Hey everyone I have a 6v92 ta and it will turn over but won't crank is the first time its done this so I don't know what to do, someone suggested that it lost prime but would I not see or smell fuel?
Is it making white smoke when turning over?
John
If you can, remove the fuel filter and see if there is fuel in it. If not then you must re prime the system. There are instructions on how to do so in the archives or past threads pertaining to this procedure.
What type bus do you have and when you try to start it, do you notice smoke? If so, what color is the smoke? All important questions to answer your request more thorough!!
Ace
1986 GMC RTS 40' 6V92TA T806
Yes it is white smoke when turning over
C Boy is the engine mechanical or DDEC have a great evening
How cold is it out? You are getting fuel with white smoke.
John
don't know about fuel will check this weekend and it is mui
todd its about 50 degrees out
Sounds like your getting fuel with white smoke so I would leave the filters alone!
I would check for a stuck E shut down if it has one but like you were asked, is it a DDEC or not?
Ace
Quote from: Blacksheep on December 11, 2008, 08:49:13 PM
Sounds like your getting fuel with white smoke so I would leave the filters alone!
I would check for a stuck E shut down if it has one but like you were asked, is it a DDEC or not?
Ace
Ace he already answered that MIU. MANUAL INJECTION UNIT! FWIW ;D BK ;D
Yea BK I missed that as they were being posted faster than I could type and think at this time of night! ::)
C Boy try to reprime the engine they will blow white smoke when air is in the system. have a great evening
I'm confused, how can they produce white smoke with air in system? If I was blowing smoke, fuel would be the last place I would look.
Jim
Jim, I don't know about all Detroit's but my 8v92 will pump out white smoke and will not start with air in the system and so will Van's( bike whisperer) 6v92 I think it is because it is getting some fuel but not enough fuel for atomization. good luck
I can make white smoke anytime! Just keep trying to start with no or little air and you can turn your DD into a white smoke machine. I have a shim that I put in between the throttle stop to open the air to start the engine. Works just great. This keeps idle up to prevent low oil pressure on warm up and I have this shim tied to a nylon line. As soon as air pressure builds and I am ready to go, I punch the throttle a little and the shim drops out.
My 8V71 TA starts instantly with the shim in place. My shim is ~1/4". I don't have this problem with the 671, but it is standard transmission and is set for higher idle = more air on start. But my 871 has as an Allison. No way am I going to go with high idle on that unit! I don't want her clunking in and out of gear!
The shim completely solves my no start or smoke problem. If I forget the shim, then I bet I can outsmoke you! Simple solution to an annoying problem. And I am not surprised that it has not been mentioned here. Took me a lot of quizzing around before I solved that one. Of course, you could do a sophisitcated electric fast idle modification. Air is useless as there is no pressure on a cold start!
Someone here may have a better mousetrap for this and a lot of us are participating here to get educated one way or the other. I don't know much, but this smoke thing had to go if you know what I mean.
Bill T.
Just a thought, are you sure the engine is spinning fast enough? It doesn't take much of a drop in spinning RPM in cold weather to create a no start situation. Cold engine, maybe batteries not quite up to par?, it doesn't take much. Jack
Try cranking for 10 seconds, then waiting for a minute, and repeat, a couple of times, if necessary.
Sometimes all it takes is building enough heat w/in the block to fire off the mixture.
Cranking for 10 seconds builds heat, letting it sit for a minute allows the heat to soak into the block, so the next cranking adds more heat, etc.
Since you've got a TA motor, you don't have an emergency shut-down flapper in the air intake, so getting enough air isn't an issue.
Jack's comment is right on, too. If your battery voltage is low, the starter may not be spinning the engine fast enough to get it to build enough heat to fire.
And, as has already been mentioned, check the fuel filters to see if they're full of fuel, you may have lost prime. Might have the fuel system's check valve looked at, if that's the case.
Hard starting may also be indicative of a tired engine. . .
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
I really don't know if its turning over fast enough it has always fired so quickly, when I charge the batts do I need to unhook the cables or is it okay to just start at the first battery???
