HI All!
I am in the process of building ramps so I can "officially and safely" get under my bus for the first time. I am building them using treated 2"x10# pine lumber. There will be 17 boards on either ramp secured together with 1/2" galvanized threaded rods. I cut all of the wood last weekend and will drill and fasten them together this weekend. I will heed all of the advice on wheel chocking and blocking the bus for added safety.
My first order of business will be to inspect the air lines feeding the rear air bags. On my recent (and first trip) two weekends ago I noticed the rear air bags would not air up. I managed to get the bus into a position where I could crawl under and take a look and I found a pinched air line going to the right side bags (it was actually folded over/pinched like a garden hose gets sometimes). I was able to straighten the hose and the bags aired up, but later on the return trip I experienced the same problem, although I did have some air left in the bags.
Also, at this same time I noticed the source of one of my biggest air leaks (one of many). There is a valve feeding air to the rear brakes that looks like it had a diaphragm on the bottom of it at one time. The diaphragm is no longer there and the air comes out at a pretty good pace (you can hear standing beside the bus). The valve is mounted above and in front of the drive axle and is secured to the back of the rear bay (I think - I was not in a position to inspect it closely, so it might have been mounted to something else, but it was in that general area). I noticed on this trip that my brakes did not seem to be as efficient as before. It felt like I was running with just the front brakes. Is that a likely scenario? At the time I choked it up to the first time driving the bus with a full tank of fuel, fuel tank of water, fully loaded for an extended weekend, and with three of my buddies on board - one of which tips the scales at over 400 lbs. (he is a big person at over 6'6" tall).
As I begin to replace lines and fittings what do I need to watch out for (tricks of the trade). I know in plumbing applications I use Teflon tape on my fittings - is this a good idea or a bad idea in a bus application? Is there one type of air line better than another? I have a NAPA store close by, but I do not have ready access to any big truck parts suppliers. Any advice would be appreciated.
By the way, the bus is a 1984 TMC (aka MCI) MC-9. The previous owner had installed a series of valves and switches in the curb-side rear bay to allow the bus to be leveled using the rear air bags. I am thinking of removing this setup entirely as I have twice had problems with it not allowing the rear bags to air up (not counting my current problem).
Brian
Brian,
First off, from your description, sounds like you have a hole in one of your brake can diaphragms. Ours did something similar when it had a little hole in there. So you need to service your brakes.
I use True-Blu, on all of my fittings. That has worked very well.
I will see who else responds, because I have to run right now. If nobody else responds, I will make a longer post.
God bless,
John
go to a fastenall store, they have the best 700 psi fittings at fair prices.and they have more selection than any other store in town.
soapy water time once you get the leaks you can hear repaired.Use soapy water to check your repairs and look for other problems..The regulator that is mounted in the rear wheel area should be replaced take it off should be available locally if not go to MCI web page and parts they are usually very reasonable and deliver to your door..down load a air(pneumatic)digram that will help you follow how the air is suppose to go..air lines are color coded.....use air lines that meet DOT requirements...no kinks...fasten air lines down to prevent rubbing against other parts(makes holes)..get your feet wet once you get into it is fairly simple..If your primary air is not getting high enough you 2nd system (accessory)will not have air to operate properly.
Truck stops will usually have air lines and fittings
I use gas rated pipe thread compound on all fittings, as a rule. It seems to work fine, but I don't know the rules for air brake systems. I have not changed any fittings or valves on the brake system yet.
I'm going to come out and say something you might find offensive, but I have a problem with something you said. You said (or strongly implied) that you drove your bus on a trip with a brake system that you knew was leaking badly and you felt was performing improperly. You noticed a problem, which could have been a failure of the rear brake valve, which controls the majority of the braking action of the bus, or the rear quick release valve was venting indicating a failed brake can diaphragm, and you went out anyway. The bus should have been parked until it was fixed, there is no excuse for driving a bus that has a known faulty braking system. An audible leak in the braking system is a DOT downcheck.
