BCM Community

Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: crown on January 03, 2010, 06:29:15 AM

Title: heat pump a/c
Post by: crown on January 03, 2010, 06:29:15 AM
 hi i bought two heat pump a/c a while back  do these give off heat also and if so will they warm up the bus ?
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: robertglines1 on January 03, 2010, 06:30:25 AM
roof top?
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: crown on January 03, 2010, 06:32:00 AM
yes roof top
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: buswarrior on January 03, 2010, 06:32:42 AM
If they are roof tops, they'll take the chill off on a cool summer evening.

If you plan to camp in anything heading towards the freezing mark from summer's evening, you'll need another way to stay warm.

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: TomC on January 03, 2010, 06:33:29 AM
Heat pump A/C will give off very close to the same amount of heat as it does cooling.  But-they only work down into the 40's, where a normal heating coil would have to be used.  For instance, a 13,500btu cooling A/C will put out about 12,000btu of heating on reverse cycle, but only about 5,200btu on resistance heating.  Good Luck, TomC
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on January 03, 2010, 06:40:47 AM
Hi Crown,

BW & Tom are correct!

Just remember, if you will be in temps that near zero often, two thousand BTU's per foot will keep you warm....

Anything less, you'll need your sleeping bag!

Happy New Year
Nick-
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: crown on January 03, 2010, 06:54:39 AM
hi nick i have 2 heat pumps & 2 ducted roof top all low profile any way i could say make them in to a basement type
unit i known a/c guys and a guy with a metal break thanks
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on January 03, 2010, 09:20:17 AM
Hi Crown,

If you still live in Costa Rica, do you even need heat??

i have 2 heat pumps & 2 ducted roof top all low profile any way i could say make them in to a basement type

Now why would you want to make your life so hard by doing that? Lol

It would take alot of design changes to accomplish proper air discharge out of them...

The best way to heat your coach is either, LP unit, Webasto, or Proheats.... Way more BTU's..

Good Luck
Nick-
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: belfert on January 03, 2010, 09:39:43 AM
Quote from: Nick Badame Refrig. Co. on January 03, 2010, 06:40:47 AM
Just remember, if you will be in temps that near zero often, two thousand BTU's per foot will keep you warm....

Wouldn't that mean 80,000 BTUs for a 40 foot bus?  It seems high to me.
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: cody on January 03, 2010, 09:52:24 AM
I have 2 carrier 15K BTU heat pumps, they work well down to about 35F, afte that they loose ground quickly. one of the biggest factors in any heating situation is cold air infiltration and insulation, the best of heaters seem to suffer when they have to fight the incoming drafts.
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: dbenck on January 03, 2010, 10:59:23 AM
I have 2" of spray foam on the walls, 5" on the ceiling with double insulated windows in a MC-9
I can hold 70 Deg. F in -20 with 7.5 KW of electric heat running off the generator or shore power.
7.5 KW = around 26,000 Btu's. I have a 1500 Btu toe kick heater in the step at the door also.
Coach is all electric...no problems in 4 years..so far !

David Benck
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: belfert on January 03, 2010, 03:49:50 PM
I must have too much glass as I have spray foam and can't maintain any heat with as few BTUs as some of you guys.  My biggest hinderance might be trying to start out with the bus at or below 32 degrees.

The side windows in my living room are double pane, but they are a total of over 50 square feet of glass.  I also have about 50 square feet of single plane windshield.  I don't have any sort of covers for any of the windows or the windshield.
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on January 03, 2010, 07:18:05 PM
Quote from: belfert on January 03, 2010, 09:39:43 AM
Quote from: Nick Badame Refrig. Co. on January 03, 2010, 06:40:47 AM
Just remember, if you will be in temps that near zero often, two thousand BTU's per foot will keep you warm....

Wouldn't that mean 80,000 BTUs for a 40 foot bus?  It seems high to me.

Hi Brian,

2000 btu's per ft is my new rule after one of my good customers couldn't keep up with his 45,000 btu Proheat.
I installed an 80,000 btu webasto in his 45' Prevo 2 months ago and since then the bus has been to Minnasota
early December and is returning as we speak from Montreal. The webasto 2020 has kept his coach at 72 deg's
on both trips. Now, we also have an engine loop and hydronic fan coils in 2 bays along with 3 hydronic heat ex-
changers inside the coach. He is a happy camper now... Well, except for his brake lines freezing up thursday..

My Proheat 45,000 btu unit in my bus is bearly keeping my bus at 68. [It's in the low 20's here in N.J.]
This is why I am changing my whole system to an 80,000 btu Webasto now.. Complete with engine loop and
bay hydro fan units. I will be headding to Indy in 3 weeks for a Ravens game if they make it that far.. and I
WILL BE WARM!!

Dave, you have a special bus! Lol
Nick-
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on January 03, 2010, 08:00:24 PM
Ok Guy's,

I just did a load calculation on my bus for the temps I'm expierencing here in N.J. This is what I came up with..

Givin the layered fiberglass insulation and FBBF reflective layers that I have, along with my duel pane windows,

single pane windshield, and very cold step well, I have a heat loss of 44%. Pretty bad compaired to a home...

My required BTU's to maintain 72 degrees is 64,000! That is without engine or bay loops... [R value of 5.4]

Here is how to calculate your bus! I also included insulation values of foam insulation below.

