Lost 5 of the 10 rear passenger drive Axel lug studs. I am limping to a tyre/truck stop. They said it could be Monday before they could get MCI studs.
Would any of you guys Know were I can get 5 or 6 Lug studs??
Thanks
John
Sorry John, I can't help you, but maybe someone will. Be safe out there, hang in there, it will get better. How did you lose the studs?
Bill
Sorry, those studs are specialty. Try calling local bus charter lines. That is where we got ours in a pinch.
God bless,
John
Hi , give me a call 847-561-9188. I am 45 min Nortn of Chicago
Mike
Hope you get the studs and get on your way soon,
What took out five studs on one side ?? Asking just to learn from your unfortunate situation, in case I am sitting on the side of the road south of Chicago someday.
Best of Luck,
Gary
ABC has a facility in Chicago. I expect they will have them.
If not, call JD at C&J Bus Repair (www.cjbusrepair.com) in MN. He can overnight them to you.
Depending on the nature of the event, the surviving studs may be damaged. Consider replacing the entire set of 10 to be safe.
John, replace all 10 and keep the inside tight this time and you want have that problem,not saying you did it but I have seen when guys changing the hubs and drums put the wrong one on the wrong side causing the nuts not to stay tight and break the studs Good luck
Quote from: Kwajdiver
Sorry John, I can't help you, but maybe someone will. Be safe out there, hang in there, it will get better. How did you lose the studs?
Bill
Quote from: Gary
Hope you get the studs and get on your way soon,
What took out five studs on one side ?? Asking just to learn from your unfortunate situation, in case I am sitting on the side of the road south of Chicago someday.
Best of Luck,
Gary
My guess would be old age & rough roads! (he did just leave Chicago!)
;D BK ;D
Quote from: Nusa
Depending on the nature of the event, the surviving studs may be damaged. Consider replacing the entire set of 10 to be safe.
I also agree, I'd replace all 10 !
Just beware of a man named Leroy Brown! ;) I hope you get back on the road soon!
Glenn
I spoke with John this morning, (Hi John), and it was the drive axle we just put a seal in a few weeks ago.
According to him, the holes in the aluminum wheel are wallowed out and he is going to put a steel wheel on to get him home after repair.
IIRC, we couldn't get the lugnuts or the inner nuts off with my impact wrench and had to use his torque multiplier, (12:1), and even then had to use a 2' cheater pipe on it to break them loose.
I mentioned at the time that it was likely that they were stretched and/or fractured and needed to be changed.
John is going home for some personal business that he has to attend to on Monday and will boogie on back to Illinois as soon as that's done.
As a reminder to all.. Watch those guys with the 1" IR impact wrenches at the tire shops... don't let them hammer on the nuts for minutes on end, this is a good way to break them off at the worst possible time. Check the torque yourself if you have a way to do it. 450-500 lbs torque is all that's needed.
Also make certain you have the correct outer lug nuts for the type wheel you have. There IS a difference between steel wheel lugnuts and Aluminum wheel lugnuts!
I'm just glad it didn't happenwhile John was stuck coming through Chicago... That could have been really bad.
First off, a correction. I didn't read well, and I thought that your bus was a MCI. A gmc might have different studs, and not be specialty.
I agree about the one inch gun. Don't let them touch your bus with a gun like that.
God bless,
John
Come on John, a 1 inch tire gun is the standard of the industry. Virtually ever tire shop in the world is going to do your tire work with a 1 inch gun. If the RV crowd starts showing up at tire shops across the land and wants them to do our tires with anything else they are going to send us down the road. (Its all they have). I guess you could always get a tire man with an attitude, but its pretty rare to have anyone in the industry hammer on your studs with a good gun, especially with aluminum wheels because the steel nuts will eat the aluminum holes right out.
Part (most) of the issue here is inspection. This is a driver responsibility issue. Everytime I stop I do a walk around inspection, that "includes" looking at all of my lug nuts. DOT requires this of anyone driving commercial equiptment. I don't want to hurt anyone or be at the side of the road broken down, so I have the habit and I follow it through when I haul the family around in the bus just like I would in the truck. I am more safety conscious with the family. I think they are the most precious cargo I ever haul.
We are basically private carriers, we are running commercial equiptment and need to follow the rules set aside for public safety when we drive commercial vehicles even if its for private use. Check your tires every 2 hours or 100 miles is the requirement. If everyone would do their safety checks, they would catch something like this before it became a problem and have the lugs retightened.
