Sorry to bother you guys with this once again , however I want to run a fuel line from my bus tank for my diesel heaters. What is the simplest way to hook into the tank that won't interfere with the operation of the bus. I do want to be able to use these heaters while running the bus. I see 2 lines on the top right of the tank , can I splice into one of these?
1984 mc9
thanks
It's possible to tap into your existing lines, but not recommended, especially if you have a mechanical engine (the pump isn't great at priming of air gets into the supply line between the tank and the filters...). At a minimum, you will also want to have two check-valves at the split to keep each device from sucking the fuel back from the other device (i.e. you don't want the heaters to suck the fuel out of the filters for the engine - a check valve will keep the fuel being sourced from one location).
Also you want to ensure your fittings are air-tight, or you can let air bubbles in that may break the tank suction from the pump. One of the hoses is the supply, the other is a return. Be sure you tap into the right one :).
Obviously, since you likely won't be increasing the size of the hose, you will not want to run both the heater(s) and the engine at the same time (or they will be fighting over the fuel, and one will probably lose). Some kind of interlock would be usefull (i.e. when the key is in "run", the heater should be locked-out).
Thus, I would recomend putting in another supply/return line to the tank...
-Tim
Put in a seperate tank for off road fuel and they will take the tax off at most truck stops.
Drill and tap 2 extra holes over next to the fuel gauge plate. One line should end just inside the tank (return line) The other line should extend down to about 8 inches off the bottom of the tank. ( Short ) This will keep your heaters from sucking the tank down so far that you can't move the bus.
Please don't TAP into the engine lines, You will be very sorry when you drain the tank by accident. The engine lines should never be tapped into because any air or leaks between the tank and engine fuel pump or return line will be a pain to deal with.
The auxillary tank is fine if you have the room to spare and can go through the hassle of filling with red-diesel. Many places now require a permit in hand to buy red-dyed diesel or you can be charged extra taxes.
Oh.. The 100 gallon Tractor Supply (truck tank) will fit all the way across under the tunnel in an MC9 and the only mod is to remove the two small welded lift rings.
Takes up 1/2 bay and not quite full width. Just FYI....
Have Fun....
Hey Grant what I did for my webasto hook up is took a Old Volkswagon Bug gas tank that was in a Bug that had a Gas heater. ( All Manitoba VW's had gas heaters ) so it shouldn't be hard to find at wrecker.
The two hose factory made pick up tube works great. Also it is short enough to not suck the last bit of fuel out of your tank. The nicest thing is it unbolts from the VW tank and needs only a 1 " drilled hole in your bus tank. Then bolt it in your tank with a new rubber gasket.
You might want to do a visual on the top of your fuel tank. I had two round 5 hole plates on the top of my tank. One I used for the fuel gauge sending unit, and the other I made a pickup and return for the generator-didn't have to cut anything. If not-make a new pickup, do NOT tap into your big engine lines. Good Luck, TomC
I am useing portable fuel tanks for my heaters so that when I am cammped somewhere I can just take the tanks for fuel and not have to fire up the bus. Jerry
Quote from: TomC on March 10, 2009, 08:32:04 AM
You might want to do a visual on the top of your fuel tank. I had two round 5 hole plates on the top of my tank. One I used for the fuel gauge sending unit, and the other I made a pickup and return for the generator-didn't have to cut anything. If not-make a new pickup, do NOT tap into your big engine lines. Good Luck, TomC
..and while your looking check for spare fittings. My tank has two pipe fittings not in use.
Once again , all really good advice. Not sure which way I'll go but I do know I won't be tapping into any exsisting fuel lines , ha ha. Might just end up putting a seperate tank in. I'm a little worried about getting shavings in the fuel tank from drilling but I will check for the extra hardware on top of the tank.
Thanks
Proheat makes a fuel pickup to replace a standard five hole plate. They cost around $40 to $50, but far less expensive than potentially contaminating your fuel. This has no return so I guess it only works with a Proheat as they have no return.
Someone probably makes similiar for Webasto and other heaters with a return.