I want to redesign the driver's heat and defrost heat. (These operate off the engine.) Any tips for this?
The current heating system is a big mess in part because the original system had a heating coil in the A/C system plus radiators all along the sides of the bus. Dina and MCI also issued a number of engineering changes to the system. There are hoses and tees and solenoids all over the place that are no longer needed. I would like to make a straight run to the driver's heat and defroster without all the complexity. Dina even ran a heater hose off the place in the Series 60 where the block heater should go. I know I need some sort of bypass/check valve in case the heat is turned off.
I would consider removing the driver's heat since I plan to place a heater core from my Proheat up by the driver. That would leave only the defrost.
I have attached a PDF showing the mess the original heating system is.
for what its worth ...on my 89 prevost there is a pump that pumps to the front heater/defroster compartment.I put a manual switch with a teltale light to pump to front system..also put a shut of solenoid to same switch to stop flow when no heat is needed..not automatic...but used existing parts and works well.
The driver's heat system in my 5a is a coil and 2 blowers. There is a direct hose going back to the engine to serve the coil. There is a simple on/off manual valve (probably a ball valve) by the drivers left leg to supply the water. Pretty basic, but it does work.
It is simple like Lin said 2 hoses from the engine to front with a ball valve or a electric controlled sprinkler valve will work for full flow and you can buy manual control for tempature at any auto parts.
? for you why separate the defroster from the heater most all of us have hydronic heat tied to the defrosters does the Dina have different exchangers for heat and defroster.
A booster pump like the one Robert has is a good investment
good luck
Yes, the driver's heat and defroster are seperate exchangers. If I hooked up only the defroster I would still hook it to the engine heat unless it becomes too much of an issue to run the lines back to the engine. There are times I might want defrost heat when I don't have the Proheat running.
I do have a booster pump, but it isn't actually hooked up right now because all the controls got ripped out for it.
Brian,
I see you suggested removing the driver's seat. I would keep that option on your coach, it will make driving more comfortable.
I do know that you can run a direct line from the engine to the driver's heater coil, and you could also install a thermostatically controlled solenoid valve to turn the core's water flow off and on, if that would improve your thermal desires.
You would also place a manual valve in the line, to shut the system completely off in warm weather.
Enjoy the winter trips.
Kinda hard to drive without a driver's seat. ;)
I am thinking about disconnecting the driver's heat because I am installing a heat exchanger off the Proheat just for the driver's area. It would simplify things to only hook up the defroster. The driver's heat doesn't really work very well at all right now, but maybe that is because the booster pump is not hooked up. The defrost heat works great however. The driver needs to wear a jacket even with full blast heat whern it gets below about 40 degrees outside.
I figure if it is cold enough to need heat that the Proheat will be on to warm the rest of the bus.
Brian, I can run my defroster off the engine heat or the hydro heat it is a good feature to have it that way no icey windshields in the mornings
good luck
Belfert,
I would at least try to use as much of the original design as I could. I would want the thermo controlled temp. ON?OFF works but the auto setting is so much nicer. I think I would swap out failed components for more common items but the "design" might work. You could also us a new design using currently available stuff. Is it possible for you to send me a copy of the original design?
Thanks,
John
Quote from: JohnEd on December 05, 2009, 05:12:26 PM
I would at least try to use as much of the original design as I could. I would want the thermo controlled temp. ON?OFF works but the auto setting is so much nicer. I think I would swap out failed components for more common items but the "design" might work. You could also us a new design using currently available stuff. Is it possible for you to send me a copy of the original design?
I can see if the service manual has a diagram, but I don't have a scanner. The PDF I attached shows parts of it. I could send you the whole PDF @$# I only attached one page due to size restrictions.
Any thermostatic control of the original heating is gone. The entire control board for the heating/cooling system was removed. I don't believe the defroster ever had any temperature control. The driver's heat is controlled by a manual valve next to the driver's seat.
Brian, never heard of a PDF _ _ _ ??? ::) ;D
Quote from: ruthi on December 05, 2009, 05:50:33 PM
Brian, never heard of a PDF _ _ _ ??? ::) ;D
I am sure you have viewed a PDF before. Adobe Acrobat Reader is used to view PDFs. I would bet yoou have it installed on your computer.
Brian, I dont know how to insert a quote, or I would, but.......Go back and read your reply to John Ed about sending the whole pdf, and you will see your mistype. I was making a joke of it, sorry, couldnt resist. ;D Have a good night. Ruthi
When you get around to thinking about AC, Welch Industries ( you will have to google to find them) will design a compressor, auto type, and condenser coil to work with your coach evaporator coil for the driver. This way the driver will have AC blowing on him going down the road. I know someone that has done this and he said it worked good. When I removed my coach AC, I crimped and seal the copper gas tubing with solder.
Art