If my bus/truck has tire work, its my responsibility to inspect the tires and the lugs before I get into the drivers seat. That responsibility becomes even more important for the next few cycles, because that's when a loose wheel situation will most likely show up.
I am very much against sharing the road with any heavy equiptment that has not had the wheels tightened tightly with a 1 inch tire gun. I have shared my lane with oncomming airborne truck tires and wheels in the past, and have been at accident scenes where innocent people have been killed.
So, its tight as you want for me, (If you destroy the wheel over time, I will replace it). I'll find a way to get them off, but for safety sake, please don't leave them loose, because not everyone does the safety inspections.
Rarely are aluminum wheels retorqued, but I believe the maunfacturer requires it, so we have several issues here and the way to solving this is not by everyone trying to run looser lug nuts.
Crist Trucking has practice CDL tests online for free. cristcdl.com. I strongly urge everyone of you to take all the practice tests at this site including the Haz Mat tests. We all run with the Hazardous equiptment everyday and the more you know about who you are sharing the road with, the better judgements you can make when you are behind the wheel and the safer you can keep your families.
NJT, That is a very kind obligation you've put yourself under for John. Remember what you said?
So, its tight as you want for me, (If you destroy the wheel over time, I will replace it). I'm really sure he'll appreciate the help.
Yup. I've seen 1" guns in every tire shop I've gone to with my trucks, and yes, NJT, I've also seen the people they hire to operate those guns.
It seems you have a lot of trucks on the road at this time, and no, I never did. my company only had 5 at any one time. However, I always watched my tires being changed and if some reject from the local McDonalds was hammering on my lug nuts with his impact wrench, I would put a stop to it.
Over Torque is as deadly to oncoming traffic as a drunk driver.
Have you ever seen what a truck tire and wheel will do to a car if it comes loose from a truck at 65 mph?
On your walk around, do you actually get down and check the nuts to see if they will turn? Do you use your hand or do you use a socket wrench to check? Lug nuts are known to stick if the threads have been stretched. If they are stretched or bunged up in any way, they won't move when you grab them by hand. There have been any number of times I've seen a broken stud on one of my axles, I've also seen what happens when a wheel breaks around the lugs ... from both sides. I've been the one with the broken wheel and the one that picked up the pieces after a truck/bus tire and wheel have creamed a car.
With steel wheels, it's easy to see if you have a loose lugnut. There will be rust working out from the offending hole. How, Pray tell, do you tell if a lugnut is too tight? Is a visual inspection enough, at least before you find cracks in the wheel or the stud breaks?
Conversely, how do you tell that an aluminum wheel is under or over torqued? with your hand? after 5000 miles? after 5 miles? I submit that you watch the idiots that are actually working on the tire and stop them from doing something really stupid.
More Torque does NOT make safer attachment.
Maybe you should read what Accuride, Bud and the other wheel makers have to say, as well as Euclid,(the makers of your studs), and the vehicle manufacturer.
Telling someone that over torque is not a problem is pretty much as stupid as flying a kite with a copper wire attached to it in a thunderstorm and having the end of the wire in your mouth.
Over torqueing is worse than under. It stetches the bolt and nut to be rendered unsafe. I would take the advice of Dallas and be on the safe side. I would want to know if they are all torqued properly.
I would not rust a gun to give it the proper torque required.
But it's like everything we do, "Do it your way".
Just my 2 cents for whatever it's worth.
Paul
It sounds like these studs failed after being reassembled with damage already present. There's a lesson for all of us here. At the time I expect John thought he was saving a few bucks by reusing the studs that he had just abused to get the wheel off. Probably now he wishes he had spent the few bucks up front. There ain't no shortcuts to success - reusing damaged parts is p-poor economy. I'm not dumping on you John, BTDT myself, many times. I've never regretted doing a job right the first time but plenty of times I have wished I had done it that way.
Dallas,
I was pretty considerate of your position in this. You did let this unit out of your shop and now it almost lost a wheel. Telling someone it might come off before they leave the shop in my opinion is not a good business practice.
Every tire shop I deal with has experienced tire people. Mainly Les Schuab Tire. Some of their commercial guys that work on my equipment have been there over 30 years. If I even thought that a McDonalds type was doing my tires I would move on. Tires are a huge part of the transportation industry and most positions are well paid career jobs. There is nothing to be ashamed of if you are in the tire business and I am thankful that I am serviced by the competent people that I am.
