I"m stuck in Kettlemen city, CA. Was zipping up I 5 and pulled in to eat. Started bus she sounded ok, but like she was loading up for a second then the RPM would go back up. Went to pull out and have no throttle when not in Neutral. Changed Filters 2 wks ago (remember oil leak saga)... Any suggestions??? Can make 2 mph if not on hill.
Do you have an air throttle? If a fitting comes off thats what happens.
Quote from: K234039 on November 22, 2009, 07:37:35 PM
Do you have an air throttle? If a fitting comes off thats what happens.
wish it were so, have elecrtic throttle. Can redline her when she's in Neutral. But she builds R's a bit slower than usual.
Matt sounds like you have lost one of the 2 - 12 volt feeds for the ECM for the DDEC.
The best of my memories it is one for each side of the injection or something like that!
Call Don Fairchild @ six six one-391- 4520 he knows the area and your system better than I can remember! ;D
;D BK ;D
Sorry, Matt. I don't have any good ideas. I would assume that your throttle is electronically controlled. If so, I might guess a throttle sensor, but you have great throttle in neutral...so that don't figure.
Just for grins and giggles, do you have a spare set of filters you could spin on?
When you are in drive, does it just not throttle up? What happens? Do you go to step on the throttle, in Drive, and then it just RPM's high, but you don't move? Or do you not get any RPM's when you are in drive? I am just trying to figure out if it is a lack of RPM's, or if it could possibly be a brake issue.
God bless,
John
Quote from: Busted Knuckle on November 22, 2009, 07:54:33 PM
Matt sounds like you have lost one of the 2 - 12 volt feeds for the ECM for the DDEC.
The best of my memories it is one for each side of the injection or something like that!
Call Don Fairchild @ six six one-391- 4520 he knows the area and your system better than I can remember! ;D
;D BK ;D
No answer, I guess I'll give him a call in the AM ... I checked the fuses, they are happy and not corroded but I re-seated them just in case.
Thanks BK!
Quote from: John316 on November 22, 2009, 07:57:53 PM
Sorry, Matt. I don't have any good ideas. I would assume that your throttle is electronically controlled. If so, I might guess a throttle sensor, but you have great throttle in neutral...so that don't figure.
Just for grins and giggles, do you have a spare set of filters you could spin on?
When you are in drive, does it just not throttle up? What happens? Do you go to step on the throttle, in Drive, and then it just RPM's high, but you don't move? Or do you not get any RPM's when you are in drive? I am just trying to figure out if it is a lack of RPM's, or if it could possibly be a brake issue.
God bless,
John
John,
I get RPM in Neut, but it's slow gaining R's. When I put it in D, or any gear it just idles with my foot on the floor. Gotta love computers, eh?
Matt, Here is another number for Don, not sure if it's good though.
661......301......4648
Good Luck!
Check the plugs on your DDEC. There are several smaller plus of which one goes to the injectors on one side of the engine and another that ges to the injectors on the other side of the engine. I had one come loose and gave the loss of power that you have described. Just like bad fuel filters. We fixed it with tyewraps after the shop replaced two injectors. I hope your problem is that easy.
Art
I assume you are still asleep. Hope you have solved already but if you haven't gotten help yet;sures sounds electrical..check your batt voltage engine controls are very sensitive..what ever happened apparently happened over a short time span;loose connection,bad connection,bad batt(one bad batt can screw up every thing)good luck....your best bet is Don.
With cold engine, start engine and feel both exhaust manifolds. If one remains colder than the other, the injectors on that side are not injecting. Possible wiring issue on that side? Jack
Matt ck out thread hockey teams bus I pulled it to top for you...good luck
Matt, did the check engine light come on? If so, you can check the code via the ignition switch. I don't know the exact process, but it it something like turning on the switch a couple of times and then the check engine light will blink out the code. There are three numbers and you have to count the blinks for each digit. If you can do that, we can be of more help. Might also want to post your phone number.
