I was quoted $1,500 to run the rack on my 8v71 with jake. They are experienced with these engines and say it is a 2 day plus process. This shop was recommended by Diesel Exchange, the folks that built my engine about 50,000 miles ago.
What say you all about this cost?
No way Larry that is a 5 hr job tops good luck
I think they are trying to tell you they don't want to do it. Thats not alot of miles. Is there a reason that you want to open it up? They are not a problem in most uses.
I had my 8V71 ran last year at So. Oregon Diesel, included re-building my jake units with new springs and pistons, total $380.00. Needless to say I was very happy.>>>Dan
Do not make the mistake of ever doing business with that shop. You are now a target there.
Good luck with the rack. But what NJT said interests me....what is the interval for adjusting valves?
John
Forgot to say job took three hours.>>>Dan
I called another shop and got a better price. He said it is about 4-6 hours with the Jake. He said the first shop was probably going to use my engine as a "school" for his inexperienced mechanics.
As for why I would want to have this done, I present this to you all. I have a reman engine (Diesel Exchange) that was installed June 2002, so I have 7 years almost, on that engine, but just figured the miles on the engine and it is only 20,000. I have no symptoms. Maybe I do NOT need to do this, but I have a pretty good investment in this engine and I thought that an "adjustment" of an engine after a few miles might be in order. Contrary opinions are welcome.
Larry, you are right, an adjustment at this point is in order.>>>Dan
I disagree, respectfully. 20,000 miles is nothing for your engine. Its running well and you will possibly create many more problems by opening it up than by running it. Everything is tight and performing well. Most overhead problems happen right after they are worked on, and if a mechanic leaves something loose, then you may drop a valve or who knows what.
The first rule in diesel mechanics is if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you have money to burn, I will send you my address.
JohnEd,
I know Dave at SOD. He comes to our rallys and for the most part has been helpful and square with all of us. I have not been in his shop, because I have my own, but if I needed his help on I5 in Roseburg, I would not hesitate to stop there. He makes most of his living from the trucking industry and is very realistic cost wise when it comes to buses, as buses are a real pain to work on. Many mechanics throw a fit if a shop foreman asks them to work on a bus and cry the whole time. Heavy equiptment general shop mechanics see buses as punishment, the other mechanics laugh because you got the bus job. Not everyone likes to work on their back and bang their head all the time.
Dave has done some awesome engine conversions. They are very hard to bid because there are so many variables and its always real expensive when you start fabricating in, "make it fit situations" on buses. I know Dave well enough to know if you "need" to get running, you got help. If you have a 20,000 mile rebuild and you are talking repair with no symptoms, sort of "nonsense" issues to a pro, then he won't give you much time and may even insult you, that's his personality. Dave stays real "busy" with a back up of honest things that "have" to be fixed kind of work, and may not be looking for some kinds of work. Normally, its broke, you fix it, you get paid. Every bus is someones baby. They want you or your mechanic to coddle, (teach) them through the entire repair and take up your time as long as they are in the shop and then "sell" (justify) them the bill. Its OK if they have large breasts and nice legs, but it comes down to how many bus nuts you can afford to tutor and the longer you do this the more you just want to not see the next bus roll in the yard.
I think thats about where Dave is... I bet if you brake down and need help at SOD, Dave will get you rolling and you will be satisfied with both the repair and the fairness of the price.
I have to disagree with NJT on this, 50,000 miles on a rebuild it is time for tune up. A rebuilt engine will have some wear new parts vs old parts one is going to wear to match the other. On the overhead DD recommends you do check the overhead every 50,000 miles but they do not have a scheduled interval for tune ups good luck
Da book says only if you notice a significant decrease in power have it checked ,of course after checking air filter fuel filter(s)and don't forget the Prez says check dem dar tire pressures as well,should be like LUVRBUS says 5 Hrs on the rack unless ya run out of Heineken before the job is done LOL
The one thing I would want checked after a rebuild would be valve adjustments, they DO "SEAT IN" in the initial miles, then they will go for a very long time with no bother. Your money, your call.>>>Dan
A while back, I got the idea that I should run the rack just to know all was right. I brought it to a guy who took off the valve covers, checked the valve adjustments and whatever, He then told me everything was just as it should be and nothing needed adjustment. I think he charged me for a half hour. On the one hand, I could say I wasted a little money. But on the other, I now feel comfortable that I am not leaving something important undone.
NJT,
Enjoyed your post. I agree with your first rule, for sure. If I am paying a shop....no doubt.