I don't believe that tight lugs will cause a wheel center to fail. A wheel center will not fail quickly in my opinion. They start cracking between the bolt holes and work from there. There is ample time to catch something like this through inspections and tire swaps if everyone is doing their jobs.
We lost a wheel that had all new inner studs on Yogi's truck about 20 years ago. No damages thankfully. WSP showed up and kept the studs to investigate. They were to soft, someone made them out of the wrong steel.
It would not have mattered how they were torqued they were going to fail.
No, I really don't have alot of trucks on the road everyday. The most I run is 9. I do however have more than 3 trailers for each truck, and that keeps alot of rubber in the mix.
More than once we have had to torch outer studs off equipment, but the only wheel we have ever lost (10 years ago) came back to a bearing retainer, never over tightened studs. We all break one sometimes, but DOT allows you to stay in service with 2 broken as long as they are not side by side.
I'll stick with what I said, tight wheels don't come off around here, and loose one do.
I have alot of respect for you Dallas and in no way am I trying to belittle you. I know that you ran your fleet out of the Spokane area and know well the roads and weather conditions you have experienced and have no reason to doubt anything you say. We all have had different experiences with equipment however and there is always room to kick things around a little. Most times everyone is looking to place blame somewhere, but the more you do this the more you know that no matter what you do, things are gonna happen and they don't always need a reason.
I have to agree with you.. there are as many opinions as there are mechanics.
The only point I would like make is that Les Schaub is one of the reasons I started checking on what the guys in the shop were doing. I lost a set of duals off a new Trailmobile beam trailer with less than 400 miles on it, (It came from Trailmobile, Seattle.. I needed to put heavier tires on it for the loads I was hauling.), 1000 miles later the other side went south on me while I was headed east past Moses Lake. (You should have seen the splash and the carp fishermen run when they saw that one coming!).
I am very leery of anyone that works on my tires anymore. I've even seen thm go around and around with a 1" gun hammering for at least 30 seconds to a minute on each lug. Maybe my OD experience has something to do with it, After all, when you start working with permit loads, the whole ball game changes between DOT and Insurance.
These are cheap and show at a glance a loosening nut. I know, I know not very pretty on your Alcoas....
http://www.wheelsafeplus.com/wheelsafe.html
Quote from: Hobie on July 18, 2009, 03:23:14 PM
These are cheap and show at a glance a loosening nut. I know, I know not very pretty on your Alcoas....
http://www.wheelsafeplus.com/wheelsafe.html
I believe I have seen these on coach buses. I had no idea what they where the first few times I saw them, but I finally realized they must be to show loose lugnuts. These are fairly common on cement mixers around here.
The yellow flag things are pretty much universal here, on trucks at least. Part of my brain is telling me that they're a legal requirement, although that may not be true.
I can't recall ever noticing them on a bus however. In fact an awful lot of modern coaches have wheel trims that cover the nuts, just like on a car. That cannot be clever, but I guess the industry has deemed it to be acceptable
Jeremy
OK guys what do you use to torque the wheels with ,500# is a lot of torque
I use a 4:1 multiplier and a 250# torque wrench. I'd like to use a 650# torque wrench but I'm too cheap to buy one and I don't want to give up the weight and bay space to haul it around with me.
I use a 10:1 proto torque multiplier and a beam type torque wrench. The instructions for the multiplier say not to use snap type torque wrench. I use a jack stand for the torque reaction arm on the multiplier. It is easy to torque the wheels this way and uniform every time. Hammering lug nuts with a air wrench with no torque stick is a invitation for a failure. I am to old to use a cheater bar , the equipment I use is light and easy to handle. Just My way! John
I try to learn something from each post but this one has me baffled, bob says that john reused studs that he had "clearly abused", others say that they can glance at a lugnut and tell if the torque is correct and we're supposed to do this at 2 hour increments, then there is the question of liability with one saying that a bus was allowed to leave with a wheel that was bound to fail, I'm sure there are many expierienced and qualified mechanics in here but how can this be determined by the few words that opened the post. I can certainly see the merit in having the proper torque wrench and knowing how to use it but, come on, nobody can convince me that a visual inspection of a lugnut as you walk past it will tell you the torque, it may tell you if it's finger loose but thats all. I'm the first to admit I know very little but this thread has me even more confused than usual lol. It appears that there is a lot of reading information into the post that I can't find written and I'm asking how this is determined, I'm always trying to learn.
