I seem to be having some issues with my Vanner Equalizer after installing new batteries and wiring. I have 12 volts on the 12 volt terminal and 24 volts on the 24 volt terminal. But, for some reason I decided to check voltage between the ground on the equalizer and my battery negative. I have 12 volts there. I went to reconnect the ground last as recommended, but it arced during connection so I didn't connect it.
I have six 12 volt batteries connected in series and parallel to get 24 volts. I have all of the postives on one end of each string connected to a post to get 24 volts. I then have all of the positives in the center of each string hooked together for 12 volts. The Vanner 12 volt is hooked to this center tap. Is this correct way to wire this?
My battery bank lost over 1.5 volts overnight with nothing hooked up and the voltage is now lower than when I installed the batteries. Could the Vanner be causing this? I don't have the ground on the Vanner connected right now.
I do have a call into Vanner tech support.
My bus will drain it's start batteries in two days if I forget to throw the battery disconnect switch. It leaves the Vanner connected, at least somewhat, because I still have 12 volts from the starts with the disconnect thrown. I have no idea what load is draining the batteries, I can't think of anything that is 'on' when the bus is turned off at the dash.
Brian
These are house batteries with zero load. The circuit breaker to everything is shut off.
I talked to Vanner and they think everything is wired right and I just need to connect the ground. The Vanner may be using up power because of no ground. It still doesn't explain why the spark when connecting the ground though.
When I have connected Vanners, I get as spark as the wires are connected. I think maybe a capacitor or something. Jack
Brian, does the green LED light up on the Vanner? I have a voltage drain in mine. My LED semms to glow a bit. Even with Zero load on the battery bank.
I used a couple of breakers kinda like this link for picture purposes,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370227282420&viewitem=#ht_2224wt_1002 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370227282420&viewitem=#ht_2224wt_1002)
I have seen them at auto zone,
They give me switch and protection, I turn it off when shut down, I also have another switch for 12v by the 24 v.
As says Jack, they always spark when you hook up the ground. :o
The ground should always be hooked up last.
The ground should be hooked to the bus chassis at the battery chassis ground point. No matter the batteries. The chassis is common to your alternator.
The spark when attaching the ground is normal...to a point. If something gets hot, that ain't right.
If you are using a Vanner to maintain your house batteries from the alternator, keep in mind that Vanners have limits to their 'distribution' amperage. A 50 or 60 A Vanner would be overtaxed (IMHO) keeping a large battery bank, you house batteries, if they were low. You may have a larger Amp Vanner, but they have limits.
My 50A Vanner is hardwired into the batteries. Vanners are not supposed to be turned off. I do turn off the chassis loads, but the house (which the Vanner maintains) load is always 'on'...primarily because I want lights when I go into the coach and don't want the radio memory erased every time the batteries are turned off.
My batteries stay up for months...with the Vanner hot.
Is it possible that you have a bad battery in your bank and the Vanner is working to keep the banks balanced?
If correcting the ground doesn't work, unhook the strings so that each battery can be monitored. You may have a battery failing. Disconnecting the grounds on each string (not each battery) will isolate the batteries.
JR
No spark when I connected the ground this evening. The green LED went out, but it came back on when I left the bethroom light on for a bit. I think it is working fine.
I have two seperate Vanner equalizers. One for the bus chassis wiring and one for the house system. The one I am working with is the house system. It is hardwired to the battery bank with fuses.
I have a 100 amp (and not Vanner brand) only on bus batteries. Instructions called for switch and protection so I used the breakers as combos. The generic may not be as efficient as a real vanner. :)
Just my way ;)
Vanner has a website that has instruction manuals for wiring posted.
I believe...that I read that a Vanner should not have fuses in the 12V and 24V sense leads.
If your Vanner isn't located immediately next to your batteries, I'd be tempted to fuse the leads.
You got me curious now. I'm going to look at their website and see what they recommend.
I do not have fuses in my Vanner leads. They are all inside a metal box so it ain't a fire hazard in that location.
The lack of spark when hooking up the ground may be an indication of a problem? Mine always sparks when hooked up. You may have a much newer version that doesn't do that? Mine is vintage '90.
Watch your battery voltages and you'll see whether it's working or not.
JR