After Turbo installation in a 8v92TA how important is it to have a run in period? Is the initial 100 miles like in the old days you had to have a break in time?
Thanks
John
Let Kevin answer you on that one I never heard of it.
I just do a good pre lube and go maybe I doing it wrong but I do a fast idle for a few minutes checking for leaks
FWIW when I replaced the ones on my equipment and trucks it was full bore and back to work
good luck
There is no such thing as break in time on any heavy duty Diesel-it's just not possible. I'll sell a new truck, and the next day the customer is pulling the Grapevine with 80,000lbs. On a Diesel engine, the only thing you have to watch for is oil consumption in the first 30,000 miles or so. Then after that, the engine should not use more then 1 gallon for an oil change. Believe it or not, the new Detroit DD13 and DD15 have suggested oil changes for over the road application of 50,000 miles- 60,000 miles for the DD16! On my Caterpillar 3406B mechanical, I determined from oil analysis that 12,000 miles was optimum-my how technology marches on. I also got 5.4-5.8 mpg on my truck-the new 2011 trucks with 2010 engines are expected to get around 8mpg-big jump.
Since there is no way to control the turbocharger, and there is no break in time-the only suggestion is when warming up the engine, build up the air pressure to maximum, then go ahead and drive easily until the temp gauge is up at normal operating temp. It is a waste of fuel to warm up the engine to full operating temperature on fast idle while still sitting. Good Luck, TomC
Tom,
Is there any reason to add oil to the Turbo bearings before I attach the top inlet oil line?
John
John, that is a pre lube leave the plug in the bottom and fill it from the top with oil I use a synthetic oil and spin the turbo a few times then remove the plug and install the turbo
good luck
If one opens up a brand new turbocharger box from Borg Warner you will find a nice little document giving one instructions.
As Tom mentioned if you were to buy a brand new truck you could hop in the cab and drive it away.. What he has failed to mention was that each of these engines made a quick stop to the engine dyno. Coolant and conditioned/filtered oil was fed to these engines and turbocharger functions were monitored. The engine was run on the dyno.. The turbocharger along with that engine was run for a period of controlled "time" in a controlled envionment..
Likewise, if one was to visit there CAT equipment dealer or large DD dealer you could see a engine in there dyno cell getting broke in..
Similar situations occur. After one prelubes the turbocharger and upon mounting the turbocharger that there is no uneven or torn gasket material. Please purchase new gaskets from the dealer. These are high quality gaskets designed to be installed without sealant. What ever you do >>Don't use silicone for any of the surfaces. Make sure that your oil supply line is free from corrosion. Many manufactures require a new oil supply line or at least a quick service to the hot tank or industial dish washer. Often oil has coked up inside closest to the turbine housing. On your installation, this black carbon will make it's way into the turbocharger.. Failure will result..
Another quick note, do not do any housing clocking with the turbocharger installed. If you have to reclock a compressor housing>use a Sharpie to give you some reference "marks" and pull the turbo off the engine and place on a bench. Loosen the clamps>don't remove> and gently tap the housing over with a rubber mallet. It is critical to retighten the band clamp evenly.
Once installed, if possible try to get oil pressure to the turbocharger without cranking it over. If your turbochargers has suffered a major bearing failure I would recommend that you at last change your engine oil filters.. Oil is cheap, change that too if you want some peace of mind.
Note, you will meet older techs that will grab a vice-grip and clamp the turbine housing to keep the turbine wheel from spinning and start the engine.. At idle these turbochargers are turning 10,000 to 14,000 RPM's at low idle.. I have also seen hands minus a finger from a tech that wanted to stop the compressor wheel (It's amazing the stories one hears with turbo and new engine installs).. I do not recommend this practice. However if one can get the engine to prelube with the starter and no have the engine fire that would be great..
Once you have good oil pressure>check for leaks.. Idle the engine and bring it up to temperature. Once up to temp shut the engine off.. Let the engine cool for 30 to 45 minutes. Fire the engine again, and bring the engine up to temp. hit the high idle and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes. Check for leaks>oil and exhaust. Button things up and hit the road for a test drive. Do not boost the engine for the next 100 miles. The first 45 to 75 miles is crucial for getting the maximum miles in performance and service out of your turbocharger. Try to keep your foot out of the gas.. Gently get up to speed. It is better to run thru rush hour traffic (perfect break in conditions) vs cruising on the Hwy.
If you can stop at 25 miles or sooner, let the engine cool down for 2 minutes.. VERY CRITICAL.. 2 minutes shut the engine down and let things cool down. What we are trying to do is seat the turbine side sealing rings (hot side).. A wear pattern will form, similar to seating piston rings. Heat and proper thrust will seat the rings. If you cook the new seal you will alway have a turbocharger that pushes oil.
Rack up another 25 miles, and carry on to the 50 miles. On the last 50 you can apply a little more boost, but keep the power output down. We are trying to keep the EGT down... If you can stop in between that would be great.
These are just guidelines that I have used over the years.. It sucks to have to tear the turbo back off the engine and take it back in for repair.
If one can add a few early idle cycles in that is good also. If one can get only a minimal amout of miles, try to pull over for even 10 minutes... We want as many heat cycle built into the turbocharger that one can "possibly do and keep himself sane"
That goes to show you how much Cat dealers know Darr, Mustang,Wagner and Holt have installed turbos on my equipment and never told me to heat cycle one, just goes to show your are never to old to learn.
good luck
I just found out from my Cat dealer that when they exchange one for you it has already been cycled because as he put it you owners are not going to do it then he laughed.
Is that common for equipment dealers ? I can see his point that would cost money for a contractor to do that
good luck
Kevin,
Thank you for helping thoughout this problem and especially putting together the procedure on the correct way to start and run in the new Turbo in.
John