TO ALL: you should all think about converting your fuel filter system to a Fuel Pro 382 (http://www.davcotec.com/products.html (http://www.davcotec.com/products.html)). Best investment a person can make. It is available at DDC dealers and most truck dealers. You replace both of your filters with this unit and you can SEE if you have a fuel filter problem. You can also see when you need to change filters rather than blindly replacing filters. It is also self priming (you need to pour fuel back in, but then it primes the engine if you need it). A bit pricey, but worth every penny when you have these sorts of problems. A very large number of commercial trucks use the system.
Jim
What codes are flashing sounds to me like a fuel problem.
DDEC 2 strokes the fuel pump gets weak and will cause a similar problem they have a different pump than the mechanical engines.
Go for new filters first and check for leaks
good luck
Far from expert here, but I would say that if you get absolutely no throttle response in gear, then it's probably computer/electrical. If you get even just a little reponse, then maybe a fuel problem.
I believe Don is out of town he was last week when I spoke with him .
Check that area for a Delany and Alph or Valley Power if you need repairs
Don is about 75 miles from you also
good luck
Do what Jack Suggested - feel both manifolds - ONE WHOLE BANK IS PROBALY NOT FIRING - this happened to Ace a while back
If you have a DDEC-II - Check for the INJECTOR - 12 volts on pins A&B and E&F of the CENTER 6 PIN CONNECTOR (there will be 3 small oval conectors in a row - a five pin on each end and a 6 pin in the center) - pins A&B are at one end of the connector and pins E&F are on the other) - the positive wire are almost always RED and 12 gauge - also check the 2 IGJECTOR ground wires THEY ARE THE 2 CENTER PINS (C&D) ON THAT SAME CONNECTOR -
IF you have a DDEC-III or IV - IIRC the SQUARE CONNECTOR IS INJECTOR POWER - CHECK FOR RED WIRES ON PINS A&C - ground would be B&D&E
Good luck
Sure sounds like one bank is not firing
If you lose INJECTOR POWER the engine will idle - but will not throttle up under load -- Losing injector power DOES NOT SET A DDEC ERROR CODE
There is also a TINY chance that somehow pin h2 (throttle inhibit comes active when in gear - this was a safety feature for brake interlocking
Call me if needed - home ...386..672..zero five seven one.... cell...386..299..two zero eight nine...
Great Info Guys...... I Feel Like I Learned Something Today ;D
Cant Wait To Find Out What The Problem Was..
Get That Welder, Welding :) 10-4
JOHN
WRONG POST....DA !!!!
One Down The List
MORE COFFEE Yea More Coffee
JOHN
Matt, always check your codes first that is what they are for easy to do( no harm no foul) and gives a starting point, all the older Dallas buses I have saw were upgraded to DDEC 111
good luck
Quote from: rv_safetyman on November 23, 2009, 05:21:18 AM
Matt, did the check engine light come on? If so, you can check the code via the ignition switch. I don't know the exact process, but it it something like turning on the switch a couple of times and then the check engine light will blink out the code. There are three numbers and you have to count the blinks for each digit. If you can do that, we can be of more help. Might also want to post your phone number.
TO ALL: you should all think about converting your fuel filter system to a Fuel Pro 382
Jim
Not sure about the codes, I'll fiddle around with it.
nine one six nine three four nine zero three zero I have one of those filters on my bus, gives me a very simple straight forward view of my filter status. I'm told they rock, but it came that way, no credit here. =)
Thanks,
Short version.
Yes Left side exhaust is ambient temp. Voltages at the battery box are 25.7 and 12.8.
I checked both small oval plugs to the DDEC, got fractional volts on some pins. Not sure what mod it is, thought it was a DDEC II, but I'm not sure of anything. I'll recheck after I thaw out a bit as it'sbrisk in this area, or I'm acclimated to Texas already. LoL
Tried flipping the on switch a few times no light pattern or beeps. Hmmmm
here pics of what a DDEC-II and a DDEC-III&IV look like
actually - ddec-II has only 5 connectors - all on one side
ddec-iii and iv have 3 connectors on each end
There will be a difference on the data port as well. The DDEC III will be a round 6 pin and the DDEC II will be a rectangular 12 pin. If it was converted, I am not sure they would have converted the data port. Pete gave you the pictures, so you can figure it out that way.
