Any limitiations I need to know about in changing original steel wheels out for aluminum on an Eagle (stud length?) My front wheels are actually the Freightliner aluminum wheels, my rears are Eagle steels that have been chrome. I was going to go to my local truck salvage yard and look at the price for some used truck wheels to match. A local guy has a full set of Alocas that he would sell me, but I thought I'd price match etc. It seems like everything I always see is Nashville anyway is Alcoas. For an 82 Eagle Model 10 I do need stub piloted wheels, correct? Thanks for any input.
It's easy to tell-if when looking at the studs on the drivers, if you see the six sided nut with a 4 sided stud inside, you have stud, or Budd type wheels. If on the other hand all you see is a six sided nut with a flange or washer built into it, then you have hub piloted wheels (which I doubt). Most Eagles used 11R-24.5's-which I have and what you should keep since the 11R-24.5's are the tallest (translated fastest) tires you can have-as long as they are rated at 75mph. Good Luck, TomC
Because of the additional thickness of aluminum wheels, you will probably need longer studs. You should have at least a couple exposed threads on the outside of the nut. Jack
No need to change the studs on the drive axle a longer inside nut can be purchased at a truck supply for that ( around $8.00 each).
David
David, you are correct about the dual wheel axle *IF* you use steel inner wheels (most do). If not, you need to change those studs as well
Having studs pressed out and new ones installed can be at least a couple of "C" notes if you have a three axle coach and do the four hubs. That cost is for the labor and studs, but not the labor to remove and install the hubs. While you are at it, you should take a close look at the bearings and think about replacing them.
Jim
LE82 ,Have you checked out the Eagle forum also,I know this was disscussed before there too ;)
http://www.eaglesinternational.net/forum/index.php
I had my Eagle 10 done and it was about $75 per wheel for labor to replace the studs. Each stud was about $12 each, so about $195 each. It got expensive real fast. They hammered mine in from the head while impacting the nut against washers and spacers on the front, NOT the best way to do that, by any means. They should have been pressed in. I did this 8 years and 50k miles ago and all is still well, but I recommend you have them pressed in.
David