With that said, if you are a novice at repairing and maintaining air brake systems, maybe a good course of action is to have it inspected by a licensed air-brake technician, get it up to snuff and in good working order, then ease into the ongoing maintenance as you go along. Air brake systems are reasonably complex, although based on simple mechanical devices, and you need to have a thorough understanding of the entire system to really understand what is going on at times. It's a lot easier to start with something you know is good and work from there.
I apologize if you think I'm being unduly harsh. I think that amateurs maintaining commercial air brake systems is very achievable, but we need to maintain the same standards for safety as the commercial operators do. Their rules and practices evolved for a reason, and we need to respect that experience. If I mis-interpreted your post, I again apologize.
Brian
Brian -
No offense taken. It is in retrospect that I realize there might be a connection between perceived reduced braking capability and the leaky valve. I did not hear and/or find the leaky valve until I climbed under the bus to inspect the air bag problem. This was the first time the bus was fully loaded, so the braking capability for that condition may be normal - I never had a problem stopping; however, I could tell there was extra weight on the bus. Thanks for all of the replies so far. Please chime in with information as you deem appropriate as I will be beginning this project this weekend.
Brian :)
Was just a Top Sail Hill.just missed connection.would have came by.The Air system is very important (critical) so keep asking questions even if they sound dumb.....the dummist question is the one never ask.....what does your air gauges read on dash...Do they drop rapidly? Does your air drier blow off?
Quote from: desi arnaz on November 13, 2009, 05:10:24 AM
go to a fastenall store, they have the best 700 psi fittings at fair prices.and they have more selection than any other store in town.
Sorry, but I have to disagree with you here. Use ONLY DOT approved fittings on your brake system. They will be stamped DOT. They cost more than very similar brass fittings but are designed for the abuse a brake system takes. Generally longer barrel for more support. Be sure to use a brass ferrule inside the tubing.
You could probably use generic brass in the aux air systems (horn, wipers, suspension etc.) to save a buck, but I wouldn't do it. It's a one time expense, not a place to short change yourself.
Brian, as has been noted you MUST only use DOT tubing and fittings!!!
I use these fittings and tubing on my system. A really good source is McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#d.o.t.-tube-fittings/=4hhs6c (http://www.mcmaster.com/#d.o.t.-tube-fittings/=4hhs6c)). They are a great company to deal with and their delivery is very fast. I think their service is absolutely fantastic and prices seem fair.
I believe that their fittings with pipe threads are coated with Teflon for sealing.
You can get the tubing (DOT Nylon) there as well.
From the above link you will see that there are two types of fittings: compression and push-to-connect (""quick connect). I believe that DOT now approves the push-to-connect fittings for all air brake connections. They are much easier to use and let you avoid putting any twist in the tubing (think that might be the problem with your air bag hose).
The valve you are looking at is probably the relay valve. They are not expensive and almost all are generic parts on buses. They can also be rebuilt.
Jim
The relay valve may be alright. It may be dumping air coming from your rear brakes if one or both of the cans are bad. That is definitely the place to start, but you should have it checked by someone the really knows what they are doing. If they are springs brakes, the cans are cheap. I thought that I had a bad relay valve when I got my bus. Fortunately, when I called Luke to see about getting one, he told me what I have said above leading to an expensive, but thorough and mandatory brake system overhaul.
Brian, you will find all approved DOT fitting and hoses at any decent hydraulic hose supply I live in the middle of nowhere and the hose supply here always have the fittings and lines.
The only part he will not have is a coupling to splice 2 lines together I guess that is a no-no now for DOT
good luck
Isn't a coupler how air seats hook up for their air supply?
Quote from: belfert on November 13, 2009, 02:46:18 PM
Isn't a coupler how air seats hook up for their air supply?
Maybe so, but that's on the auxillary tank. I'm sure couplings are a no no, too much chance for failure and another spot for leakage. I don't like them myself, better off getting the correct length and be done with it. The DOT line is probably cheaper than the brass fitting.
I can see folks wanting to take a shortcut and use a coupler instead of fishing new air line through a tight space. Personally, I would do it right.
Belfert, I wasn't clear but he told me a coupling is not allowed no place in the braking system now per DOT.