There is nothing you can do with the data port unless you have a specific reader. The four wires involved are + - battery and two data wires. Without a reader, the data on the multiplex wires can't be read and the voltages are meaningless for troubleshooting.
So, it looks like it is not fuel, since you can see the status of the filter.
You might try cycling the ECM by removing the ground wire on the battery and then reconnecting after a few seconds.
If you data port in the front is round, you could check the voltage pins "C" and "E". That should be at least 12 volts. Sometimes that voltage comes from a source other than the ECM, but it would still be worth checking. If it is the 12 pin, I can send you a drawing that Pete sent to me.
If it is a DDEC III ecm, I can give you the pins to check for the supply voltage.
Jim
I just got off the phone with Matt. He had checked the fuses and they all checked good, but He had some new one's so he changed them out anyway and everything is good to go. He is on the road and heading for sac.
Don
Okies,
Pete called and held my hand through checking the pinout on the DDEC. I had Zero volts on one side, so I replaced all three 15A fuses and she runs again. I had visually inspected the fuses, and re-seated them earlier but somehow one was being a brat. After they were replaced the old fuses all checked at .01ohms resistance. So you have got me, might need to replace the holder connections. I check that later.
Don called a couple minutes after I talked to Pete, and wasn't surprised it was the issue.
Thanks again SO MUCH for all you who replied and called, or answered the phone.
Coach net was pleasantly surprised when I called and canceled the expensive tow to Fresno.
Guess I'll make sure to carry plenty of extra fuses. =)
WooHoo! On to Sacramento.
That is great news.
I can't say enough about Pete. He is a great guy and a super DDEC expert. He has helped me a bunch with DDEC questions related to DDEC I and II.
He is just one of those quiet folks who sits in the background until someone needs help.
Thanks for being there PETE!!!
Jim
You cannot trust a visual check of a fuse, especially low current fuses. It can just be a microscopic fatigue crack in the fuse that you can't see.
Glad to see you are up and goin ;D
Truth be told
Bryce Gaston (busted Knuckels) and Jack Conrad had the right answers first
DD-6V92 with DDEC's are amazing - each BANK of injectors has a separate fuse - so losing one bank FUSE shuts down EVERY OTHER POWER STROKE - because the firing order alterates between left and right banks - the engine on idle with every other power stroke ACUALLY doesn't sound that bad - NO POWER - but doesn't sound bad - no skip no loop - just missing every other beat
Cool
Matt,
I've had fuses do the same thing. Checked out ok with an ohmmeter but things worked with new fuses.
My best guess is corrosion at the fuse block and when old fuses are pulled it wipes the corrosion.
In responce to a couple of emails I received. I did not help Matt with his problem, I called after Pete and others had help him. I was the last guy to the party. I am NOT taking any credit for helping Matt get going.
so go )(*&%^#$@#!@!@ your self's. and you know who you are.
Don
Removed
Matt,
My apologies. I posted to you that your problem was the same as the one ACE fought. His came on after opening a bat tray. That was the problem where I learned that the DDEC needs two 12 V lines, each fused, to run. Loosing a sing;e fuse will disable ONLY one bank of injectors. Surely I could not even begin to tell you what the pinout would be or where the fuses actually were located.....but I tried. Never looked at the topic to see if it was posted. Hope that is a lesson to all of us.
I do have some advice for you though when it comes to trouble shooting: If you have a really "poor", resistive connection in a fuse you will still read the full 12V if you OPEN the circuit to check the voltage. Once connected, a resistive circuit will drop the voltage to near zero volts. You need to check the voltage with the load connected. Mostly you have a circuit simply OPEN up and you get zero volts any which way. If it starts getting confusing you gotta start measuring. I think you fuse are good. Your fuse holders are probably corroded or the temper is out of the holder contact. Check the old fuses with an ohmmeter and if they are good you need new holders. I am making a point of this because if it is the holders you are set up for another "failure" during this trip. Hope I am not meddling. Good Luck,
John
Don, I understand your heartburn and see where the disconnect came from. I think he was trying to acknowledge some and not take credit away from anyone. You are pretty low on anybodies list of interlopers that would grab credit. Exactly the opposite, I would think. Be well.