NJT,
You completely misunderstood me. I never said anything about not torquing them. My point was simply, guys ram them on with 1" guns, and then they put a torque wrench on them, and don't have to do anything because they are already overtightened. My IR thundergun goes up to roughly 500lbs and I use that to run the nuts on, and torque wrench after that.
God bless,
John
Just pulled the e car over in Memphis on the way to Texas, on my return to Chicago and the bus I plan on getting all 10 changed.
I was just told by phone that number 1 discussion at the CVC rally was over tightening of Lug nuts. From what was agreed to by ALL was not to EVER let the tyre shop use the 1" impact to pull the 1000lb torque on them. But to torque them at between 400 and 500lbs.
I believe what Dallas was said about them starting out overstretched is correct. But I failed to keep a close enough eye on any changes that occurred.
Thanks Guys
John
I've had my problems with 1" air wrenches set too high, as well. Most shops have tolerated going easy with the 1" wrenches, but one did not. This was a tire shop in Longview, WA, where the worker refused to pay any attention to what I wanted.
We carry the necessary bars and sockets to remove and tighten the nuts and studs IF they have not been abused.
One shop in Redding, CA, made a point of showing me that the air pressure was regulated and set to deliver less than 600 foot pounds.
Many seem to think that they can't hurt the studs and nuts by hammering on them.
For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey
Cody,
DOT does not require Haz Mat Drivers to look at tires and wheels every 2 hours to determine the amount of torque on the studs, only that they have some. The idea is to catch flat tires before they start smoking or throw pieces into traffic and to catch loose wheels before they leave the vehicle.
Each wheel is held on by 10 studs in most cases. If the hardware is comming loose, nuts will one at a time leave the vehicle and if you look you can see missing hardware. I think DOT feels that under all but the most extreme situations it takes more than 100 miles or 2 hours for all the hardware to fail and for the wheel to become airborne.
If drivers properly inspect their tires and visually inspect their hardware, highway safety can be greatly inhanced. I have caught my share, but I have also had them caught by enforcement at weigh stations. Thats expensive, Out of Service, Wait for Service Truck, Pay Fine....
We do break a few studs from time to time, but by far the greatest issue killing studs is cross threading and loss of threads. If you trash the threads on one lug, remove and replace the wheel, its impossible to not put a damaged lug on a good stud and a ruin the threads on a good lug buy putting it on a damaged stud. The next time you do that tire/wheel, it becomes a nightmare of stripped threads and the damage again likely doubles.
The next thing that happens is that the nuts don't want to come off with the tire gun. Thats when you hear the tire man beating the lug to death, only he's not trying to tighten it he's trying to get it off. Maybe he is polite and keeps his mouth shut, but he knows you are running on borrowed time.
When I do tires I take the time to look at each set of threads. Thats 40 sets of threads for each set of duals with stud piloted wheels. If I find even one set thats damaged, I replace the stud, or throw away the lug and or nut and replace them with new hardware. If I don't do it here then I will end up paying someone $100 an hour or more to do it somewhere down the road, and thats just not a good way to stay in business.
Overtightening doesn't damage threads, you stretch the stud and it breaks off clean. That is pretty damn rare even with quality 1 inch tire guns, but it does happen. I don't see how anyone is going to change world wide accepted tire practices at this point in time, the 1 inch tire gun is the industry standard and has stood the test of time for many years.
So guys, I have $1,000,000 Regular Liability and another $2,000,000 General Liability that follows me around both with the business and the Silver Eagle. Its there to protect my assets if and when the worst should ever happen. I guess if you are also insured up to/over the value of your assets, you can run your tires/wheels and or any other of your responsibilities any way that you want to, including loose if you feel thats the way to go. I have yet to have a piece of equiptment tied up at an Inspection Station for a tight wheel though and expect that I never will...
Impact wrenches damage threads.
Ever wonder why the instructions tell you not to use them on gear pullers & spring compressors?
If you think over tightening the nuts doesn't hurt anything, you don't understand what is happening at the thread level between the nut & stud.
A stud will stretch only so far before its length is permanently altered. When this happens, the thread pitch is different where it stretched.
This is why there is a torque specification. Ever wonder why, sometimes, a nut is snug all the way off? It is because the stud stretched & pulled some of the nut's threads with it causing the nut to have inconsistent pitch of the threads from one end to the other.
In designing a threaded connection, it is generally accepted that only 3 threads carry the load. This is due to this change in thread pitch when the stud stretches. Once the stud or nut yields, the joint strength is gone.
Stud piloted wheels are more sensitive to installation abuse than the newer hub piloted wheels.