Not a big deal to us anyway if the DOT ever pulled most of us here on the board over for a check we would be sitting there with the nice sticker on the windshield LOL
good luck
Any truck supplier has the DOT air line. Also as mentioned it is usually available at truck stops.
The price is also very reasonable the expense is the fittings.
Also as mentioned be sure to use the brass inserts when making connections.
Melbo
Find the leaks,
repair them,
use proper DOT materials,
take a course/read a book about air brakes.
Please don't drive the bus again until it has been confirmed to be safe.
If you feel the effect of those little loads in the braking, you've got no braking left.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
shop around for the best supply place for DOT lines fittings. I found a local place that charges the same prices as the best
I can find online and the parts are there ready to go. Also it's nice to support local business.
i see no reason that there should be air leaking from a relay unless you have DD3 cans and associated relays.
As others have mentioned read up on adjusting brakes,slacks etc...it's not rocket science....even I have woRked it all out.
BTW the dot comp fittings usually have pipe thread fittings on the other side....usual sizes 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4". I have been using
a Loctite product for the pipe thread fittings, can't remeber it's name but it's spec'ed for air lines. I actually would like to know the name of the orange stuff the dot fittings come with as it seems more"Dotty"(Dotish?).
p.s. don't use thread locker/sealer etc on the comp side of fittings.
Thanks for all of the replies to date. I spent this afternoon finishing my ramps, so I can safely crawl under the bus and start troubleshooting/repairing air lines and fittings. I did manage to reach under the bus and snap a few pictures of the trouble area. Forgive the focus, but I could not look through the viewfinder with the limited amount of room I was working with. I have posted the pictures on photobucket (http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc210/depewtee/?action=view¤t=BusAir008.jpg).
The small line with the kink in it looks like it's running to the air levellers, but make sure that is the case. Mostly you need to get up in there (after safely blocking the bus/ I also put blocking between axle and body so if an air bag looses pressure the bus does not sit on me) and work it out.
BTW my previous post did not consider that the relay itself could be at fault, if it is just pissing air all the time I would imagine it was the diaphragm in the relay. It is inexpensive to by a new relay...any truck store, look up what kind you have online with pics etc...
If you want to be really cheap maybe you can rebuild the one you have ...but I wouldn't and I am pretty inexpensive.....but these are brakes and I don't mess around with being cheap on safety stuff.
Someone mentioned the 'push-in' fittings. We use them at work on the machinery we build.
While there are DOT air brake approved "push-in" fittings, they'd be my last choice. The compression fittings are better due to the way they seal the fitting to the hose - the nut compresses a ferrule into the tube. A push-in fitting relies on an o-ring to seal against the tube.
Push-in fittings are more prone to leaking due to:
- When the o-ring dries out.
- The tube scratches the o-ring.
- Scratches in the tubing.
- If there is any twisting on the air line, the push-in fittings tube retention clamp can dig into the tubing . . .
We use the push-in fittings because they are cheaper for us. The assembly labor is where we save $$, they seal OK at first, but develop leaks faster over time than the quality compression fittings. And besides - we aren't the ones paying for air leaks in the field. . . . ;)
and they are hard to open and reuse.
After replacing the air line that had the kink in it I started the bus, let the air pressure come up, and watched the rear bags fill. I consider this a temporary fix, as the rest of the lines and fittings need to be redone/replaced (thanks Bob for the PM). As you can see in the picture below, taken prior to fixing the kink, the original leveler valves have been bypassed.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir019.jpg%3Ft%3D1258340845&hash=bf80f89dc2c505a70d97bbd2ac4ba22ff9c07399)
The levelers have been replaced with a valve and switch system that allows the rear bags to be deflated to level the bus while parking. I have a lot of work to do on this system, but I am now leaning towards keeping it (I know at a minimum it needs the clear lines replaced with DOT approved lines). Any thoughts on this system versus the stock leveler system?