About won't starts while cranking and produce white smoke. You said it was OK before but now it not.
What was the ambient temperature the last time you had it started and running? It can make the difference if it warmer than now.
White smoke does mean you have at least some fuel or otherwise black smoke if too much fuel or not enough air through air cleaner. No smoke...no fuel is injecting into combustion chamber, period.
Usually this is indication of not enough combustion temperature (700°F) via compression to ignite fuel. Why....one of few things:
1) Cranking speed is too slow:
a) Batteries state of charge (SoC) is low...100% SoC is 12.65v at 80°F or 75% at 12.45v...recharge the batteries till it 100% SoC. Turn the headlights on high beam for five minutes, turn them off, and wait ten minutes and it should be 12.65v at 80°F electrolyte temp. If it won't get to 100% SoC, then you need new pair of 900+ CCA of group 31 batteries.
b) Batteries are very cold in temperature...No less than 12.4 at 50°F (75% Soc)
c) How long the batteries storage time period before starting. The internal discharge rate is between 8% and 40% per month
d) Wire cable & terminal ends resistant are too high...Total voltage drop between battery's + post to starter + terminal post should never be more than 1 volt/24v or .5 volts/12v system while cranking. Replace corroded terminal ends, wire brush the battery's post & the inside of tapered hole of the post's terminals.
e) Starter is dragging from its worn bearing...if it at or less then 18v/24v or 9.6v/12 system while cranking a 75°F or warmer engine.
f) Engine oil is too thick for the climate condition... if it at or less then 18v/24v or 9.6v/12 system while cranking a very cold engine.
2) Worn out engine's compression rings with OK or good starting system...Means it will produce white smoke until cranking speed is faster then normal to increase combustion to 700°F to ignition point or need ether to boast start.
3) Engine block heater...it simulate the increase climate temperature of about 40°F.
Keep us posted the results, if you will...thank you.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
BTW...like your "servant for Jesus Christ" Praise the Lord!
No one has mentioned the "E" word, would have it running in a heartbeat.>>>Dan
The "E" word will work and won't hurt anything if used in moderation. Been there done that just today.
John
Quote from: Jriddle
The "E" word will work and won't hurt anything if used in moderation. Been there done that just today.
John
That's right I used some today too! I was in the pit cleaning the underside of my bus and I run out of "parts" cleaner. So I grabbed the new case of starting fluid of the shelf and well now everything is nice and clean! And it didn't hurt a thing! I just hope dad doesn't go looking for any "either" between now and Monday when I can get a couple cases of parts cleaner and a new case of either delivered by NAPA! LOL! ooppps my bad! LOL! ;D BK ;D
Help me out here. I have heard that using Either can/will damage a diesel engine. Is this just a fairy tale? John said that it would work if it is used in moderation. Does that mean only using it on rare occasions, or using a very little, or what? Inquiring minds want to know. ;D
Thanks for bearing with me in my ignorance.
God bless,
John
John316; it is called starting fluid now it is about 50% either, back in the day either came in small capsules and had injection gadget to inject the either as you cranked on the engine you could also buy the cans of either at drug stores and that stuff would blow a engine up.If you your 60s has the cold weather package on it it will have a injector that holds a can of starting fluid for cold starts.I am sure some of the other guys remember pure either in the capsules and cans ( not a spray) have a great evening
When I use starting fluid I give a quick squirt in the air intake while cranking. If you keep spraying you could do damage. A quick spray should get engine cranking faster. If it won't start with the first squirt, do it again. Just do not use to much at once. I have had good luck with cranking for a few seconds and then waiting a while and cranking again. This does let heat build in the cylinders. If all else fails give it a quick shot of starting fluid. Starting fluid used in excess could blow a head gasket or wash down the cylinders. In small engines you could blow the head off. I have worked in farming and mining all my life in Montana and Nevada and have not seen anyone damage a large engine with starting fluid. I have seen a bobcat with a three cylinder engine get damage with to much starting fluid. Keep in mind that starting fluid has no lubrication value at all it works well at cleaning oil and grease up. With that in mind when you use to much you are cleaning all the oil off cylinders.
