I am sure this has been creeping up for a while, but on this last trip I noticed that the clutch did not seem to have any free-play. Also shifting has been becoming more rough. I want to adjust it even though I suspect that I may have worn it down. Anyway, what is there is not the same as my manual shows. The manual shows two nuts at opposite ends of a "tee" that get adjusted. What is there though is what looks like the handle of a gate valve at the top only as you can see in the pictures. Is anyone familiar with this and how does it adjust? Thanks
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Here's what the tag says
Clutch Adjustment Instructions
Lift and Tighten Adjusting handle
Until pressure is felt.
Back Off 1 full turn using key numbers on hand wheel
As a guide and drop handle down on the lock.
Note: Adjusting handle located behind alternator.
Of coarse you should have proper linkage adjustment first.
I don't have that data plate so this is helpful to me also. The key word being lift while you turn. It must lock in position when it is lowered? Lin maybe it is not locking?
On the subject of clutch linkage anyone have a source for the ball rod ends?
Thanks Ed,
That's is exactly how it works. My book shows something totally different. This is actually a lot easier. The hardest part was getting to it since my air filter takes up that whole side. I guess I will take it out and see if there are still shift issues now. I assume that somewhere along the line the original style was changed over to this one. Fortunately, up until now the book has been accurate.
I took it for a ride, and it can go through the gears. The only thing is that it seems very difficult to get a peaceful shift-- there is almost always some grinding. It is always possible it is all my fault, but I have been driving this for about 2000 miles, and it seems worse than even when I first started driving it. Are these signs of a terminal clutch?
Quote from: Lin on April 03, 2009, 05:46:21 PM
I took it for a ride, and it can go through the gears. The only thing is that it seems very difficult to get a peaceful shift-- there is almost always some grinding. It is always possible it is all my fault, but I have been driving this for about 2000 miles, and it seems worse than even when I first started driving it. Are these signs of a terminal clutch?
Read RJ's article on shifting and if that doesn't work then it is broken.
shifting those spicers is an art.
I thought I had it down pretty well
My girlfriend said she would pay to change the standard to an automatic
I guess I wasn't as good as I thought
I still have that information plate on my bus but would send it to anyone who could use it (and I will pay the shipping)
I have an automatic now
Melbo
Lin,
My MC-5 has the same set up even though the manual does not show that "valve handle". Definitely pull up on the knob before turning and then push it back down and be sure its seated again. I can't remember which way you turn it but mine was at the end of its adjustment and the bus was getting harder and harder to shift. The real indicator to me was the clutch pedal got harder and harder to depress the further I pushed it down. It was like pushing against a spring.
Then I pulled the engine and replaced the clutch. Now when I push down on the pedal it gets about half way down and the air assist kicks in and it goes the rest of the way down to the floor with no additional effort. Not like before where it got harder and harder to push the further down it went. Also now it is a little easier to shift the tranny but as is mentioned above, you have to read about shifting the spicer; its not like a modern synchronized transmission. I rarely use the clutch except to get started from a stop.
I'm no clutch expert or spicer expert but I've put about 25,000 miles on this MC-5 and I know how it felt before and how it feels now. Call me if you want: 612-801-4826.
Fred
Fred,
I will give you a call tomorrow. I re-read your post from last year on this same situation. I see that you replaced the clutch over switching to an automatic. As mentioned, I did adjust the clutch and take it for a ride. Although I do not consider myself a Spicer black belt, I have been driving it for 2000 miles with only an occasional missed shift. I would be happy to blame my incompetence since it would be a lot cheaper, but it's hard to believe that I have suddenly "lost my dubious touch". The air assist sounds nice.
Melbo,
Was your girlfriend's offer exclusive, or does she want to get rid of another Spicer?
Rick,
I'm surprised that your clutch linkage is connected by ball rod ends, mine is shackles and pins?
The shackles and pins are expensive enough, I hate to think what ball rod ends will be!
It took me a while to even find shackles the right size. I eventually found them at an oil drilling supply place in LA which partly explains why they were so expensive.
Just a thought, if the clutch is properly adjusted it may be wrong level or type of oil in the spicer that makes it hard to shift. At first I had the wrong oil (looked wrong anyway) and it was a beast. Then I changed it to 50W as spec., and it was still obnoxious, then after 1000 miles it threw off a bunch of oil 'til it was about 1/2" above the low fill line, at that point it was shifting very nicely, and as others on the board have suggested I leave it there as it is above the fill line, I'm happy with the shifting. FWIW it wasn't just me getting better at shifting after 1000 miles as I had a schoolie without synchro before and while I missed the occasional shift I generally get going all right. Also my 4104 clutch feels very light to me, like a hydraulic clutch, I had a cable clutch on a volvo that was much heavier.
Lin I have never had to adjust my clutch (yet). Don't have any experience with bus clutches. As a former trucker, I know they have adjustments on the pressure plates. I personally only use my clutch for starting and stopping, if you can get the mechanics of shifting down, the clutch will need very little adjustment for years to come. BUR
Lin
I think it was mostly talk because I did not get any financial assistance when I put in the automatic but one good benefit is now she drives the bus so I can take a break.
Melbo
Zub,
Thanks for the suggestion. I checked the oil, and it is about an inch+ down from the fill hole. I wouldn't have thought that would make much of a difference, but I will fill it up.
Bur,
I never tried no clutch shifting. Maybe it is time I learn that anyway. Any tips on that?
One more question--Since getting the bus, it never has gone quietly into first from start. It always involved letting the gears gently chatter a bit to stop them. I have heard of a clutch brake, but either I do not have one, or it does not work. Is this pretty much a normal situation with the Spicer or should it slip in smoothly? This also seems to have gotten worse.
Melbo,
I will stop looking for the check. What did the change cost you? What setup did you go with?
Kind of does sound like your clutch is out of whack. Look up the specs and get the free play right, not enough free play is just as bad as too much and causes it's own troubles.....
Lin
When I did the tranny I also did the engine (L10) and air throttle integrated steering etc etc.
So the price of the tranny is lost in repower and upgrade
Melbo
Melbo,
Sounds like an amazing upgrade. I am not anywhere near making a commitment like that. If I could do the tranny for 5k, I probably would, but that is not likely. I would also switch to integral power steering, but that's about it on the major stuff.
Just for information if anyone is runs into a similar situation: After talking to Fredward I decided it was time to learn to shift without the clutch. If I had known it was so simple, I would have been doing it long ago. I don't think it would be so easy without a tach though. Since I can use the clutch to start and stop, and then shift without it, it seems that the bus could be usable this way for a while. My exercise in clutchless shifting further convince me that the clutch has problems since I can shift smoothly with the clutch as long as I am tweaking the rpm's as if I was not using it. This would seem to indicate that normal double clutching is no longer working to synch the gears. Anyway, since I do not really know much about the mechanism, my theory may be just superstition. Any expert enlightenment would be appreciated. Thanks for all the responses.