need to pull the rear to clean housing check bearings ect i have never done this any tips on what or what
not to do thanks john
If it's not making any grinding or whining noises, or if it isn't leaking, or if the oil is clean with minimal shavings on the magnetic oil plug, I would leave well enough alone. Those 23,000lb rear ends are pretty much bullet proof made to go 100's of thousands of miles without much in the way of maintenance, except for changing the oil and perhaps resetting the lash on the pinion gear-which is done without taking out the pumpkin. Good Luck, TomC
hi tom my rear got some water in it so i need to pull to clean it unless i can drain it and fill it with something and redrain
but i dont think so any tips on pulling the pumpkin
Pulling the pumpkin is relatively easy-albeit a VERY heavy job. First you need to jack up the bus and put blocks under the wheels to make it high enough to slide out the pumpkin on the transmission jack-you can't move it on your own-it is heavy (measure the diameter of the pumpkin up and down, then add the collapsed measurement of the transmission jack). Disconnect the drive shaft and move aside (be careful not to loose the needle bearings in the U-joints-or just plainly get new U-joints). Then you want to make a couple of oil pans out of the bottom 3 inches of a coolant or oil jug. This is to catch the oil when you pull the axle shafts out (the middle hub of the axle). Remember-on any heavy duty full floating axle, the axle housing is what supports the load, and axle shafts job is just to transmit the rotational force to the wheels. Pull the axle shafts all the way out then cover the holes with plastic to keep dirt out. If you want to get really complete in your inspection, now is the time to pull the wheels too. In this case you'd have to jack up the bus with axle jacks instead of blocks under the wheels. By pulling both wheels on each side, you can then also pull the hubs and inspect the bearings and install new wheel bearing seals (always). Depending on the age of the bus, maybe consider having new wheel studs installed-especially if you're considering installing forged aluminum wheels instead of steel wheels-since aluminum wheels are thicker and need longer studs. Personally- this is what I would do-do a complete axle tear down, inspection, and replacing of anything that looks in need of replacement. The bearings sometimes won't need replacement-but leave that up to your machine shop to decide. They can then press in the new bearing races also (always better then pounding them in with a hammer). Good Luck, TomC
I agree with TomC's first post, I see no reason to go to all this work when it is not very hard to clean in place.
Unless it is severely rusted you can even use a sprayer to blast it with solvent and then let it drain and dry. You may have to add oil and drain that once but that is far less work than removing it.
You really don't want to take apart any differential that is working well and properly adjusted. Adjustment is critical and it you get it back together wrong it will wear out in a very short time.
Differential work is not fun and you absolutely must know what you are doing.
ok what if i drained it then filled it with gasoline or something else then with the bus on blocks turn the tires to spin
and clean let it drain for a few days then add oil ?
Quote from: crown on November 08, 2009, 04:45:00 PM
ok what if i drained it then filled it with gasoline or something else then with the bus on blocks turn the tires to spin
and clean let it drain for a few days then add oil ?
I think I would use mineral spirits instead of gasolene, much safer. Jack
hi jack good to hear from you when are you going to be home i will try that say hi to paula john
Fill the diff with diesel fuel John and use that to flush it. Diesel will do as good a job of cleaning as anything, its cheap and if a little gets left behind it has some lubricity.
to remove the water wouldn't it be helpful to have some kind of alcohol in the mix???
something like heet or gas line antifreeze that would mix with oil and remove the water????
Just a thought --- but the last time I had a thought it weakened the nation
Melbo
Quote from: JackConrad
I think I would use mineral spirits instead of gasolene, much safer. Jack
I totally agree. But myself I'd be using Diesel or Kerosene.
Quote from: bobofthenorth
Fill the diff with diesel fuel John and use that to flush it. Diesel will do as good a job of cleaning as anything, its cheap and if a little gets left behind it has some lubricity.
Quote from: Melbo
to remove the water wouldn't it be helpful to have some kind of alcohol in the mix???
something like heet or gas line antifreeze that would mix with oil and remove the water????
Just a thought --- but the last time I had a thought it weakened the nation
Melbo
Good thought Melbo, but water always goes to the bottom of fuel/oil/diesel anyway so I wouldn't worry ro much about it!
Quote from: crown
ok what if i drained it then filled it with gasoline or something else then with the bus on blocks turn the tires to spin
and clean let it drain for a few days then add oil ?
John just use diesel, let it soak overnight. Then spin it, drain it let it sit overnight again, then fill it will 80/90W gear oil and it should be fine.
;D BK ;D
Quote from: crown on November 08, 2009, 05:13:35 PM
hi jack good to hear from you when are you going to be home i will try that say hi to paula john
John,
We will arrive home next Sunday afternoon. Jack