John
It's not a pretty sight when starting fluid is used on a engine with glow plugs like a BOB CAT. I have saw the M6v53 2 strokes in baskets that GI's used starting fluid and then turn the glow plugs on have a great evening
Makemine,
Can you elaborate?
Also, I have heard that using WD40 or a similar product instead of staring fluid will help with starting, and is less prone to wash down the cyl. walls since it has some lubricating qualities. Has anyone had any experience with that? Also, I have heard of turning on your headlight for a minute or so in subfreezing temps in order to draw current from the cranking battery, thus warming it and improving cranking. Wadauthink?
Dennis
I have heard of using WD40. Some of the guys at work have used this when they could not find any starting fluid ( because I had it locked up). Seemed to work for them. I haven't ever herd about headlight thing. I usually turn them off. Hope to learn something new here.
John
Whoops, I should have added, turn off the lights before cranking, so all the power is available then for the starter.
Dennis
My 671 has a little cup originally made for a small ether capsule. I use it all the time in cool weather and it works great. It doesn't take much. If it doesn't start right away the first time don't keep cranking. Try it again and use a little more. The least amount necessary to start is better in this case!!
The 4104 Driver Inst Book says to puncture the capsule and then walk up to the front of the bus and hit the starter. I start it from the back but wait a while before hitting the starter. I think the idea is to let the ether evaporate into the blower which makes sense.
No capsules made now so I just use a squirt can of starting fluid from WalMart, works every time.
If you have an engine with one of those little cups I recommend using it, it seems to me to be much safer than squirting ether into the intake.
WD-40 works fine for gas engines but it never worked for me on the 671. Carb cleaner works even better for gas engines than WD-40. Carb cleaner didn't work on the 671 either??
I don't think ether will ever wash cyl walls, it evaporates too fast to ever arrive into the cyl in liquid form.
Thanks for all the help I will try charging the batts first then go to the other thanks again for all the help.
Dennis
I hope you didn't take my last comments wrong! I was hoping to learn from other about the battery draw before starting. I am not that old and have found If you pay attention you will learn something new everyday. I read my last post this morning and hope I didn't leave you with the wrong impression. I was drinking box wine last night and may have not been clear on my intention.
John
Back in the late 90's or early 00's WD-40 made a change in the make up to make it "less flamable" and since then I haven't seen it work worth a darn for anyone I personally know of. But prior to that I used to use it quite regularly on my stubborn refer units! (But as Cole said ya gotta disconnect those glow plugs first!) FWIW ;D BK ;D
Someone can jump in here and give the right info. I had the shut down valve stick on my 6V92 and I had to manually take a boxed end wrench and pull the cylinder back. There are two of these air operated cylinders on top of the engine one is the shut down. You can turn the ignition switch on at the front of coach and then go the engine compartment and turn the main electrical switch on and off and you can hear the air operated switch work. I can not remember the name of the air operated switch.
Skinner valve
Thanks BK. Us Kentuckians has to help each other out sometimes.
Merry Christmas to all.
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all and a happy and safe newyear
Well I see that all here paid no attention to the idle shim. My coach will smoke white smoke period, unless I crack the throttle with a shim. No ifs ands or buts! Repeatable every time without fail. Others here may be telling you to check to see if you have any fuel pressure and check fuel this and that. If you are seeing white smoke, you are in luck and not lacking fuel. So either you lack air or rpm. And of course this problem will be worse if the ambient temperature is down. My engine is not in need of any rings and does not smoke after starting. Even when the throttle is pushed. But it will smoke white smoke and actually some smoke rings if I fail to use the shim.