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir001.jpg%3Ft%3D1258341187&hash=6b0f9e2782f8602a9dfced8b76af2810837424b2)
My newly built ramps work really well.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir021.jpg%3Ft%3D1258342498&hash=382714a78c51e9516efb6ff66fb58031335036a0)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir031.jpg%3Ft%3D1258342526&hash=f6417b0845c450be07692a1e3ee823ee3878d0b9)
The tires on the tag axle are suspended in mid-air and I noticed they spin freely. Should this be the case? Or should the brakes be applied on them when the park brake is engaged?
I looked around at the rest of the brake system trying to familiarize myself with the different components. I am going to have to do some reading to figure everything out. I will heed the advice of many and take the bus to a professional garage and have them inspect the brake system before taking it back out on the road.
With the rear of the bus elevated I had a better chance to look at the valve that is leaking air. I noticed that it looks like the center section of the valve is held in place by a clip. Is replacing this part as simple as removing the clip, sliding out the old center section, and reinserting a new one?
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir026.jpg%3Ft%3D1258342834&hash=010f9f378b442659631d9198653d11f5ee4196fb)
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir024.jpg%3Ft%3D1258342845&hash=7016eb1aaacd511150dd41229d969257dc701de2)
While looking around under the bus I also noticed what appears to be a plug missing from the area of the flywheel. Should this hole be empty? The engine is a 6V92-T with an Allison automatic transmission.
(https://busconversionmagazine.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi215.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc210%2Fdepewtee%2FBusAir029.jpg%3Ft%3D1258342916&hash=5b54a41370d9ecb9a0e58f3fe06e6c55aa691343)
Thanks again for all of the advice to date,
Brian S.
OK first is the question on the brakes.
The only brakes that are "set" by the parking brake are the "Drive" axle brakes.
On the valve question no it is not that simple (too bad, it's be nice). The clip youy see is there to hold part of it in place and can be removed to rebuild the valve if you had a "kit", which is sometimes a better option of just replacing if it is a hard to find part.
The plug missing in the bell housing is common, and OK. Many yrs ago some buses came with "wet" clutches, and on one of those if the plug was missing you would be in serious trouble by now!
On the leveling system if it were me, I'd definitely rehook the valves adn use the stock system while traveling. But I would tie your system into it also for leveling it while camping! (there are others on the board who have done great things with air leveling systems!)
And on the clear tubing, yes I would replace it with DOT approved tubing!
FWIW ;D BK ;D
On that relay that is leaking...That sounds to me like one of your diaphragms in one of your brake can's has a hole in it. The pic confirmed what I thought, that it is the same relay.
We have been there, done that, and I do know what you need to get the brakes fixed.
God bless,
John
Brain, GREAT TOPIC, GREAT POSTS.
You Seem Like The Kinda Guy That Will Get It Fixed RIGHT. ;D
Your Curious And So Am I. ???
As You Go Through Your Air Problems...We ALL Learn From That. I Have Really Enjoyed All Of The Posting On This Thread. I Am Also Kinda New To Some Of The Systems And Makeup Of Our Great Hobby.I Had My Air Brake Endorsement Many Years Ago When, I Drove MCI Coaches For A Charter Company Here In Colorado.So,This Is A Great Refresher For Me.
If You Dont Use It....You Loose It.!! 10-4
Hey,By The Way....Great Looking Ramps You Have There :o
Good Luck. I Look Forward To You Posting More Pictures And Getting The Ole Girl Back On The Road Safely..
JOHN
Hi Everyone!
I took the advice of many on this board and took my bus to a professional bus garage to have the brake system inspected. I picked it up today and I must say I am pleased with the results. The garage I used was located at Good Time Tours in Pensacola, FL (about an hour drive from my house). Mr. Roy Wassmer is the Service Manager - 850-476-0046.
To recap the story and this thread, I am going to copy/paste from portions of the service request I provided Mr. Wassmer.
Dear Mr. Wassmer and Good Time Tours Service Technicians,
Short Version: The TR-2 Inversion Valve is releasing large amounts of air causing the bus to lose all air within five to ten minutes of being shut off. I have been told this may be the result of a leaky diaphragm in a brake canister. Please inspect the brake system and adjust/repair for safe operation.
