A old trucker told me that I can switch from 22.5 to 24 with no problem for me MCI 102A3. What's the view of the board?
Thanks,
Danny
Tons of information and opinions on this topic in the archives. Click on "Search" above left, then type "22.5 24 wheels" (without the quotes) in the box, leave user as "*", and you will get two full pages of posts on this very subject.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
Thanks Sean
I would think you could do the swap with no problem, 24's are more popular in tire size I've heard. I have (previous PO installed) 22.5 on the front and 24 on the rear. I would like the same size all the way around just for GP. Keep in mind we have an Eagle. Use a steel inside wheel on the driver unless you want to run alum. then you will need longer studs.
Like Sean said, lots to read doing the search, if you want answers now always ask anytime. We're all here to try and help each other.
Paul
You need to make sure the the 24.5's will clear your wheel flares on your steering axle when you make turns.
Quote from: SmoothJazz on September 04, 2009, 12:51:44 PM
You need to make sure the the 24.5's will clear your wheel flares on your steering axle when you make turns.
The overall size of the tire/wheel assembly is almost identical -- hard to imagine how this could ever be a problem.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
On my Eagle the 22.5's measure 40" dia. the 24.5's measure just right at 43". So Dan is on to the reason why the 22.5's are on the front of mine.
Paul
Quote from: Dreamscape on September 04, 2009, 01:17:22 PM
On my Eagle the 22.5's measure 40" dia. the 24.5's measure just right at 43".
That sounds like it could be an
11R22.5 -- my
12R22.5's are 43 inches, and that's what the MCI is fitted with, stock.
-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com (http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com)
That's right Sean.
Yes it is more to the right diameter to rplace 12R 22.5 with 11R 24.5 . I have 24.5 on the drive and 12R 22.5 an all the rest. I then carry a 24.5 spare that I can use anywhere as the tag and steer don't care at least till I can get to civilazation. Jerry
If you have a heavy bus, you can go with 11R-24.5 16ply rated tires and only see a few hundred pounds difference in carrying capacity. I changed from 12R-22.5 to 11R-24.5 since the 24.5's are standard truck tires and readily available at truck stops. And they are slightly larger so you get a bit more speed out of them (476rpm for 24.5 compared to 485rpm for 12R-22.5). Good Luck, TomC
Shouldn't be a problem. I run 11R24.5s on my MC9.
You will have to change some studs to use aluminum if you are not already using aluminum.
I changed mine 20 years ago and have had no problems. I do use a 24.5 H rated for the load, but my eagle is heavy. The 24.5 tires are not as easy to get now as they used to be, because lots of trucks have gotten away from them and gone to the metric sizes.
Jack
I am a bit surprised that someone did not mention to be careful of the type of wheel (assuming you are buying used wheels). My guess is that your bus is set up for stud piloted. The other option is hub piloted and I don't think you can use that wheel on your MCI.
Stud piloted wheels have a bit of a taper on the stud bore of the wheel for seating of the tapered nut.
Jim
MCI wheel fastener types were purchaser specified.
You'll find both hub pilot and stud pilot out there, and you can change with the replacement of the studs.
I have one of each in the yard.
Very important that you get stud pilot rims for stud pilot system, with the chamferred holes as Jim has posted. The hub pilot clamping nuts are oblivious to the chamfer.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Thanks guys for all the information.
Danny
Danny, if you are looking at used wheels and if they are stud piloted, be ****sure**** to inspect them very carefully around the bolt circle. If at all possible use a dye penetrant (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection)).
If stud piloted aluminum wheels are over torqued the taper of the nut can apply huge forces to the wheel that can cause cracking.
Jim
Yeah, what Jim said. Alum wheels take a beating around the bead area, the valve stem hole and the stud area. If they are not really, really good and really really priced right, pass or buy new...from years of experience with aluminum wheels!