryan,
I knew you were cut from the custom cloth when I read "high body primer". I used that stuff on parts of my Z when I had it painted. Misted the primer with black spray paint and then "blocked" the section to perfection. Needed shot three times with primer before it was flat and ready for sealer. Not the norm and yes, I was anal about it too....for that car. The things we will do for Baby, right?
Thank you for your professional opinions and for being concerned about "feelings". Lots of false impressions can be made in this "flat" medium. Hope to hear from you often and long..you are paying it forward.
Good luck and best wishes,
John
John,Thanks for the compliment but I am not sure I would take my opinion as the "horses mouth" :o. Maybe a little more experience in this area than some but it is what has worked for me. Your experience can be of benefit as much as mine to someone that does not know where to start.
Unfortunately most of us have dealt with crooks of that nature at some point in life >:( But what do you do? Learn your lesson and move on.
I have never used the Zinc Chromate but did read about it and have been around conversations regarding its uses. Maybe if you were to use it outside and still use a good respirator it would be OK. But I again have never used it and would be best to talk to someone who had about dangers of use.
You can definitely get a nice finish with the "high body primers". And doing what you did with black spray paint or red will help accentuate areas that need additional work (for those that did not know why he was spraying black paint over the primer to sand again).
The black may be a little better than red simply because the darker the color the more imperfections become visible to try to make for a perfect as possible repair. They do sell a product just for this but it is more expensive than just spraying some spray can paint. Although it sands off a little easier.
QuoteThank you for your professional opinions and for being concerned about "feelings". Lots of false impressions can be made in this "flat" medium.
I think each of us have something we can share based upon our experiences. To NOT take into consideration someone elses opinion on a particular subject that they have knowledge on as well is short sighted. What works for some may not work for everyone. But at least it is another point of view that may not have been considered by the other. I have been on this board for several months now and there are some pretty smart cookies here ;D with years of experience, which is why I check to see whats going on about every day. I know I have learned allot and feel I have had the crash course on busses and their systems. I appreciate the help I get from everyone involved and when I feel I am knowledgeable enough on a subject I will chime in if I think I can help. Or maybe give someone a hard time. But always in fun ;D. It is a flat medium and is tough to read someones body language through the internet, unless we had live video cam's, LOL!
Take Care John. I look forward to more discussions in the future ;D
Crown, I hope this gets you going.
Bryan
john and bryan very helpfull imfo i need to go to paint store and learn more before i jump in
would it be ok when the time comes to paint to e mail you if i run in to trouble or need more advice
thanks crown
Crown,
That would be fine. Happy to help any way I can. A knowledgeable guy at a paint store should be able to give good advice. Most do paint work on there own as well. There are always new products becoming available that John or I may not be aware of.
Good luck,
Bryan
All very good advice.
I just want to add from my own experience. I used single stage when I painted our coach, wrong move. Like has been said, you could have runs, shoot too dry and a host of other issues. If you have lots of experience shooting that's another issue. If not use BC/CC, much easier to use and get rid of mistakes. I'm no painter, so you are getting good advice, just thoughts from my own failed work on a huge canvas. One more thing, paint it in stages, one side at a time. It's a lot of work no matter how you look at it. ;)
Have fun and let us know how it turned out.
Paul
hi paul the deal i got was for 14 1/2 gallons of red single stage paint for $ 185.oo so thats what i will be using
hopeing for the best if there is a screw up i got a lot of paint to fix it thanks and will keep all up to date
Use a good quality brush lol
cody what type of brush would you use my guess a 6 '' wide one. ha
What kind of gun do you have? I bought a Devilbiss gun and could not get it to work right, went to Harbor Frieght and bought two cheap guns for 15 bucks each and they worked like a charm. I took the Devilbiss to a painter friend of mine and he didn't have any luck either, must have been a lemon.
Practice, practice and more practice to get it right! ;)
Have fun! ;D
Crown, it's an old cabinet makers phrase, it means preparation is the key, the finished product is the result of each step being done just right, take your time and pay attention to each little detail and don't listen to those that say you can't do it, of course it's going to be hard, all new stuff is hard the first time but careful research, asking questions and doing your homework with each step and it'll turn out to be a job you can take pride in. I probably should have said 'break a leg' lol.
cody was just joking about brush john have a good day
Laugh all you want at the suggestion to use a "brush". We had our first child in Berlin Germany in 63. I bought a used chest of drawers/cabinet to use as a changing table/baby stuff chest and set about sanding and filling little imperfections. I was going to finish the thing with spray cans but my brother-in-law, a painter, told me to buy "DuPont" enamel and use the brush he gave me. That thing came out looking like it had been dipped in paint at an auto factory. Flawless and not a single brush stroke anywhere. I have never seen a product like that in this country...ever. And any credit to the painter can be disregarded.
In San Diego, next to the beach, in an RV camp ground, I talked to a guy about having my S&S painted. He pointed out that he had painted his Class C with a roller using Bath and Kitchen water base of the highest quality. It was semi gloss and from ten feet away it was "very nice". Up close and looking hard you could see roller marks but mostly it had laid out flat. Get a hold of "Ripley" was my advice.