Long Version: I bought this bus back in July. It is the first bus I have owned and, although I am somewhat mechanically inclined, I believe working on the brake system should be left to professionals. I bought the bus from an individual in Minnesota and drove it back the 1,400 miles with no issues. Since July, I have driven it once every week or two in the local area (usually no more than 50 miles). On one my outings I had to make a quick, hard brake application causing one or more of the rear wheels to lock up momentarily (not sure this has anything to do with any problems, but I thought I would mention it in case it did). Last month I drove the bus to Talladega for the weekend. It is the first time I had the bus loaded (100 gallons of water, 140 gallons of fuel, 4 adults, and enough food/supplies to survive in the infield of Talladega for four days). I noticed when driving the bus that it seemed to take longer to stop than before. I attributed this to the loaded condition. After unloading the bus it still seems to take longer to stop than it did before, although it could just be my imagination.
The main reason for me bringing the bus to you is to inspect/repair/adjust the brake system. There are some other issues with the bus that I would like an estimate on repairing. The previous owner disabled the automatic levelers and installed a series of switches and air valves to allow the bus to be leveled while camping. What would it cost to install new levelers and hook the factory system back up?
The valve that adjusts the tension on the fan blower belt is leaking air. What is the cost to inspect/repair/replace this valve?
I was told by the previous owner that all filters were changed in December 2008. While they look new, I cannot attest to the accuracy of this claim. What is the cost to replace the fuel filters? Oil filters? Air filter? Any I am missing?
The previous owner also stated that he did regular oil analysis on the motor oil, but he did not provide copies of any of the results. What is the cost for an oil analysis?
Please call (XXX-XXX-XXXX) or e-mail with any questions. Also, please feel free to call or e-mail if you notice anything unsafe and/or in need of repair on the bus. I cannot afford to make the entire bus new, but I do want it to be safe. We do not plan on putting more than 3,000 to 5,000 miles per year on the bus (waiting for retirement to do the big travelling). We are planning our first family trip for the middle of December that should be less than 1,000 miles.
Thank you in advance for all of your assistance,
Brian
Mr. Wassmer was very good about calling me and providing me updates and estimates. Below is a list of some of the work done.
1. Replaced rear air tank with used one.
2. Replaced brake shoes, wheel seals, hub seals, and axle gaskets on drive axle.
3. Replaced brake chamber on left side drive and replaced four air hoses going to both brake cans on drive axle.
4. Replaced governor.
5. Replaced valve for belt tensioner.
6. Replaced R-12 valve for brake system.
7. Changed oil and oil filter.
8. Replaced both fuel filters.
9. Added one gallon of Dexron III to tranny.
10. Greased coach.
11. Replaced left side drive axle brake drum.
12. Rebuilt brake chamber on right side drive axle.
It turns out the left side drive axle brakes were frozen in the open position. Apparently years of ice, snow, salt, etc. took a toll on them. Upon further inspection they found that the left side drive axle brake drum had a crack in it. Mr. Wassmer said it was not a stress crack, but appeared to be a crack caused by someone striking the drum with a hammer or similar object (likely trying to loosen the brakes). He had an old coach in his yard and pulled a brake drum off it and sold it to me for $140. They also found that the air tank for the brakes had a lot of rust and actually had a hole in it. Again, they went to the old coach in the yard and pulled the air tank from it and sold it to me and installed it for $100. I have a parts list two pages long of other smaller items they changed (i.e., bolts, washers, diaphragms...). The total bill was quite high (don't ask), but I was kept informed the entire time of the charges and approved them as new issues were found. The bus stops really well now.
Mr. Wassmer stated that the engine sounded good, idled well, and had a lot of power. He went on to recommend a Detroit Diesel shop in Panama City in the event I ever needed any engine work. He also mentioned that my coach "rode rough." He attributed it to the levelers not being hooked up. He also mentioned a slight hesitation in first gear when starting after coming to a stop (the previous owner told me of this and insured me an Allison transmission service center inspected it and found nothing wrong. Additionally, Mr. Wassmer did not find it to be an issue, although he did advise me to monitor it). I will make separate posts for the "ride" and the "transmission" issues later and seek advice on those separately.