Icynene® Foam-sprayed insulation has an "R" value 3.6 per inch.


Heat Loss using "R" values:
(Bus Heat Loss in BTU's per hour) =
[(Bus Total Surface Area in sq.ft.) / (Surface Area "R" value)] x (Temperature Difference)

Temperature Difference = the difference in temperature in deg F. on the two sides of the bus surface,

typically indoors and outdoors.

Surface Area "R" value = the "R" value of the surface area being evaluated (say an insulated wall).

Heat Loss using "U" values:
(Bus Heat Loss in BTU's per hour) U = 1/R, - or in other words -
(Bus Total Surface Area in sq.ft.) x (Surface Area "U" value) x (Temperature Difference)


More considerations when measuring home energy use or heat loss
But there's more work to do for a complete answer to your bus heat loss. We need to make up a simple

table which will contain the total surface area of each type of material (since each will have it's

own "R" value) and then plug in the area's "R" value and the temperature difference. Usually we assume

the same temperature difference for all of the areas of the bus though this might be a simplification

since that may not be exactly true.


How to include the effect of wind on home energy use or heat loss
We're also missing, from this simple calculation, the effects of wind on a bus's heat loss, though a

more sophisticated version of this approach might simply adjust the temperature difference to include

the wind factor. For example, you could use a wind/temperature chart to derive the effective outdoor

temperature when it's also windy. In cold conditions, adding a wind velocity will lower the effective

outdoor temperature and thus it will increase the temperature difference across the bus wall. Use any

"wind chill factor" chart for this data. Still more sophistication of measures of heat loss are possible

by adding the effects of moisture on heat loss from a surface, but while this is important for a (sweaty)

human in cold conditions it is generally ignored when considering your bus heat loss.


Using a spreadsheet to accurately calculate building heat loss or heat gain
This is a perfect application for an Excel or similar spread sheet, listing each building surface type

(wall, window, door), it's R, K, or U value, and its total area. Adding temperature difference across

these surfaces permits a calculation of the heat loss (or gain) through each surface type. These are

simply added together to represent the entire building's heat loss or gain.


Heat loss vs. heat gain in buildings: applying the simple laws of thermodynamics
You may have noticed we keep talking about heat loss and then we add "or heat gain" in the same sentences

or headings. That's because heat loss analysis works just fine for both bus heating and bus cooling. The

only differences between looking at heat loss and heat gain for a bus are the direction of heat flow and

the fact that we may be using different equipment with different equipment efficiencies (a heating furnace

or boiler versus an air conditioner).

If we're in a heating climate and are in the heating season, heat will flow from the bus interior to the

outdoors.

Nick-
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: buswarrior on January 03, 2010, 08:02:22 PM
Oh, ok.

It all depends on whether the BTU's can be delivered to the interior completely, or only partially.

Electric heaters, all the BTU's will be delivered to the interior, no where for any of it to go.

The coolant furnaces/boilers may inhale fuel for certain BTU ratings, but they are dependent on the installed radiator/fan systems to shed the BTU's to the interior, and have losses to the exterior in exhaust heat.

Same for a propane furnace, some heat overboard in the exhaust.

So, it still needs a bunch of thinking, we can't just throw BTU numbers around?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: Nick Badame Refrig/ACC on January 03, 2010, 08:10:24 PM
Quote from: buswarrior on January 03, 2010, 08:02:22 PM
Oh, ok.

It all depends on whether the BTU's can be delivered to the interior completely, or only partially.

Electric heaters, all the BTU's will be delivered to the interior, no where for any of it to go.

The coolant furnaces/boilers may inhale fuel for certain BTU ratings, but they are dependent on the installed radiator/fan systems to shed the BTU's to the interior, and have losses to the exterior in exhaust heat.

Same for a propane furnace, some heat overboard in the exhaust.

So, it still needs a bunch of thinking, we can't just throw BTU numbers around?

happy coaching!
buswarrior



Good point about efficencies of heat sources!! I forgot to mention BW. Thanks!

Nick-
Title: Re: heat pump a/c
Post by: buswarrior on January 03, 2010, 08:39:37 PM
Just for fun and education,

I've been holding the house steady at 70 degrees using 7 x 1500 watt cheapy electric heaters for the last few days. Furnace fan and ceiling fans running to circulate the air, 2 of the 7 have temp controls and cut in and out periodically, the other 5 running flat out..

So, at approximately 5k BTU each, under 35 000 BTU, plus the heat shedding of a refrigerator, a freezer, 2 computers, and 4 humans and 2 dogs. Coffee pot has the tank of water, so there's a bit of heat there even when the burner is off, and the television, on or off, makes a bit of warmth. So, that might account for as much as 20K BTU more heating?

with 10 degrees outside with a breeze blowing to -8 windchill.
2 story, plus basement, somewhere under 1800 sq feet on the 2 floors, lots of window and french doors at the back.

Makes me wonder what economies are available in the hotrod furnace in the basement that has a 100K rating, but then, some of that is going up the chimney, and drafting cold air into the house, so maybe a break even is in here someplace?

I'm off to where the coach is parked tomorrow for a few days and will run some similar winter condition testing.

Gotta use this cold weather for something good!

happy coaching!
buswarrior