Hello everybody,
Hope everyone enjoyed the holidays, the question that I have, does anyone have any pictures that can be posted of there
pro heat installation? I have 2 of the XL-45's and would like to use them. One for the engine, one for heating the domestic
water.
Steve 5B.....
Hi Steve,
It seems that you would only need 1 of your proheats to do the job you discribed. Unless you also ment to
heat the inside of your bus.? With just domestic and engine loops, you can install a simple zone valve to switch
from either engine or H20. I will see if I have some layout diagrams at my shop tommorow for you.
Nick-
Hi Nick,
That would be GREAT...... looking forward to them.
Steve 5B......
Steve why would you want 2 of those fuel sucking units in one bus ?
good luck
Luvrbus,
How much fuel do they use, I haven't a clue?
Steve 5B.....
2 prints I found.
.3 gallons of diesel per hr.
But they don't run a full Hr at a time. ;)
Thanks Eddie..
The first pic is what I have at my shop but, it does not show 3/4" supply from the manifolds to the heater..
Nick-
Steve what I did with my webasto was add a simple loop that went to "a side arm heat exchanger" this heat exchanger heats the water inside the domestic water heater without any risk of cross contamination.
One other benifit is you can heat your potable water while driving down the road.
These side arm heat exchangers are common in the Outside boiler world.
One OWB boiler company has a very good illustrations of how it works.
Google Central boilers. Or try www.centralboiler.com (http://www.centralboiler.com)
corrected the link sorry
The first diagram shows all the water flowing through the Force 10 water heater. Wouldn't the water in the heater get dangerously hot? I suppose one could install a tempering valve on the outlet from the heater.
I haven't decided exactly how I will deal with heating my domestic water. I have a Force 10 water heater with the heat exchanger. I want to be able to heat domestic water in the summer when I don't need heat. I prefer not to run the generator just for hot water.
The aqua hots/ hydro hots do indeed have such a tempering valve to prevent you from cooking yourself with the hot water.
YES! ABSOLUTELY INSTALL A TEMPERING VALVE valve if you are messing with these busnut engineered systems!
If scavenging the heat from the engine, the hot water will be upwards of 180 degrees, the coolant furnaces typically run at 160 degrees.
Both of those temps will SCALD, if you get a delivery hiccup at your tap, or someone unwittingly puts their hands under the hot tap.
For comparison to home, if you didn't know, many utilities advocate setting the home hot water heater at 120 degrees, that temp, combined with water saving fixtures, makes it much more difficult to harm yourself.
Now, from a design standpoint, for the busnut, the really hot water IS desirable in the tank, as it will let your tank "last longer", since it will take a little more cold replacement water to finally dilute the temp down to not being hot anymore.
But, design the delivery system to be SAFE/IDIOT PROOF for you, the kids, and your guests.
In whichever order applies to your situation?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
VERY good points, Buswarrior.
Maybe I missed it somewhere but if you are running that kind of heated water, my guess is that you should run copper. Like I said, I might have missed that, but wouldn't that make sense?
Chaz
(Happy New Year Steve! )
The to and from from the engine is standard heater hose. There is about 12 inches of copper plumbed out of the heating unit for the hot potable water, then it transitions to PEX. I know, I'm a little sketchy about the plastic and the hot temp too, but it's been in place for 15 yrs with no ill effects so far.
Tempering valves are expensive but they are mandatory. I could not see anyone even considering not having one in place.
Anti scald valves are another name for the same thing.
The benefits of a combined system out way the cost of the valves. IMHO
After driving all day and the water in the hot water tank will easily be 180* But you can also run your kick heaters without firing up the webasto for quite awhile on the residual heat in the loop.
Now this is helpful if you are driving from warm to cold parts of the country or cold areas to cold areas.
I can shut valves to just to circulate thru the engine. or thru my heaters or the hot water loop or any combo.
Because my water heater is electric I don't need to plug in or run generator to optain hot water.