I'll start a new thread rather than hi-jacking a similiar one.
I have been having an issue with a brand new Carrier 13,500 A/C unit I installed. Work great when it works but shuts down way before it cools the bus cools off. I find when I hold the bubble with my hand and heat it up it starts to work. Shortly after I let go it shuts down again. I have tried moving the bubble and some times it runs a little longer than others but all in all it just isn't preforming. There are only so many places these bubbles can be mounted, I pushed mine right back into the eletrical box where the temp control switch and fan switch is located, works better but not what I expected. Everyone tell me these units will freeze us out but I just can't see it. Any thoughts?
Grant
Can a RV shop in your area service it under MFR. Warranty? There is a problem with the unit. If you "fix" it you will just be working around the problem.
HTH,
John
Grant,
Keep in mind if you "fix" it and there are still problems with the unit you may have voided any manufacturer's warranty on the unit. That is kinda like being up the proverbial creek without a paddle.
Just my two cents worth.
I feel your pain.
As I understand it, the sensor should be in the return air stream. That is how it senses the room temperature. If the return air reaches your thermostat set point, the compressor should shut down. It should go back on when the return air temp rises a bit. If the sensor is placed in such a way that it is sensing the supply air, which could be below 50 degrees, it may shut down rather quickly. The logic would be that the machine "thinks" the room is 50 degrees. I do not know how cold it would have to be for the t-stat to stop cycling, but if the return air is above 70, there should be no doubt that it should be keeping the compressor going at the highest cooling setting. If it still cycles, it seems you have a defective t-stat. If under warranty, great. If not, it seems like a relatively easy fix.
Hi Grant,
Lin hit it on the nose... I have come across many Customers that removed the ceiling cover themselves and somehow knock the sensing bulb
out of place. Then when putting the cover back on, and the sensing bulb would end up in the supply air.??
If not, you could have either a faulty freeze stat or a faulty thermostat.
Good Luck
Nick-
I've found that many of the thermostats that they ship with roof airs are just junk, and they don't work right out of the box quite often (as in 2 out of 4 roof air's I've purchased)
So I just said to heck with them and bought industrial thermostats (from ebay, for example one just like this- Item number: 380126486743 ), mounted them in the room and them up to bypass the AC's factory thermostat. Works wonders! No more mussing around whth junk....
I had a similar situation happen with one of my three Coleman roof top 13,500btu/hr A/C's. Two out of the three cooled just fine but the front one (and of course the one that you want to cool the most) didn't cool down as much. I inspected all three and the thermostatic bulb was in the same location. What I did was to wrap the bulb with one layer of electrical tape making a bit of insulation from the cold to make the thermostat think it wasn't as cold as it should be and voila! it cools as well as the others. That was 14 years ago and still works great. This trick would be a good one, since if you do have problems in the future, you could unwrap the bulb without being suspect with any warranty claims. Good Luck, TomC
My ceiling isn't completely finished and I have issues with cold air leaking back to the return and occasionally shutting off the compressor early. (I really need to add at least temporary plywood under the A/C units.)
Carrier now makes a non-ducted ceiling assembly designed to take a seperate thermostat. I intend to replace my ceiling assemblies at some point.
Thanks for all of your replies. I have tried the tape trick and it does help. May it's just too dam cold up here in the great white north!