The labor rate charged was $30 per hour. As an example, they charge $180 for an oil and filter change (that includes the oil and filter - $87.18 for 24 quarts of Dello 400 SAE 40 and $16.39 for a B95 oil filter).
Brian S.
The missing plug in the bellhousing is so you will know if you have a transmission front seal or torque converter or engine real seal leaking. That is how I knew I needed to replace my front seal. Jack
Sounds like you have found a good shop manager.
Communication is key, and being able to work with you on prioritizing a budget is hard to find.
Would you mind posting the total, with the taxes noted?
Never mind what price someone can get from their lodge buddy to do half the job, if you are happy, were well treated, lots of advice and knowledge shared and the job done thoroughly, that doesn't come free, stay happy!
Other busnuts would benefit to see what this collection of good repairs, to get the coach road ready and SAFE, will cost.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Sounds like you found a good shop. $30/hr labour is as good as it gets. If I could find that probably would get some stuff done. A small aside is a used drum for 140 is not the best price in the world, but then again when the labour is coming that cheap you are way ahead.
zubzub, I wondered about that item as well, and $30 an hour is a GREAT shop rate, but we can't price out apples and oranges, as there may be other costs that were simply lumped into the used drum price.
That's why I'd like Depewtee to share the total for the bill and compare that against the total of the work done. How the shop built up the bill in order to continue being a viable enterprise is a huge variable between shops, the small bits not being my concern. It distracts from whether this was a good price for the whole.
For those not familiar with these matters, that used drum had to be removed by paid skilled labour in the moment, turn key, and was available right there. Removal of a good drum in a scrap yard situation costs a lot less, or it's your labour, if you pull it yourself.
There are costs to finding, going and fetching a cheaper one, and it has to be lifted in and out of the fetch vehicle... Forklift doesn't work well into the back of a Honda sedan?
And there would be extra paid time/effort for the wheel assembly to be reassembled with the replacement drum, it would have been pulled off in one piece (drum/hub/wheels/tires staying together) from the axle, with the expectation to put it back on again without the fuss.
When comparing shop prices to other options, since the economic viability of a coach conversion depends greatly on we busnuts being do-it-yourselfers, we cannot discount our time or the costs of keeping that old pick-up around to zero when comparing these numbers.
Paying someone else handsomely for some jobs does have a nice ring to it!!!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Brian, I live in laurel hill, call and or stop by. eight three 0 six six 00 or six52 two800. Is the plaace You went to for service on highway 90? I noticed some buses parked on 90 traveling east on 90 from PNS. Look forward to meeting You. Regards John
Buswarrior - $3,084.04 parts, labor, and taxes.
Zubzub - The $140 for the brake drum included the drum, removing it from the old bus, and installing it on mine.
Junkman42 - Great Time Tours is located at
455 Corday Street
Pensacola, Florida 32503
Local: (850) 476-0046
Toll Free: (800) 446-0886
Take the Brent Lane exit off of I-110, go west under the overpass and take a left at the first light. You can see the shop and their buses really well from I-110, however if you are traveling south you will have passed by the exit before seeing them.
Although the total bill might at first appear high, I personally am very happy to pay the cost. Everyone on this board was in agreement that the brake system was the one system I did not want to tackle myself. Also, there was much more work done than repairing the brakes. I am happy and highly recommend the shop - they were very professional and communicated with me very well throughout the process.
One more thing for convenience... The service shop is located behind their "dispatch center." The dispatcher center is open 7:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m. seven days per week. During non-shop hours you can drop your bus off and leave the keys with the dispatcher. They will also let you leave payment with the dispatcher and pick up your bus during non-shop hours (although I chose to pick it up from the shop to talk more with the staff). Also, I dropped my bus off on a Saturday morning while the shop was closed. As I pulled in the gate I was met by a staff person who lives on site. He described himself as security/technician/driver. I felt very comfortable leaving my bus at the shop.
Brian S.
That bill is not high.