John
This was not from Matt, it was form some people that do not post but lurk and think they need to take up for some that may have been slighted in some way.
I get some of the nasty emails when I have disagreed or had a different opinion then others on this and other boards. They never do this in public, only by PM. They are the COWARDS that try to make life hard ON the rest of us, at times I think they want the boards to go away. go figure
I don't proclaim to know every thing but am willing to help any where I can. When I don't know I don't give false info.
Please every body that is on this board this is NOT directed to you.
we have lost some good people because of this and it can't be stopped.
Sorry for my rant.
Don
Don, take with a grain of salt very seldom will I answer a email from this board the people I answer have my email address remember buddy every time you get p***** off that takes time off your life LOL and there is not much you an do about idiots
good luck
Don,
If you know who they are, hit the delete button and don't give them the opportunity to piss you off. That is nuts, shame on them! I know of a couple and I just ignore them, it's not worth my blood pressure! ;)
I am always amazed at the number of people on this board that are ready, willing and able to help others in times of need, be it in the form of advice, labour, support, or just conversation.
More specific to the problems in this case, I am sooooo glad my old 8V-71 mechanical has no electronics to baffle me. Some air, a little fuel, a dash of compression, maybe a wee snort of the magic elixer and it's gonna run.
When I went looking for a bus, I knew I wanted to stay away from the electronically managed engines. They may give better performance and a little better economy, but the thought of something as small as a failed fuse or bad ground connection leaving me (us) stranded scares me.
Glad you're mobile again!
Mark
Hi Guys,
I would like to learn from Matt's misfortune with two questions please. Does he have DDEC II or DDEC III and where are the fuses in question located for a DDEC II? Thanks.
I agree with Jim about Pete being helpful. He recently helped me by sending me the trouble shooting guide for my Jake brake. With that guide I was able to locate and repair the problem. A loose wire on the relay was all that was wrong. Thanks again Pete.
Sam 4106/MC 8
In the electronic age, it might be a good idea to get the high tech dielectric spray lube of your choice and use it like we rust proof cars up here: hose down everything on some regular basis.
Spray up the back and fronts of connectors, pins, holders, connections, EVERYTHING.
For example, I use Termin-8tr http://www.spectra-ssa.com/termin8tr.html (http://www.spectra-ssa.com/termin8tr.html)
Big Transit here has replaced dielectric grease with this stuff.
There are many others similar products out there.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
What a great TEAM you guys are. I know one guy that is pounding that California pavement whistling down the miles. I past him around Fort Stockton on Saturday evening. You can,t miss that coach.
Thank you everyone and have a great Thanksgiving.
John
PS We are in Corpus Christy Texas Walmart.
OK FWIW
I did nothing but tell Matt to look for where I have personally had problems! (8V92 will do the same thing as a 6V92 by the way, seen it on both! Also can't blame MCI or Setra even tough it has been one of each! LOL!)
Also Matt if it were me. I'd do 2 things!
1) go to Napa, or other good supply and get new weather tight inline fuse holders and replace them all 3 now!
(BTDT had repeated trouble until I did) It cost the guy with the MCI an 8.5 hr service call for me to drive 4 hrs to his bus, 15 min stop at a parts store on the way for quality fuse holders, 15 mins to change the holders, and 4 hrs home! (Hey I can't help it that he ignored my advice the first time it happened and I told him what the problem was. His reply was "Oh that's ok now I cleaned them up and they are good as new now!")
But when it broke down in AL, he said "Naw that ain't the problem, it's something else. I ain't had no trouble with those any more. So I need you to take some tools and go see if you can fix it! I'm half way there with a replacement bus now, I'll wait there to drive it home if we can fix it!" (boy was he pissed when I had those fuse holders with me, and they fixed it in 15 mins.!)
