I have a trace RV 3012 inverter and its all hooked up. Works sweet! Although it is hooked up with 000 wire even though it calls for 0000. I hardly think I will ever use all 3000 watts though.
I am having trouble finding a 300 amp 12V switch for my main disconnect and a 400 amp fuse that will work with my 000 wire.
Can anyone recommend a web site? Camping world does not have anything close to this.
Also.... can I build a enclosed battery box that is air tight? or do the batteries have to breathe?
What you need is a battery cut-off switch and a 400Amp T-fuse and holder.
I carry them, but you can find the fuse you need here...
http://tekrispower.com/inverters/product_info.php/products_id/133
and you can find the switch you need here:
http://www.tekrispower.com/inverters/index.php/cPath/78_80?osCsid=bbb182a0de29388edc261b771e74a896
by the way, the price for the 300A or 400A is the same and the chances are, you WILL use 400 amps at some point if the inverter is built for it.
I used a large breaker from a UPS for my inverter. A friend had dismantled a large UPS and gave me the 225 amp DC breaker (I have 24 volt.). It handles the overload protection and the switch all in one.
Oregon, YES you DO need to vent your battery box.>>>Dan
Thanks! Is it ok to have batteries in the same compartment as the generator? How much of a vent do I need? like a couple 1" holes per battery?
Keep in mind that wet cell batteries give off a very explosive gas, don't put your batteries near an ignition source. Any build-up of gas is VERY corrosive so if possible coat the inside of your battery box with polyurethan paint or other corrosive retardant coating.>>>Dan
I found the 300 amp fuses at a marine store for alot less than at an electrical outlet or an RV shop.
I think I may have some new fuses and fuse holders if your interested!
Ace
Don't skimp on the cable size ! If it calls for 4/0 there is a reason. I used 3/0 to begin with and had hot cables at times. I switched to 4/0 and cables stayed cool. It cost me moor than if I had used the correct size to begin with. Marc
I have used this holder and fuse for many years with no problem!!
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/357904/377%20710/0/fuse/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=fuse&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuse&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=14180
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/16038/377%20710/0/anl%20fuse/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=anl%20fuse&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=anl%20fuse&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295
For a switch
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/244583/377%20710/0/battery%20switch/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=battery%20switch&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=battery%20switch&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=297
HTH JIm
Go to a Cat dealer buy a battery disconnect switch from a piece of their equipment they are rated for 500 amps cost around 60 bucks good luck
Quote from: Marcus on May 16, 2009, 05:43:59 AM
Don't skimp on the cable size ! If it calls for 4/0 there is a reason. I used 3/0 to begin with and had hot cables at times. I switched to 4/0 and cables stayed cool. It cost me moor than if I had used the correct size to begin with. Marc
I plan on switching to 0000 too.
OC,
I haven't looked at what people have recommended here or the sites they listed. Personally, I would deal with board members if I could. My advice to friends is: You don't have to be cheaper.....just close. Food for thought.
I went thru what you are doing a while back when I installed my inv. I found that ebay had a lot of fuses available in the 3 or 4 hundred amp range. All were mounted to an insulator board and had mounting holes and the fuse was attached by brass hardware. I have never seen a fuse in my life that had a rating for surge AND continuous current draw. Seemed very odd to me but I have led a sheltered life. Problem was I was looking for a 300 amp fuse and I found a few that met that requirement till I read deep into the description and read stuff like "300 amp for 5 minutes sustained load". Almost bought one of those. Be careful! The variance in price was HUGE. RV Surplus, here in Eugene, wanted $60 for one.....I didn't leap at that offer. Let your fingers do the walking.
Don't be tempted to use fine strand, easily bent/manipulated, "welding cable". The fine strands will eat thru in short order if you get into a corrosive environment. Just figure the odds on that EVER happening. Use the house wire stranded stuff. The wrong application material is never a "good deal" or cost effective.
Cole Hersey makes the really high current switches for vehicles. That could give you a part number to search for on ebay as well as a industry description.
There is a "coating" called Liquid Tape that is used by electricians to insulate stuff. It is also a great moisture and vapor barrier that will prevent corrosion and such. Leave no wire threads exposed from the solder on lugs that you will use. Use only rosin core solder suitable for electronic/electrical applications. NEVER...NEVER use plumbers solder and paste on electrical.
Smear all of your high current connections....bolt together....with silicone paste. The electrical supply house has it for greasing copper to aluminum joinings. Ever see what the electrolysis does to wires? That grease prevents that and also insures that the "quality" of the connections lasts.
HTH,
John
Dallas,
I didn't know that you had this kind of stuff for sale. I would have checked with you first if I had. Sorry!
John
I carry lots of different RV stuff, but don't advertise... we are just starting and haven't set up the infrastructure yet, plus, we haven't paid MAK for advertising.