Maybe it is just as well to not start your unit until diesel comes down in price. By the time we get a little further into this recession going on to depression, environmentalists could be forced to back down and stop the nonsense on diesel restrictions. Paying $1 more per gallon for diesel is preposterous! This is the best evidence that this screwed up economy is no where near being back down to a reasonable level of recovery! There is no sane reason why diesel should be higher than gasoline other than government monkey shines! Bill T.
thanks for the note on the shim I will try charging first to see if that is all it is it has cranked fine until now
John,
No offense taken; maybe that's because I had a glass of vino sitting next to me when I read it. :) The only white smoke I've seen lately is coming from my ears when I fill this thing up at the diesel pump!
Dennis
GMO406
Blocking the linkage with a shim does nothing related to the amount of air the engine is getting. Our DDs run with wide open air intake all the time. Throttle adjusts how much diesel is injected to control speed/power output. You might need to have the idle speed and governor set.
I know I am looking forward to having the DD tuned up by someone who really knows them if I ever get the new bus on the road. :) My other requirement is someone that will let a busnut fool look over his shoulder. I know, good luck. :(
Don 4107
Leaky Injector or the rack is out of adjustment. explains the white smoke.
maybe a couple are sticking slightly.
If shimming the throttle does not introduce more air, then by whatever action is happening, my 871 TA will start with the shim and absolutely will not start without it unless it is 70 degrees or warmer outside. If it is adjusted so that it starts, then the idle is too high to prevent clunking in and out of gear with the V-730. Others here may be more up on what is actually going on when the throttle is shimmed, but I can do white smoke quite well if I do not use the shim. She starts so fast with the shim, it is like she explodes on the first move of the crank! The shim also gives a nice high idle for warm up keeping oil pressure up. Bill T.
Quote from: GM0406 on December 16, 2008, 08:04:11 AM
If shimming the throttle does not introduce more air, then by whatever action is happening, my 871 TA will start with the shim and absolutely will not start without it unless it is 70 degrees or warmer outside. If it is adjusted so that it starts, then the idle is too high to prevent clunking in and out of gear with the V-730. Others here may be more up on what is actually going on when the throttle is shimmed, but I can do white smoke quite well if I do not use the shim. She starts so fast with the shim, it is like she explodes on the first move of the crank! The shim also gives a nice high idle for warm up keeping oil pressure up. Bill T.
Bill,
I think the governor is not adjusted properly and/or the rack needs adjusting. While your trick with the shim works for you, it is not the normal condition.
My (limited) experience with Detroits is that if it doesn't start on the second turn, something is wrong.
BIll T: you are in great need of a tune up rack, injector timing and governor adjustments the shim has nothing to do with air only fuel. the shim is opening all the injectors instead of a couple definitely a problem somewhere. If you believe it runs good now wait till after a tune up.
have a great day
Ok, Perhaps the rack needs to be run. However, I think at some point we purposefully reduced idle speed to avoid rough shifts. Since this essentially closes the rack, are we suggesting here that the white smoke is due to not all injectors cutting back equally? Which would mean that when I am trying to start in this low rack position that one or more injectors are injecting while the majority are not, thus preventing full start and just putting out white smoke? The reasoning here would be that there should be no white smoke if all injectors are closing with a closed rack. A correct rack adjustment would then include making sure all injectors shut at the same time, open at the same time and move equally throughout the throttle stroke. I wonder if there are compromises on these rack adjustments where you adjust for the best even performance above shut-off, even if it means slight injection of a couple of them below a few hundred rpm?
FWIW I have no problem at all with this engine as long as the shim is used. It runs smoothly, has adequate power and does not smoke. If I use the shim on a cold start, I have almost no smoke at all.
Now my 671 will give me some smoke on a cold start and she will put out blue smoke when you pull out and run up rpm in first gear. After that she settles down and there is no visible smoke.
Thanks for the good advise and clarification here. You guys are great!
Bill T.
So if Bill T. has a couple injectors opening before the rest I am guessing they are open more all the way from idle to wide open. If so, does that unbalance the engine enough to do damage by working one or more cylinders harder? Inquiring minds and all that.
Don 4107
Don -
Short answer: It depends. . . :D
Longer answer: Probably not enough to make a real difference, other than affect fuel economy and engine smoothness.