On stud piloted wheels, over tightening the wheels crushes metal out from under the nut, reducing the strength of the wheel & reducing the capacity of the stud to accommodate thermal expansion.
Also, the studs are smaller on a stud piloted dual wheel setup . . . .
Garages & tire shops use impact wrenches for a reason - time = $$$ & most customers are looking only at the initial cost. Add to that the fact that replacing wheel studs is a billable line item. . . . just try to explain why you're charging an extra couple of hours just to hand tighten the wheels - most customers would badmouth you for padding the bill!
Look at how many don't pay for new valve stems. . . .
General practiced methods aren't always the best way to proceed.
Sad but true. . . . .
And another thing,
If a nut is tough coming off, throw it away, it is past it's usefull life. Mark the stud & try a new nut on it - if it runs all the way down by hand, the stud is still serviceable. If you find a tight spot, the stud is past it's usefull life & should also be replaced. Easy enough, don't you think? 8)
Me thinks replacing studs while the wheels are already off at the shop is whole lots more efficient than waiting for the mood to strike while traveling . . . :(
Anytime I can't run the nuts down by hand, I know they NEED replacing. I also know that if I reuse them, I'm increasing the damage to the studs . . . . which I'm told are really hard to get for my bus . . . :P
Oh, BTW, when you tighten a nut, as the stud stretches, its diameter gets smaller. A smaller diameter equals less strength equals less holding capacity.
Still think ignoring the factory recommended torque specifications is a smart idea? :-[
Just because the factory design & specifications have a margin of safety is no reason to treat them with contempt. ;)
I'm a tool junkie :o, so I bought a torque multiplier off eBay. Easy to use & I like the way it slowly eases up on the torque. Easy to 'feel' the condition of the assembly - it should seat & then uniformly run up to specified torque value. If you have 1 or 2 that take more turns than the others, those have a problem which is likely a stretched stud . . . . Time to re-think replacing a few studs. It can be a real bitch if the stud breaks on a stud piloted outer wheel . . . . . :(
A most important factor here is the vehicle we are working on. I have Class 8 trucks and similar equiptment on my bus and that is the only equiptment that I am talking about. Tools designed and used for specific uses.
Many have stick and staple coaches, some built on chassis as light as 1 ton truck chassis. To use a commercial tire gun on this kind of equiptment would be a huge misuse of tools and would lead to a failure real soon.
The same tire man, (myself included), that does my heavy equiptment with the 1 inch gun always uses a torque wrench to do my little tires. If he showed up at my one ton dualy, or the Toyota shop truck with a one inch gun, I'd kick his butt.
Quote from: kyle4501 on July 20, 2009, 02:19:32 PM
Garages & tire shops use impact wrenches for a reason - time = $$$ & most customers are looking only at the initial cost. Add to that the fact that replacing wheel studs is a billable line item. . . . just try to explain why you're charging an extra couple of hours just to hand tighten the wheels - most customers would badmouth you for padding the bill!
I would be finding a new tire shop if they charged a couple of hours to hand tighten lug nuts! I believe a bus has 80 lugnuts so it shouldn't take more than an hour additional at the most. They could still use the air gun to tighten them most of the way.
Tightening one to ~500 ft-lbs takes some effort & time.
Mine has stud piloted wheels, & 10 tires, that is 100 nuts to tighten. I don't know about you, but I'm gonna need a break or two. ;)
There was a tire store in town about 20 years ago that hand tightened all wheels & used a torque wrench. Then someone else came after them to check the torque of each nut. It took almost an hour on my car (20 nuts at ~ 80 ft-lbs). Their work quality was awesome, but they weren't in business for long!
The point wasn't so much about the actual time required to do it, but the added cost that few would want to pay.
I know I'm being overly anal about this, maybe it's because I understand what is going on & how the system works,
but . . . .
I have worked with commercial tire shops. You may be surprised at how many there don't know what the output torque is of the impact wrench they are using.
How many realize an impact wrench puts out more torque CCW than CW? Makes a difference on the left hand threads used with stud piloted wheels.
Speaking of left handed threads, how many know why they are used on stud piloted & not in hub piloted wheels?
Quote from: kyle4501 on July 21, 2009, 11:10:27 AM
Tightening one to ~500 ft-lbs takes some effort & time.
