trying to reroute my cooling on my mci 5, is it ok to use the pvc pipe that you get from home depot, will it withstand the heat and pressure, thanks for you input, ken, im talking about the 2 inch diameter pipe from the rads to the block
PVC pipe cannot take that temperature. That is why hot water would use CPVC - but CPVC does not come in large sizes.
(I tried PVC in 190 degree temperatures, and I had leaking.)
Ed Roelle
I wouldn't trust PVC to take the long term vibration either.
I am pretty sure that CPVC (the plastic pipe that is rated for hot water) has a max temp of 180. I would never trust any plastic pipe with something as important as engine cooling. Might save a few bucks on plumbing and have to buy a new engine. Jack
Why not copper?
You may be able to get away with rubber hose for the whole thing.
Why not use stainless automotive exhaust tubing ,bend it any shape you need it. most muffler shops have a pipe bender. Glen
No good. Stick with Copper. M&C
Hello :
Copper or brass in my opinion.
You might be able to find scrap fittings in the junk yard. I would replace all hose with new. CLamps are especially pricy so finding them in the junk yard is a plus..
Regards and happy bussin mike
If you are going to be doing some major replumbing of the engine cooling system you may want to check on the coolant hoses Daniel McMurphy has for sale in the BCM classifieds. They are brand new hose material and priced well below retail I believe. Plus it goes to a good cause.
http://www.busconversions.com/bcmclassifieds/classified.php?n=54
http://www.busconversions.com/bcmclassifieds/classified.php?n=53
http://www.busconversions.com/bcmclassifieds/classified.php?n=55
You still probably need copper pipe for a lot of the system, but then you'll need some of this hose material for connections.
i have tried to buy the hoses from the daniel murphy page, but it says there is a problem with the sellers email, who should i try to contact
I would encourage the fabrication of some metal pipe to go with some short pieces of clamped, straight "hose of your choice" pieces, same as stock.
There will be vendors in your area that fabricate replacement cooling pipes for the big trucks, as they are made of steel and rot out periodically in that duty cycle. Custom pipes is their thing.
Big Transit here, have often fabricated copper pipes as modifications to poor stock designs.
The elbows and pipe stock available at a well stocked plumbing vendor of your choice. Same as plumbing the house, proper prep, more prep, then some prep, and away you go!
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Quote from: mccarlk on April 12, 2009, 07:06:36 AM
i have tried to buy the hoses from the daniel murphy page, but it says there is a problem with the sellers email, who should i try to contact
I found the problem. There was a typo in the email address.
So, if you use copper pipe in a cooling system, is conventional sweat soldering OK or should you use silver solder?
Conventional household solder will be just fine unless you plan on running steam through your pipes.
Water anti freeze combo "should" never get above 250 degrees at sea level
HTH
YMMV
Melbo
I'd prefer exhaust pipe bend with good quality steel over soldered copper. As long as antifreeze is in the cooling system, exhaust pipe tubing will not rust. It is easily bent for the application, about any size is available, cheap, and readily available anywhere. Soldered joints on a diesel engine scare the poopy out of me. Although, I've seen them work and last....still scare me. Straight sections of copper pipe are great, but if you want a bend, exhaust pipe material will work better. If you want some abstract bend, exhaust tubing is perfect.
I've used exhaust tubing for all sorts of 'hot rod' applications, some even acid dipped for chrome, with nary an issue. I've got an Astro V8 conversion that has 9 year old steel tubing in the cooling system. NO problemo!
One other issue, rough up the ends and use good quality clamps on smooth pipe. Mark the hose connection so you can see if any movement occurs. You can weld on 'retainer' bumps on both steel and copper for better hose retention. Hoses will slide off smooth metal tubing.
While PVC isn't a cool idea, almost any steel or copper will make a workmanlike fix. Steel and copper won't reduce the ID of the tubing either, unlike PVC.
JR
Just to clarify, in the truck applications using steel pipe in the cooling plumbing, the pipes rust from the outside in, exposed to the road spray under the front and kicked up by the steer tires.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Quote from: buswarrior on April 15, 2009, 11:42:09 PM
Just to clarify, in the truck applications using steel pipe in the cooling plumbing, the pipes rust from the outside in, exposed to the road spray under the front and kicked up by the steer tires.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
Maybe it would be useful to paint them with brake drum paint (on the outside of the pipe of course). The paint is rated for up to 350°, doesn't require primer, doesn't have to be baked on, and comes in several colors including a nice bright silver. For that matter, the same could be said for engine paint as well (I have just really taken a liking to the silver brake drum paint for its brightness and durability.)
How about a nice powdercoat? After bending of course.
JR