One of my tag axle release valves is leaking and so is the driver's side rear levelling valve. Can these be rebuilt? If so, can the parts be easily obtained? I have some very good o-ring suppliers in the area. Thanks!
Glenn
You have nothing to lose by taking them apart to see. The worst that happens is that you can't rebuild them, and have to replace them -- which is exactly where you are if you don't try to rebuild them.
Are you talking about the regulator on the firewall, or the value, on the wheel well. You may wish to spray some soapy water on the regulators. I had to rebuild mine. Was easy with a rebuild kit.
Bill
Two issues for rebuilding:
Is your time/materials to do the re-build worth the savings? (spraying your favorite can of solvent spray gobbles up the savings in a hurry!) Very few valves get re-built in the commercial world any more, costs more to rebuild than to replace with off the shelf.
And do you know how to condemn the re-usable parts as being too worn, corroded or otherwise out of spec to be returned to service with a re-build kit?
Back a bunch of years ago when I did the tag axle regulators, the rebuild kit was $22, a new regulator was $44. I didn't spend as much time thinking about it as I did typing it. With new regulators, I know their age and have less fear that the repair will have to be done again due to my screw up!
Remember the next time!!! Use your favorite anti-seize product on all your fastening connections.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
The usual failure of height control valves is the SIMPLE SCHRADER VALVEs (input and exhaust) inside - very easy to replace - caution there is a viscous liquid (usually silicon) inside a chamer to add delay to the valve action - leave that part alone
The input valve is usually under the top cover and the exhaust valve is behind the exhaust port screen and fitting
Bill,
I am talking about the tag air release valve on the wheel well behind the tag wheel. That one I can hear leak and can control it a little by wiggling the lever.
BW,
You may very well be right, and that's why I'm asking. If these are easily done (as it sounds like the leveling valve may be (thanks Daytona)) I'll give it a stab.
Daytona,
I'll give that a try. I have few old bike tubes laying around! ;D
Thanks!
Glenn
Hi;
For my 2cents worth, I also would take one apart and
check it out. On my MC-7, I believe the unloader valves
are made of brass. Rust and corrosion should not be
an issue.
Good luck
Merle.
My first and probably last attempt to rebuild a valve was the purge valve on my air dryer. It purged continuously after the rebuild was done.
I thought I was getting a remanufactured valve when I placed the order, but I got a rebuild kit instead. I ended up being lucky enough to find a remanufactured 24 volt valve locally.
On the quick and dirty list...
Try putting the air tool oil of your choice into an offending valve to see if you might rescue some functionality. Don't use a solvent type, that won't help after the coach sits again.
We have no idea the age of the valves in our old coaches, its state of lube, or how it has been mistreated. The offending valve might be leaking or malfunctioning by way of sticky movement internally, and nothing is wrong with the seals.
Air brake antifreeze/alchohol is notorious for rinsing the lube out and then you get sticking from non-use.
You have to take the airlines off it to remove it anyway... so put some lube, slap it back together and see what happens. Go easy on the control lines, you want the lube in the parts that the air flows through, not presses against, if you know what I mean. Not as much in a control cavity to stick as on the business side. Watch you don't spray yourself in the face by way of oil mist out the exhausts of the valving as you try this out.
Might not work forever, but who knows?
happy coaching!
buswarrior
As an update,
Mohawk does not carry the manual tag dump valves, but Luke at US coach does. They currently are 68.04 ea.
Mohawk carries the leveling valves for about 40 each ( I can't lay my hands on the reciept).
It all went together smoothly!
Glenn
A better question is whether you actually NEED them!
There are a lot of things on coaches in service that we don't need after conversion. The tag axle valves may be two of those things. If so, you can either cap them ($2) or couple them permanently to the lines ($4), depending on how they are normally connected.
After getting stuck in the mud once and camping in sand, etc, YES, I think I need them. :) The old ones were whipped. The slightest touch on the lever and they would leak. So, I expect that any bumps would cause leaks.
Glenn