Sure does. Especially if you don't hammer them up pretty tight with the rattle gun before you start using the 4 foot wrench. If you are working alone and half-assed out of shape - like me for instance - it will take about an hour just to put the duals back on. A simple retorquing takes around an hour to do the whole coach by the time you pull and replace all the beauty nuts and it will get you surprisingly warm on a halfways hot day.
I have to comment. I haven't seen a tire shop guy with an airgun without a torque limiting extension in several years. But my local tire shop - the same guy who stores my off season tires for free, who mounts all my odd-ball race tires for free, who when I show up with a screw in the tread and late for an airplane ride has me repaired and on my way in 20 minutes - for free - does up every single lug in his shop with a torque wrench AND gives you a reminder card to come back in 100 miles and get them re-torqued - for free...
Plus he has the best prices in town by a long shot, cheaper than ordering on the internet too. He gets about 100% repeat business, and is very successful. Old fashioned, just the way I like it!
If there were any other busnuts in Dundas Ontario, I'd tell you to patronize dundas TireCraft, but i don't believe there are any others here. Although I did see another MCI the other day...
Brian
I don't dispute that quality shops exist, I just don't think they are very common. :(
I also don't think many understand how to properly use their tools, especially if they don't understand how the tool works.
One thing most people don't realize, including a lot of techs, is that torque sticks are designed for a limited amount of torque input.
Meaning, if you use too large of an impact gun with too high of a setting then they will still overtorque the wheels and potentially cause damage.
From a torque stick website:
WARNING: Torque sockets and truck torque extensions cannot be used to take off wheel nuts. Calibrate your impact gun and follow all manufacturers' recommended procedures when using Torque Master products.
Ask the tire shops that use torque sticks if they have calibrated their impact gun.
If you are concerned, take your own torque wrench & go behind them to see what the torque is. My experience is why I'm such a skeptic. . . .
Quote from: kyle4501 on July 21, 2009, 11:10:27 AM
...
Speaking of left handed threads, how many know why they are used on stud piloted & not in hub piloted wheels?
I'll bite. Why ???
Left threads are used on the left side with stud piloted wheels because IF the nut were to become loose, the movement (in the ball seat area) between the nut & wheel won't cause further loosening if the wheel is rotating in the same direction to tighten the nut.
Loose wheel is better than no wheel . . . . but will soon become a no wheel situation if not addressed. . .
Hub piloted wheels have a flat flange interface between the nut & wheel that acts differently, hence the rotation direction doesn't matter.
The other reason I've heard is that it is a conspiracy to allow the tire shops to charge more $$$ :o ;D
Kyle, is it possible that Al Gore invented the lug nut while dreaming up the internet? May explain the different and sometimes confusing options. John
Kyle you are not old enough to have had a 1958 Pontiac . first car I was around with left handed lug nuts
Maybe you have been around some british cars with wire wheels. The nut has directions and arrows on them.
uncle ned
I do have a '52 L110 international pickup, does that count? ;)
Why is it that some of you guys just can't leave your right wing politics out of this forum? It really gets tiresome, especially when most of it is pure bull.
My '67 Barracuda had L/R lugs and some service station kid was always breaking my lug bolts trying to remove LH wheels.
My 4104 had the two front wheel hubs reversed when I got it, the LH lugs are on the RH side. I assume that happened when the brake drums were replaced before I bought it. The good news is that I've had absolutely no problems with them in three years and 45,000 mo.
Gus
Thanks everyone for your input, especially Mike from Chicargo who offer to come and help.
Well we got everything back together and are back on the road, Complete with 10 new studs,10 new inner and outer nuts and one very expensive new Alcoa rim.
When it was time to undo the nuts and studs that did hold they were all stretched from over tightening, Dallas you were correct. I know there are several schools of thought but from what I saw the GUN that did this damage was running 1000lbs plus. I dont care what anyone says the shops I use Will use a toque wrench or will allow me to toque my own.
John.
PS MCI had the studs, they were priced at $33,50 each the back up lock nuts were $7.50 each that is $400.00 for one wheel. I used a diffrent supplier at $130.00 for one wheel. The only reason i bring this up is that we should get a aftermarket part# so we can always shop for parts.
John thats great that your back on the road, the windows seem to be much happier when they are in motion lol, you should take them to see arizona next lol.
John,
Nice to hear you are back on the road and are heading west!
May good travels guide you safely.
Paul
John, I don't know how you are going to AZ. If you get near Colorado You and Tami are welcome to stay at the house. Only problem your bus might not start sitting next to an Eagle over night. But you have already passed the test in LA.
Safe travels Wayne