I'm trying to replace leaking axle seals. I have the wheels off and have removed the philips head screws holding the brake hub to the inner hub disk. My Flyer manual just says now remove the drum but mine won't budge. Is there some kind of puller or do I get under the bus with a large sledge hammer and beat on the back side of the hub? I've not done any bus or truck work before so I don't know how to do what must be obvious to those mechanics. Any help? Thanks, Jim
Jim, make sure the other wheels are chocked real good so coach won't roll.
Release parking brake, remove brake adjustment to wheel you want to remove.
I hit drum with large sledgehammer(15lbs) just above the hub, rotating the hub too.
Wear eye protection 'cause dirt and rust will fly around when sledge strikes drum.
Works for me. Good luck.
Yup, make sure that you have the brakes off. Then just use a little elbow grease, and a sledge hammer. It can be tough but it will come...eventually.
God bless,
John
BTW, Don't hesitate to ask any "dumb" questions. The only "dumb" question is the one not asked.
I have not had the pleasure of working on a flyer, but its old enough to have inboard brakes. You are going to change the seals anyway so knock the axel out after you back the brakes off and slide the hub off with the drum, if its inboard.
Thanks for the replies. I'll try the hammer approach tomorrow. That's a good idea about taking the axle hub off with the brake drum attached, I hadn't thought of that. The thing that might be a problem is how much that assy weighs. I'm already worried about how I'm going to handle the brake drum weight. I may build up a platform under the assy so it won't have far to fall when it comes off. Thanks to all, Jim
Jim,
I'll give you the same advice that I was given and it worked extremely well on my Prevost. Keep the hub and drum together, after safely blocking the bus, put a jack under the axle on the side your working and slip a greasy piece of metal under the tire. If you have the jack just barely supporting the axle, you'll be able to slide the wheel/hub assembly out without lifting or dropping it. Do a search here and you'll find some pretty explicit instructions from some of the greatest bus mechanix in the world-hands down! I can't thank them enough for all the headaches and back aches they saved me.
Good luck, Will
PP,
Not bad advice. I just dead lift it...only a little more than a hundred lbs. I like your idea ;D.
God bless,
John
About removing drum from hub...is only for replacing with new drum. If you R&R the same drum after many miles of weathering and heating...you adding more chance of wobbling and dragging because of mating surface condition of rust and etc.
All major heavy truck repair shop leave the dual with hub/drum on.
About R&R (remove & replace) axle seal or brake shoes & turn drum on truck with dual wheel with air brake, I was trained to do this and been doing it while working at 2 trucking firm for a few years in the late 60's. You will save time by doing the following.
1) Chock the other dual and one front wheel.
2) Jack -up enough just so it about ¾ inch off concrete surface.
3) Put a safety stand or wide wood block such as 4x6 and a few shim of 2x4 or plywood near jack point.
4) Release the park brake and you be able to rotate and cam adjusting lever is loosen. If it dragging, remove the piston clevis pin from the cam adjuster lever to gain the full retracted clearance. It could be excessive dried grease build up on the inside edge of brake drum to call for full retracted clearance.
5) Remove drive axle via remove nuts & lock washer and sledge hammer on center of axle to loosen the split key rings.
6) Pull out the axle with a small pan or rag under it to catch some oil dripping.
7) Remove the large nut as per shop manual.
8 ) Now slide a 10" x 4ft greased thin metal plate under dual tire. Lower the "jack" until the axle's spindle is loose in hub.
9) Pull the dual assembly with hub along on the greased plate until it cleared spindle to roll it out enough to service the seal and inspect the bearing.
10) Clean the drum inter surface with part cleaner solvent and dry with rag.
11) Clean the grease off of lining with same solvent.
12) Finish cleaning the inter drum surface with denature alcohol to remove the "dried" oil film to avoid squealing drum braking.
13) Finish cleaning the lining surface with denatures alcohol.
14) Clean and inspect the seal's runner surface for groove or nick. However, replace old style seal with any good brand that similar to the SKF's Scotseal PlusXL (http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty/WheelEnd/Scotseals.aspx) design that can be hand installed without tools.
15) Follow the shop manual about lubing the bearing and installing the new seal.
16) Add more grease to sliding plate
17) Roll the dual to align with the axle spindle
18) Push the dual sideway in until it all the way in.
19) Follow the shop manual to install the 2 or 3 piece nut & retainer and torque.
20) Slide the drive axle in with cleaned gasket surface for the new thin paper gasket.
21) Follow the shop manual on the torque the nuts over split ring & washer.
22) Reinstall piston clevis pin to the cam adjuster lever.
23) After remove the jack, check rear end oil level.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
Thanks PP and Sojourner. That's the way I'll do it. Right now I'm searching for a socket to take the big nut off the bearing holder. Jim
The method that Sojourner has given you is the fast way that a shop would do it. Personally, I always like to take all 10 wheel bolts (inner and outer if you have nut locating tapered wheels) to inspect each nut and wheel stud. Then you can take the brake drum off your self (although heavy-especially like mine that are 14.5" x 10"). Once the wheels and drum is off, it is relatively easy to remove the axle hub and replace the wheel seals and inspect closely the bearings-looking for any pitting or tracking marks. If you see either, replace the bearings and bearing races-not very expensive. Then just put everything back together. Good Luck, TomC
My farmer friend had the socket I needed. I followed the above instructions and it came off easily. Thanks again for the help. Now I just wait for Monday to get my seals and shoes. Jim
Jim, make sure you understand how the lock system works and get it back togather right. Sometimes a jam nut with bent tabs and sometimes a little more complicated. With new shoes you will need several slack adjustments to reseat the new shoes to the drum, so if its not stopping real well, get out the adj wrench and tighten them up.
Jim, I always put silicone grease or never sieze on my drums were they fit to the hub/axle. I had to beat mine off of my bus, and I do with with all my drum brake autos. Tom Y
so if you can't fix it with a hammer "it's an electrical problem"?? ??? :o ;D :D ;) 8)