Most of us install a propane system to fuel stove, water heater, etc.
I met with another guy last weekend, who proudly showed me his setup. I'm planning to steal ideas from him.
First, he uses standard trailer tanks instead of a frame-mounted tank. This means that he can get more propane by tossing the empty tank in the toad instead of having to take the whole coach. It also means that he periodically gives the tanks an inspection, just in the process of getting them in and out. He also can pull out a tank to run a BBQ or to loan fuel if need be.
Second, he puts them in the bay where the aircon condenser used to sit. This is well-vented already, and he added several 2" holes in the floor (propane goes DOWN when it leaks). He has an automatic valve to switch between tanks, which then goes through a ball valve to get to the regulator. Across the bay he has mounted a SCUBA tank which is filled with fire retardant and CO2 and fitted with a ball valve and a nozzle which directs the spray across the tanks. The valve is operated by a hold-open spring, and is held closed by a plastic Cotter pin. A similar arrangement on the propane cut-off is rigged to close that valve. There is a wire connected to the Cotter pins, which runs into the coach and all the way to the bedroom in the back (like a stop request rope). If there is a fire in the bay, a yank on the wire will cut off the propane at the regulator and release the retardant, blowing any flames OUT THE VENT SCREEN, giving people inside the coach a chance to get out.
Third, he mounted heavy-duty sliders to the wall of the aircon bay, and mounted a couple of sections of channel, padded and bent into an L shape, to mount the tanks (the Ls go through the carry handles), which are held to the brackets with straps.
Fourth, he uses plastic gas pipe to feed the appliances. This runs along the street-side edge of the cargo bays, along the bottom just clear of the doors, inside a length of electrical conduit. The conduit is open at the tank and water-heater ends and sealed at the T that goes up through the floor to feed the kitchen, while the plastic pipe can flex with the coach.
All in all, a really nice setup, worth an extra couple of hours of work.
I only have my stove and furnace propane powered. I have a 20 gal chassis mount suspended from the floor of the transit bus, with nothing below-so natural ventilation to the ground. I only want the propane on when needed, so I have an electric solenoid valve just after the manual turn off valve on the tank to a switch inside in the kitchen with pilot light to warn it is activated, and a fuel tank gauge that also activates when the switch is on. I like the chassis mount since it is equal to 4 BBQ type tanks and it out of the way. Good Luck, TomC
I also have my 4 ft tank hanging under the bus on a shelf that is clear to the ground for any venting.
I was thinking of adding an electric solenoid and gauge as Tom is using.
I finally emptied all the propane out of the tank so I can install my remote fill, took two years powering the furnace to empty the tank. Of coarse only using the heat when needed while working.
Now the tank is emptied I can remove the fittings and install the hoses to the remote.
One thing I simply don't understand is the use of a propane detection *only* system by OEMs and most conversion folks.
CCI makes a propane detector ****AND**** shut down system. It is very cost effective and easy to install. I use this as a part of my fire suppression system.
For more information, take a look at: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/lp-gas/cci-control-pre-tell.htm
As a side note, I tried to go to the CCI website and it is down and looks like it is not a technical issue. I sure hope they are not another one of the causalities.
Jim
Quote from: rv_safetyman on February 17, 2009, 08:07:54 AM
One thing I simply don't understand is the use of a propane detection *only* system by OEMs and most conversion folks.
CCI makes a propane detector ****AND**** shut down system. It is very cost effective and easy to install. I use this as a part of my fire suppression system.
For more information, take a look at: http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/lp-gas/cci-control-pre-tell.htm
As a side note, I tried to go to the CCI website and it is down and looks like it is not a technical issue. I sure hope they are not another one of the causalities.
Jim
Controller and cutoff valve are about $125. Looks like cheap insurance to me.