My driver's side window leaks pretty badly due to the window being racked in the opening. The aluminum side of the bus is cracked below the window which is what is causing the window to rack.
The frame of the window is held in by a large rubber seal/gasket. The window is about 3 feet wide and 4 to 5 feet tall. What is the best way to remove the window to repair the opening? Could a glass shop remove and reinstall the window?
I was going to take the bus to a large Bus body shop locally, but they closed the Minnesota location.
I've changed my rear window two times in the past year (don't ask!!) but, so far, no side ones.
I found it is much easier to just cut out the old gaskets, by that I mean more than five or so years old. They get so hard that you end up breaking the glass trying to get it out.
In your case the glass is broken anyway but I still recommend cutting the gasket if it is old. Some old gaskets even crack so badly that cutting out is your only choice.
Any auto glass company should be able to do this job but it is probably a good idea for you to get the gasket before you go there if it is an odd ball like most older buses.
Yeah, Gus make a good point when suggesting get the parts before cutting anything.
I'd bet a good window shop could pull it right out.
Don't know Bo about a Dina, but you may want to pull back the inside rubber moulding and check for retaining screws...if there's an aluminum frame. If no frame, probably just the rubber holds it in place.
I wouldn't cut the moulding until the 'experts' look at it. You may find that even poor rubber seals are better than back-ordered (or made from unobtainium) window seals.
The glass guys can fix it! Replacing large glass panels is better left to experts. Too easy to break the glass while trying to get that last 1" in place...BTDT.
JR
The aluminum window frame itself is mounted in the rubber seal so not much chance of breaking the window. Silly way to do things if you ask me. I will call MCI to see if they still have the rubber seal before doing anything.
A couple of other busnuts have suggested I just remove the existing window, frame in for a new window, and then skin the exterior. I'm trying to avoid the $400 to $500 cost for another Motion Window, but that would be the best solution for an air and water tight window. The existing window has portions blacked out so it wouldn't hurt to go with a smaller window.
Belfert, use a heat gun to warm up the rubber moulding before trying to remove it. Stop and reheat it at regular intervals while working it. It should be hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch when working it. Heat will help when installing new mouldings as well. john