The wet tank (front drivers side) was making a rattling noise, over the pit I found air and water bubbles leaking from the top of the large brass one way valve# 223 (which has a arrow pointing down). Taking this off the tank. Also on Checking the bottom valve, Expello 24 volt M/L #995106. The power (24 volt) was not connected the exhaust outlet had a plug in it?
So I feel I should replace the the the one way valve, hopfully I can get this from a truck supply. The brass fitting joining the copper incoming line though the bottom of the coach is going to be to hard to line up and not cross thread. So I will use flex air hose extend the copper line and with a few turns enter the top of the new one way valve.
At the bottom of the tank I will completely replace the Expello 24 volt valve with a manual pull valve.
Does anyone have any input?
Thanks
John
Sounds good to me.
Fasten the extension plumbing securely. No potential for movement when you are done.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Thanks, Buswarrior,
I forgot to say the tank was completely full of water and light brown sludge stuff.
John
You will be pleased with the reduced compressor cycling, less apparent air consumption on brake applications, but slightly longer air up times from empty, now that the volume of that tank has been returned to service.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
That is why we drain our air tanks!
DaveG
The tank had a automatic 24 volt disconnected drain on it. Have you checked yours? What do you have for a drain on your wet tank, auto or manual??
John
John,
You're really confusing me here - front wet tank and 24v??
What are you driving, it surely isn't a 4104? Must be your MC9.
Sorry Gus I should have put it in the post. Its a MCI 9,
John
MIne are all manual with cable running out to the wheel wells.
I added one of those automatic valves to my wet tank but it never worked. Always had one on the dry tank.
My ping tank never has any water?
I went back to manual with cables to the outside, no worries about freezing this way.
Automatic drain valves are not particularly reliable at doing their job.
Great concept in their designed operation, however, they do not seem to function as intended as time goes by.
For a busnut, in my opinion, manual drains, and watching what comes out, is a better way to go.
With manual drains, you positively know they have worked, and for preventive maintenance purposes, you want to see what it is that comes out.
If you don't see the drainage, how would you know you are suddenly pumping oil or that there is an increase in water?
Put a knee on the ground and watch what comes out!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Well said and good point BW
Is it normal to have water in your tanks? I check our often, and we are always dry. We also replace the desiccant cartridge every year, so could that have something to do with it?
God bless,
John
A good air drier will remove close enough to all the moisture to say it gets it all.
John316, you have a good air drier, and well done on doing the desiccant annually!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Thanks BW. I was wondering! ;D
I just got this year's cartridge. It was from MCI, and I got it delivered for 50 (I think). I got it because I wanted free shipping, and needed one anyways ;D.
God bless,
John
Buswarrior,
You were right it takes a long time to air up. I am looking at putting the Expello valve back in the system, but having a pull drain attached so It can be manually drained daily,
I belive this valve when aired up sends a reading of air to the front gauge and to the low air buzzer/light, which in turn allows you to ee the air on the front gauge faster than being streight though piped and not having it there.
What do you think??
Thanks
John
I'd go with your original plan, scrap that auto drain thing.
If it is what we think it is, the wires are for the heater to keep it from freezing in winter temps.
Lighten the coach and simplify your plumbing?
The air gauge gets its pressure source elsewhere, and the low air warning too, deeper in the air system.
If the gauge on the dash isn't up, you aren't ready to drive. With that full tank of water, you have grown accustomed to that length of time being far shorter than it should be.
That quickness was at the expense of having the designed volume of air available for the air system, primarily the brakes.
In stop and go traffic, in the rain, with air wipers, I expect that you would have had trouble maintaining pressure with that volume occupied by water.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Excellent example of why popping the tanks often is good practice. One thing - the venturi effect of blowing air through the drain valve will often, if the ambient temperature and humidity is right, cause water vapour to form outside the tank as the air rushes out and is cooled by the pressure change. Similar to visible vortices off wing tips in humid weather. So if you suddenly one day seem to have more water than normal, think about that as a possible cause.
Brian
Well it never did air up, so I put the Expello Valve back in the bottom of the tank, I also put a manual drain between the tank and the Expello. My air comes up great, When I have in the past mauverd around the yard the air gauge would quickly drop down to 80 psi. NOW it stays right up at 105 t0 115 no matter how many time a touch the brake.
You were right about having more air and not as spungee Buswarrier , also you mentioned about the 24 volt going to the Expello for heat, I think your right cause it does not appear to do anything else.
Thanks
John.