I had one problem with that primer sealer that cost me some time and was avoidable: Remember that stuff about needing Primer sealer to keep the new paint and its solvents away from the old paint to prevent crinkling? Well, the primer sealer itself will crinkle the paint itself at the spots where the old was sanded clear thru. I had to resand and remask an entire panel because of that. At those points/areas you need to dry spray the sealer a few times and let it dry and finally apply the proper final coat of smooth(wet) sealer. It isn't the part about having to wait for the crinkled primer sealer to dry hard enuff to sand or the sanding with 320 wet or the remasking or the reshooting with primer sealer or the 3 hour set back or having to deal with that new dust....it's not that that ticks you off. Naw, it's the PRINCIPLE of the thing. :D :D :D
Talk long and listen hard to the guy at the painter's supply store.
I have used that Harbor Freight gun and it worked well for me, also. A bad Devillbus is a fluke and they will replace any mfr defect with apologies.
Have fun,
John
John
I agree on not laughing at the brush. Awlgrip is routinely painted with a brush on big yachts where they have emission laws. they roll it on then come back and brush it with a certain hair brush and they come out flawless when done right
steve
now that i read about painting with a brush it just reminded me of when i was a kid about 16 or 17 and someone
gave me a 50 buick fastback and i think it was my grandfater who gave me this old can of paint the can said brush
on a new finish to your car and i did looked good
In 50+ years of spraying paint, I have never found an autobody supplier who wouldn't answer questions, but I have found several who answered them wrong. Paint is changing very quickly (it will be water based by 2020) and involves some very exotic resins and other chemicals. Every manufacturer offers written information on their product. Get it, read it, and then ask questions. The best source of accurate information is usually the regional salesman; he has to know why his product is better (or worse) than everyone else's, and he won't base his answer about epoxy finishes on his experience at squirting nitrocellulose lacquer back in his prime in 1950. Painting a bus is a big job; you don't want to do it twice.
i think you need an experienced brush painter who has the proper hair thickness brush. Bright Red with bright green leaves.
Fran and I can get that bus painted in just less than 2 months if you just send tickets to get us out of winter here in central Florida!
Can we put the Eagle on a train and zip right down there, John?
Our ability to purchase auto paints without a booth that meets proper OSHA standards to paint in might be changing sooner than we think.
A friend of mine owns a auto detail shop in SW Missouri. He has always purchased his painting supplies from Oreilly Auto Parts. One of the managers came to his shop last week asking him to fill out a compliance form and that if he did not they would no longer be able to sell paint to him. He said the guy told him everyone that is not up to standard with a booth etc.. has a year grace period to do so. He does not have a booth rather a 80' x 100' shop he does everything in.
Just thought I would mention this to anyone that is a do it yourselfer. It may be different in other areas but I would assume something like this is OSHA and has been coming for a long time now. Don't just take my word check it out. Like I said this was passed on to me by someone that buys allot more paint than me.
So if your going to paint your own bus you might ought to get-r-done ;D ;D
Bryan
If you want to know what is coming to you local???? then look to Kalifornia. California leads the way and breaks the trail for the nation. Feel any way you wish, personally.
If you want to know what Kalifornia "will" be doing??? look to what is being discussed and decided in academia. There are professional/scientific journals on every nuance of a subject that you can imagine and the info within those pages outline the future thrusts with a given field. You needn't sit even a minute in a boring classroom listening to some "know nothing" professor that never even "runned" a business or "earn't" a honest nickel.
I should think that a HUGE building with an air volume the size of a small county should dilute the fumes to a tolerable/safe level. After all, the fumes are being expelled into the open air outside the booth..right? I mean, right? Actually I don't know if the modern booth has chem filters in it and I am lost as to what "safe" levels of concentration might be let alone how to measure them. I do know that some regs are written to simplify enforcement or even make it remotely possible and, in almost all cases, financially feasible within the tax base. I do know that the exceptions dramatically increases the cost of enforcement and it is enforcement that gets cut first so they tend to keep it simple at the outset. Soon there will be political pushes to "get the Gummint outta our bidness" so we can make a cheaper product and, this is my favorite part, "pass the savings along to the consumer." Getting back to the original subject: When I painted inside a building I shut down all the ventilation fans and closed all the doors and windows tight. You know? The absolute most important thing was D U S T. It wasn't a paint booth for krimeny sakes. And none of the paints back then contained cyanide or other even more interesting chemicals.
Thanks for the heads up Bryan and know as fact that if I were going to paint a bus I would be taking your advice and getting to it pronto. Not pick'n on ya here. Honest!
That's enuf!
John
Crown,
What pigments are you going to mix in? Post a pic of the final color so all can see how you make lemonaid from 14 gallons of lemons. You da man with da VISION. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks,
John
tom & fran how are you doing we missed not seeing you this year at bussin 10 your welcome to come vist
it was cold hear this morning low 70 keep in touch john / lidia & princesa
ok to answer a few ? i went and talked to the paint shop first i found out i need wash primmer for all bare alum.
and you need to paint or prime in under 1 hour very costly but good news at the warehouse were i got the paint
thay had wash primmer so i scored another deal 2 i found out sherwin williams has there office / warehouse 20
min. drive from my house so i am going over to talk to there teck guys next week. my paint was imported from
the usa ( better ) most sherwin williams paint comes from mexico 3 for those that dont known or remember i
am from new jersey ( hi nick ) but have lived most of my live in costa rica the bus will be comming to the usa
and will stay there ( someware ) as we want to tour the usa and meet as many of you as we can and go to many
rallys i will need to fly home every 3 months for docters and meds thanks john & lidia