2) Do as Busarrior suggested! "get the high tech dielectric spray lube of your choice and use it like we rust proof cars up here: hose down everything on some regular basis.
Spray up the back and fronts of connectors, pins, holders, connections, EVERYTHING."
Now to set the record straight, Don would have called Matt sooner, but he called me to see about the 2 missed calls he had from me last night. And I kept him on the phone yacking to long! ;D
;D BK ;D
IM SOOOOO CONFUSED
DON are you mad at me ??? - I don't think I did anything to piss you off - in fact I'm sure of it
I just called Matt and helped guide him to the check the voltage for each injector bank - I also remembered from working with Ace that the fuses were wired directly to the battery and where in the MCI battery box
DON - I believe that many think that you are mad at me - Please post and tell them - IT JUST AIN"T SO
I have NO IDEA why any lurkers would see something wrong in all of us helping another Bus person ????
Pete RTS/Daytona ( sitting here - late at night - not understanding what the "F" is going on !!!!
Quote from: luvrbus on November 23, 2009, 05:14:17 PM
Don, take with a grain of salt very seldom will I answer a email from this board the people I answer have my email address remember buddy every time you get p***** off that takes time off your life LOL and there is not much you an do about idiots
good luck
Clifford,
Now I know why you haven't answered my PM's :o. I am on your ignore list, ;D :D ;D. I realized that I don't have your email address. Do you mind sharing?
Don, Don't worry about those yahoo's. There are some in every bunch. We all know that you help whenever possible. You still helped Matt, even though he was going. Sleep easy ;D.
Pete, Our posts just crossed. I don't know for sure, but here is what I am 99% sure happened. Matt got ahold of you first, and you helped him figure out what happened, and got him running. After that, Don calls Matt, and Matt is going just fine. Don mentions that same things, that you did to get Matt going, and Matt says "that is what worked (or something close to that). Then Don posts, and says that Matt is up and running.
This is where people get confused. Some lurkers on the board, see Don post, and thinks (very erroneously), that Don is posting and taking credit for getting Matt up and running. They then see fit to write Don some nasty PM's to "put him in his place." Don then get's tired of the PM's, and asks them to stop....
So I think that is what happened. Some persons decided to blast Don for no reason, and he was just making sure that they understood what happened, and he was asking them to stop...
So that's my take. Now you can go to bed, Pete, and not worry about it ;D
God bless,
John
Pete,
I don't know 100% as I haven't picked up the phone and got it straight from the horse's mouth (or is it the other end? ;D), but no I don't think Don is mad at you!
You know how frustrating it sometimes get here on the board, when you answer someones request for help. And then all the sudden the silent know it alls come out of nowhere telling you your wrong about this or that, or my favorite "ain't no way that is the problem.....he said yada yada yada!")
It has been recently brought to my attention lately (both by personal experience, and others experiences) we have some "lurky loos" on the board with nothing better to do than to lurk in the shadows, and then for what ever reason send helping members hateful, rude and annoying PM's or private emails blasting them for this or that and hiding in the shadows while doing it!
Well I'm here to tell ya, if ya don't like what someone posts don't read it. And if ya do read it, mind yer own damn bizness! If you can't respond in public, keep yer opinion to yerself! I can guarantee ya if I got something to say, I got the balls to say it where any & everybody can read it! Why don't you? (again as Don said you know who ya are!)
OK I'm off my soap box now!
;D BK ;D
The imporant part is someone had a problem and is back up and running again through various people's help from this board. It sucks to have a problem but it sure is great to have so many informed people to help one get back on their way. I wish I could help out on occasion.
Thats the way I feel, it's frustrating to read about someone thats having a problem on the road and i don't have a clue how to help them, now if only someone would write that they are broke down on the side of the road with a cabinet door that fell off or a cabinet that fell off the wall I'd know how to help but I just haven't learned much about engines yet. I'm just so thankful that we have such a wide range of experience here that if it's electrical, there is help, if it's mechanical, there is still help.