It was claimjumper that brought up SOD but I know Dave also. My experience with him has been very good but limited. He has a sense of humor and likes subtle humor and sarcasm, as do I. I had the feeling that he could be a little harsh but it was only a feeling. Another Knut told me that the reviews about Dave were just a little mixed but that he never heard the guy didn't do excellent work or charge fairly. I guess it must be that he doesn't suffer fools lightly....but then neither do I. Thanks for your opinion.
Dave once showed me a bus with an engine that had sheared the cam drive gear. He said "probably a couple valves in there that need replaced" with a dead pan expression. See what I mean?
John
JohnEd, you right about David Gregory he can be a little harsh with people sometimes I seen it before.I have used him for repairs for 15 years when he was in the old building with no customers he would cater to the bus crowd but it is not that way any longer now he is just rude to people with buses.I still stop and visit with him,Dennis and Jerry but I do not ask them to do any repairs for me any longer good luck
Luvr,
Thank you for that update. It has been years since I had the occasion to visit the shop. At that time there were two buses in there for major stuff and one had the engine out. Both families were living there till the repairs were done. It is sad if Dave has soured....really sad. Six or eight months ago there were six buses on his property. Today, I saw only one and it was back behind some trucks.
Who do you recommend on the I 5 corridor between Roseburg and Portland?
thanks,
John
When running my 8V-92TA in my truck, I would run the rack every 100,000mi-and even at that, was not really that bad. Would have it done at Delaney and Ahlff (sp?) in Bakersfield-even though it was a 250mile round trip for me. A precision valve adjust, rack adjust and injector setting is paramount to a well running engine. Good Luck, TomC
Tom, what are your thought on routine tuneups on a Series 60? I paid Interstate Detroit Diesel $295 for a tuneup just because I am pretty sure it had never been done in 350,000 miles, but not sure if I need to have it done on a routine basis.
I believe it was supposed to include adjusting the Jake, but the Jake doesn't work any better and I'm not sure my Jake works as well as other have reported. I suppose I should have someone who has driven other buses with Series 60s and Jakes take my bus out for a spin.
Ideally on a rebuild I like to set the valves a couple thousands loose. Seat time is important to new valves, it helps them cool and seat if they have a little more seat time. I usually just use a cold set on a warm engine, (you can't get on top of the mountain "hot" in the shop anyway and that is what I feel is a true hot set). When I set engines up like that I try to get them back in the shop around 20,000 miles and put a true cold set on the valves. This procedure will point you to any trouble areas because all the valves should need to be tightened slightly and if something needs to be loosened then I need to find out why.
Slightly loose valves will not hurt anything, tight valves will not seat and then they burn. Every mechanic is different. They can use the same feeler gauges and they can have two very different feels. If you want racing performance, set them exact and tight. If you want service, set them a little loose and set the jam nuts real tight.
A trip to the shop with a good running engine can backfire easily so make sure you know what you want and hope thats what you get, or just do it yourself, then you know exactly what you have.
NJT,
I once voiced that opinion about the rack and savvy people told me I was nuts cause to run the rack you NEED a couple thousand worth of tools....as in special wrenches from DD. Were they wrong? "Say it ain't so, Joe. Say it ain't so." Be sure that I don't know what is needed but I have nearly every tool in the book.
Thanks,
John
Series 60 should have the valves, injector and jake clearances checked every 100,000 miles. Since your Jake doesn't feel any different, then they were probably close to being in adjustment anyway. Good Luck, TomC
John,
In their day the 2 strokes were probably the best thing going. Simple, reliable, easy to tune up and repair. Parts are still easy to find. The only "special" tool is an injector timing tool and any old 2 stroke mechanic probably has more than 3 laying around.
Used to use a grinder on the end of the rack arm to get some extra RPMs, but nothing special or expensive about that.
Once they are properly tuned the first time, alot of them didn't see a mechanic for a long time. I recently parted a KW to get the 8V/71 TA that has been in service in my local fleet for use in my friends 05. I bought that truck just for the engine to put in the 05 when I owned it and Chris wanted it so I gave it to him. It was running well and we didn't even think about pulling the valve covers and I know it has not been touched in 10 years.
We ran it up Tiger Mountain last week. I think it would have gone over the top in high gear, but it started putting out white smoke at low RPM in 4th so we dropped a gear. Don't think the smoke is rack related so it probably won't get tuned up now either. Likely just old fuel and I don't think Chris changed the filters yet either, so....
When we go over Tiger Mountain we are in the slow lane with the 4 way flashers on. :) 8V71 no turbo.