Remember, the new replacement cost for that asset is over half a million dollars.
You have invested a very modest sum in the mechanical upkeep of an expensive and complex machine.
As far as I'm concerned, you got great value for your money, and left feeling well taken care of.
That was a lot of work, and if anything else had been noticeably wrong, it would have been found.
For roughly $77 a foot, and the coach away for only a short while, you go down the road with a much more secure feeling.
How long would it take some of us to plow through a list that long?
I'd burn through several weekends, and be hung up at certain stages with no parts, and have to run around during the week collecting them.
Time I do not have.
Money well spent!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
yup sounds like a good deal, the only problem is you got ripped off 'cause you didn't get to spend 4 weekends filthy on your back, banging your head on stuff and skinning your knuckles, running around looking for parts and all the other good feelings associated with DIY bus repairs and maintenance:). Also no dirty looks from your SO for spending so much time away. You really got the short end of the stick. Wish I had a shop like that near me, I could do with some of that pain.
On another more serious note, watch out you don't roll off the ends of those run up blocks, and you need bigger chocks for the wheels.
Zubzub - I have been wondering how to best chock my bus when it is on the ramps. For now, I have been placing 4"x4" chocks/blocks on either side of the front tires. I am hesitant about this arrangement and would appreciate any suggestions. Here are a few options I have seen on the Internet.
1.
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2.
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Brian S.
Brian,
In my honest opinion you got a great deal, and have found great shop to work with!
I especially like the labor rate, and it seems they are very customer friendly!
If I were you I'd keep in touch and use them from time to time even if it's just an annual oil change & service, with a overall safety inspection. A good shop is a great thing to have on your side when ugly problems arise. They will take into account that you are a "regular customer" and they will be comfortable working on your coach because they have gotten to know you.
The price of the brake drum is not that bad considering that it includes labor off the donor and onto your bus! (If it were just the drum it would not be that great)
They price of a "service" (oil change and greasing) is quite reasonable!
I'm glad to hear of your positive experience with them. I have seen their shop and buses from time to time while down in the Pensacola area, and am glad to know they are a good place to deal with if I ever have a bus or customer in need help in the area!
;D BK ;D
Quote from: Depewtee on December 13, 2009, 06:54:08 AM
Zubzub - I have been wondering how to best chock my bus when it is on the ramps. For now, I have been placing 4"x4" chocks/blocks on either side of the front tires. I am hesitant about this arrangement and would appreciate any suggestions. Here are a few options I have seen on the Internet.
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Brian S.
Brian,
FWIW I prefer #1!
The rubber ones are ok, but they will mash down with enough pressure on them. I seen them tear, rip or break up from being "accidentally" driven over, or drug by the chocked wheel.
I have several of each of #'s 2, 3 & 5 that all are now only good as chew toys for my kids now because of this! ;D
;D BK ;D
YMMV just my honest opinion!
Brian,
I remember a Knut saying that he put his "stop chock" an appropriate distance behind his "front wheel" when backing up his ramp and the same distance in front of his front wheel when pulling forward up onto the ramp. I think that even if you had a nice tall stop at the rear of the ramp that if you bumped into it you would rock the ramp over. One Knut made ramps like yours but he made a steep ramp off the back not to ever drive down on purpose but to not have the ramp rock over if he stabbed the brake when he was near the end of the ramp or accidentally drove off the back. That kinda made sense to me as the increase in weight would be to an item that was NOT really portable anyway.....movable at best and for me, at this stage, by someone else..
Good luck and thank you for starting a most excellent topic.
John
$30.00 an hour???? We can't find anything under $90.00 in Sacramento. We went to one shop to have some slack adjusters installed. They went on to say we needed an air leak fixed, a valve replaced, a wheel seal replaced. When the estimate went over $5K, we left and did it ourselves.
Don and Cary
GMC4107
Neoplan AN340
couple years ago i had my bothe buses rebuilt and the gentleman charged me 35.00 hr and just the cost of the parts with no markup he was a 74 year 2cycle guy owned his own shop over 50 years he just loved workining on them great wealth of knowledge sadley he passed away..