I am just getting ready to hook up all of the wiring on the Series 60 reinstall and I like the idea of spraying all of the connections with Termin-8R. Problem is, that I can't seem to find a place to buy it.
Anyone have a source?
Jim
Jim, any marine dealer like Eastern it a marine electronic grease good stuff
good luck
Ok I have to ask if I spray should I disconnect the batteries first.
I think i have to but just wanted to ask.
Pete;
No I am not mad at you, this had nothing to do with you or Jim or Clifford or Bryce, this is as BK said. The lurky loos.
I handled this wrong. I should not have brought this on the board.
This has been going on for some time, when ever I get involved I get dumped on by these people.
I let my guard down and it got to me yesterday. I apologize to all of the good people on the board
Again sorry for bringing this here.
Don
The spray you use for this electronic wiring protection should specifically say it is dielectric.
Otherwise you might be spraying liquid conductor in there to short it all out?
Batteries can be left hooked up, there shouldn't be any current flow with a dielectric.
Stand by, I'm trying to find out where and under what other names Termin8tr may be purchased.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I'm in Sacto. parked and a bit rested after breakdowns and the LONG drive from the Gulf Coast to the Left Coast. ;)
Again, Thank ALL of you who rendered assistance by helping me eliminate unknowns and guiding me to the answer. Thanks for taking my calls late at night, for returning my calls, and for calling me out of the blue. Knowing that there are people willing to help by sharing their knowledge and experience was very comforting. Even the bad jokes about Eagles helped.
Thanks for holding my hand and having the patience to explain SLOWLY, IN VERY SMALL WORDS what I had to do to fix her. ;)
Thanks for calling after she was fixed the support meant more than you know.
Thanks for posting for me cuz I was so damned twitterpaited 'cuz she was running that I moved her across a parking with loose bolts tools on the bumper, and an open bay!
Thanks for all the preventative maintenance advise after I was on the road. I will find some anti-corrosion-snot and new connectors.
Thanks for the humor dark and otherwise. =)
I'd better stop before the neighbors start singing Kumbaya.
Bad Eagle Jokes!!!! :o :o :o :o ??? What??.... Well I Never!! :D :D
Never Knew There Was Such A Thing ::)
JOHN 8)
Slow That Thing Down !!! Cant Read The SOB..
WOW Is That What You Have Been Doing All Day??? VERY GOOD.
LOL !!!!!!!!!10-4
JOHN
Buswarrior,
I think there is a disconnect about the products being discussed and their relative applications. Firstly, you mentioned "dielectric spray". That stuff is a superb insulator that is sprayed on the OUTSIDE of a "connected" connector. The dielectric waterproofs the connector and wiring and INSULATES whatever it touches. If you spray that inside a terminal connector you will have just disabled that connector. Getting that "paint" out of the connector may be a bridge too far and you will probably need to replace the entire connector. Secondly we have cleaner. That stuff gets sprayed on the connector and then you, quick like a bunny, push the connector together and then apart many times. That will serve to clean the connector contacts and not short or insulate anything. Thirdly, and I think this was what most of the postings were about, SILICONE GREASE is used to fill the connector prior to assembly. It is a superb insulator and is used for spark plug boots to prevent arcing. Curious FACT is that while it is an insulator it will actually IMPROVE the connection of pins where it is applied and also very important is that it will bar moisture or corrosion from the terminals or contacts. This stuff seems to be not only ambidextrous / and a switch hitter but it is batting 1000 on either side of the plate. See why it might be confusing? Dielectric was poison in one case and a real plus in another. Spray means it is paint....me thinks. I have the liquid tape in spray and it ain't for the inside of connectors. I am repeating what others have said and my objective is to add clarification. If this leaves you more confused then you are for sure who I wanted to get through to.
Ok, so who did I tick off? Warrior? We still on speaking terms? Any Lurkers out there want to share off line? On line?
