Sojourner
Thanks for post in the other thread.
I thought that I would post a few more as that thread was was non bus related and others may not have seen those pictures. I re-framed from the belt line up and added the cross bracing below the belt line to help make up for removing the inside panels. I did not do any structural calculations as I am not a engineer. But thought that some extra metal wouldn't hurt. I have to admit it looked like a prison BUS before siding. I feel that by adding the cross bracing is just a good precaution. The bus will never haul 50 people and luggage again as long as I own it. The first picture was taken 12/16/07.
John
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More pictures second is of generator vent.
More
Sorry for three posts I have limited knowledge on how to do it different.
jriddle,
i was told the inside panels were not structural, though i have heard both sides, and i guess in theory it couldnt hurt. how certain are you that the inside panels are structural?
i will be getting mine spray foamed next week, so any structural modifications i should probably take care of! haha
I took off the inside panels, had the good closed foam sprayed in, drove around for 500 miles and then put the inside panels back on and every single rivet hole lined up perfect. (if I remember right there are over 700 rivets in those panels) I'm talking the rivet was snug in both holes as you pushed it in.
Had the slightest sag or shift occured, these holes would have been mis-aligned.
John riddle...thank you for sharing your project's photos.
Looking good...it wall truss is of lean construction base on using thin OEM horizontal frame top (below window) and below diagonals tubing. I believe it will be fine for being motorhome. In other words, motorhome requirement in regard to structural strength is about 2/3 of the passenger coaches.
Keep up the good work.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
Iminaccess
I am not an expert on what is structural and what isn't. With that said my personal belief is all panels including the window frames are part of the structure. I think each has to decide how the bus is going to be used and how much loading you plan for that structure. I believe that the origanal design had a service factor a lot greater than the reported gross weight. I for one have trouble believing that we will exceed that design factor. Do I think the cross bracing is totally necessary? My only answer is that I added it to make myself feel better about taking those panels out and not replacing them. Others may post and give their opinion. I have seen this argument several times here and each has their own view. I know this may not seem like an answer but I really do not know what effect not bracing will have. I live in Nevada and LOVE to gamble but not too much.
Good luck
John
John, thanks for posting some pics. I see it looks like a seam front to back on the new siding is it two pieces? What did you use for insulation?
Lloyd
Lloyd
The siding is from R&M two piece. I tried a lighter material that I got a good deal on. I have to say the cheap siding didn't cost me much, but between the cost of rivits and my time (3 weeks) messing with it. I couldn't get the stuff on with out it looking like a crunched BEER can. I didn't make the right decision. My siding isn't perfect but looks good to me. My insulation I did myself. I used Tiger foam. I live in an area that is somewhat remote and I was not sure if I wanted the insulation all done at once. I have not done this before and didn't know if I wanted to cover everthing up till I was sure. I still need to finish the roof. On the walls I have also added 1/2" of pink board. I wanted to fir out the walls with 1/2" strips to keep condensation out and used this space to add more insulation. On the floor I added 1.5" insulation. In the back I used foil backed felt, in the front I used foam board. I had pictures of the foam board in the front, but have lost them somehow.
I was told that one piece siding might not be a good idea as it may crack? This is not my idea but it made sense to me. R&M will not sell on piece.
John
Lloyd Here are the rest
About inter aluminum panel....they are NOT structural. If they were...all non-structural pop rivet would be loosen and sheared. The outer skin is solid riveted to the frame to serve as the "truss" framing to control the vertical movement as well side flexing via frame thickness. Their purpose is to hold insulation to the skin and help to keep it dry from human breathing.
There are all type of rivet for each purpose. In this case, the OEM inter panel are installed using wrong rivet for structural purpose.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
Jriddle,
You have a very nice 9
John
thanks for the pictures! Looks very well done!
Keep up the good work!
Grant
John,
Great pics, keep up the good work...and stay warm ;D ;D ;D.
God bless,
John
Quote from: Sojourner on January 08, 2009, 09:40:55 PM
About inter aluminum panel....they are NOT structural. If they were...all non-structural pop rivet would be loosen and sheared. The outer skin is solid riveted to the frame to serve as the "truss" framing to control the vertical movement as well side flexing via frame thickness. Their purpose is to hold insulation to the skin and help to keep it dry from human breathing.
There are all type of rivet for each purpose. In this case, the OEM inter panel are installed using wrong rivet for structural purpose.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
Hi Jerry,
I was told by an MCI tech. that the inner "lower" panels on MCI's are there to keep a barrier between the insulation and the
air conditioning system. If were not there, the conditioned air would cause condinsation within the insulated area and result in rust.
No Structural support at all...
Good Luck
Nick-
John
Lookin good it feels very good when you start to put things back together, after months or even years of destruction it shore pays off when you start to see things take shape. Keep up the good work, I remember when I was at that point it seemed that you wasn't getting any where. PS thanks for the wiring pics for the tach It will help alot. Jason
Jason
I was wondering if you got them thanks for letting me know. I am just learning myself. There is no reason to reinvent the wheel if we are willing to share.
John
I payed the Pros to skin the windows on my Model 20 Eagle. The existing frame is strong enough, thats not the problem. They told me rough roads would make the bus rattle and they had fixed the problem over the years with a horizontal bar welded through the center of each skinned window.
It didn't take alot of time or material and I have no "rattles".
John
Not to change the subject but do you have a pic or diagram of where the tach wire hooked on the alt, I don't know if mine has a place already to hook to or if I have to put something on the alt. Thanks again Jason
I am not sure.
The drawing I sent shows the generator (ALT) but not which terminal. I just took a chance and hooked the signal wire to the C terminal in the front junction box and it worked.
You might try this.
Thanks John, But I checked my back junction box and terminal C only had the wire from the front on it so I asume mine Isn't hooked up to the alt. Thanks Jason
You might try a new post and I could chime in and see if we can stir up someone that knows.
John