John
John,
HTRN tells me that if you are blocked by someone then your PM comes back to you "unopened". I wish the guy that blocked me would tell me who he is cause i am getting fatigued having people answer my PM with a" NOPE, It ain't me JohnEd". Kidding there! ;D
John
Nope, it ain't me, JohnEd. ;D :D ;D.
God bless,
John
Not me JohnEd I just don't answer see you in Q I hope
good luck
Quote from: luvrbus on November 24, 2009, 05:07:21 PM
Not me JohnEd I just don't answer see you in Q I hope
good luck
Clifford, do you mind PM'ing me your email addy?
God bless,
John
DANG NABBIT! >:( ??? ;D its driving me crazy and I know in my heart that the guy won't fess up for that reason alone if no other. Really stuck cause i can't say i don't give a hoot cause then I would find out and if....never mind, I'll just up the dosage on my sleep meds. That'l teach'em. :P
John
JohnEd,sorry,little late. Nope not me either! :o ;D
Quote from: John316 on November 24, 2009, 05:11:50 PM
Quote from: luvrbus on November 24, 2009, 05:07:21 PM
Not me JohnEd I just don't answer see you in Q I hope
good luck
Clifford, do you mind PM'ing me your email addy?
God bless,
John
Thanks Clifford ;).
God bless,
John
JohnEd, it's me! I confess! I did it! You can now sleep easy knowing that IT'S MEEE! bwahahahaha...
Wait. The very fact that I read your emails about this proves it's not me. Curses - foiled again! And - the guy who blocked you doesn't know you're looking for him! You can sneak up on him!
Brian
John Ed, not me!
I guess in reading all of this...and I have made a quickie to Fort Myers, FL and back, haven't been able to read until now...I am amazed at the pettiness of someone complaining about who took credit for 'fixin' MattC's problem!
Jack
Quote from: jackhartjr on November 25, 2009, 07:58:23 PM
I am amazed at the pettiness of someone complaining about who took credit for 'fixin' MattC's problem!
Jack
:D :D :D :D I took a good chuckle over the pettiness too, Jack. After all, why would anybody pm, Don. If Pete had an issue, he could have solved it with Don. Those other didn't need to get involved at all....sheesh.
God bless,
John
ok, back from a few days R&R.
For those who wanted to source Termin8tr:
In Canada, Traction Heavy Duty Parts (NAPA's heavy division) carries the product, either on the shelf or they can order it from their catalogue.
In the US, at this time, you can only order by the case, a case has...darn, 12 cans maybe? anyway, contact Spectra directly, ask for Andy, he's expecting a few calls. Here's the link again:
http://www.spectra-ssa.com/inforequest.html (http://www.spectra-ssa.com/inforequest.html)
I'm still friends with everyone!
The spray I use, Termin8tr, is a penetrating spray and a corrosion inhibitor and is dielectric. There are others, Fluid Film is another I have used.
Sprayed into wiring and connectors, it creeps up the wires, prevents corrosion, frees stuck parts, etc etc.
The trouble with dielectric grease, its effectiveness is local to where it was applied, and it is completely dependent on the efforts of the person applying it to get it deep into the sockets, or not. Air pockets prevent it touching the deepest parts of some styles of connectors. Dielectric grease will not defend against the creeping green or black death running down the conductors. The spray creeps down the cables, inside the insulation.
The busnut challenge moving ever deeper into the world of electronic controls, is keeping corrosion from walking up the conductors inside the insulation from the ends.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
I have been quite impressed with CorrosionX (http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html (http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html)). They do not mention it on the main page, but on this page: http://www.corrosionx.com/ma_use.html, (http://www.corrosionx.com/ma_use.html,) they mention the "extraordinary dielectric properties".
I have used it on my battery connections, but not on electrical connections like the connections to the ECM. Seems to me to be a bit "greasy" and I am not sure if that is good or bad.
Anyone have experience with this product on critical electrical connections?
It is getting much easier to find - supposed to be at True Value hardware stores. Used to have to go to a marine outlet or an RV trade show.
Jim
Please note that I have started a new thread on this subject. Any replies on the subject should be posted there. Thanks