Bill -
IIRC, low idle on the 8V71 should be 500 - 550 rpm, and fast idle 950 - 1000. Fast idle circuit should be wired such that it only works in neutral with handbrake or parking brake "on". Releasing the brake or shifting out of neutral should immediately kill the fast idle. Also, it's a good habit to wait for a couple of seconds after killing the fast idle to shift into gear with the automatic, allowing the engine to settle down to low idle to reduce abrupt initial engagement.
Rough shifts while rolling are not related at all to engine idle settings. That's something entirely different.
You are correct when you say that all the injectors should be synchronized equally, from idle through governed top speed. Conceptually similar to synchronizing multiple carburetors on a gas engine. I, too, am guessing that running the rack will eliminate your need for the little shim you've been using, and in addition, I think you'll find that the engine runs a lot better.
Gotta get up to SJ and come by for a visit - haven't had a chance to see your '04 yet!
FWIW & HTH. . .
:)
This tread has me confused. When i am cranking my coach i look for white smoke to tell me i have fuel. no white smoke no fuel. cold crank for 5 seconds,look for white smoke crank for 5 more seconds to build heat then it usually starts.
If no white smoke time to look and see if fuel in filters and prime the beast if it won't start.
if the filters have fuel check and make sure the stop engine "rack shut off" is not stuck.
uncle ned
Hope you guys don't mind my on again off agian here! Lots of stuff to do. I just replaced the off on switch on my Allen ADC-5000 organ and went to radio shack to find a switch. I found exactly one switch that was good for 16 amps. at 125 VAC. But it had two LEDs in it. One red and one green. There were 3 male spades on the back and I could not understand the diagram!! My neighbor who is a guru on anything electrical coached me and made me a diagram I could understand. The only cheating I did was to run the neutral on the switch to ground as I was not about to try and fish a neutral all the way up from the bottom where everything is in boxes with plugs anyway. It seemed to work fine with that tiny load to ground.
Sorry for the distraction. Now back to the '06 and that 871. If there is such a thing as an electric fast idle solenoid, I don't have it. And that would solve my problem to be able to have cold fast idle and cut back for shifting. I would be very interested if anyone has the details of this idle device.
Meantime I bought a Lawn-Boy mower and have been educating myself on them. Anyone dealt with these two cycle units? They are great for lawns with far more power and suction than the four cycle ones. I see where some are running 50-1 synthetic oil in them. I know you can't buy them new any more. I will experiment with this one and see how clean I can get it to run.
If it ticks or runs, I am ready to deal with it. Especially if it doesn't work. That I can't stand.
It's going to be Christmas here before we know it. I have to go and shop. Merry Christmas to all here. Bill t.
Quote from: GM0406 on December 18, 2008, 03:25:41 PM
Meantime I bought a Lawn-Boy mower and have been educating myself on them. Anyone dealt with these two cycle units? They are great for lawns with far more power and suction than the four cycle ones. I see where some are running 50-1 synthetic oil in them. I know you can't buy them new any more. I will experiment with this one and see how clean I can get it to run.
Bill,
If it runs but does not have much power, remove the exhaust balle and clean the 3 exhaust ports in the cylinder wall. We had a lot of trouble with carboon build up in the 3 ports restricting the exhaust flow and greatly reducing power. I think it was because my grandfather always added a "little" more oil than specd' to make sure I did not hurt it. Jack
Ok the mini 2 stroke motors I am very familiar with as we used them exclusivly in our RC cars. I can tell you that carbon build up is the most HP robber there is and a good oil will deter that. I recommend a couple oils that are the very best. One is VP racing oil made by VP race gas and another is Sylkelene which is very hard to find but can be found via internet and bought direct from them. I can race one of our motors for a whole year which averages 1-2 month and end of year tear down would look like it was just built! No carbon in the exhaust port and very little if any on top of the piston! Of the 2 mentioned, I would go out of my way for the sylkelene!
Ace
I forgot to mention, I mixed the oil at 2.5 ozs to .9 per gallon of race gas. If you prefer you can use pump gas but don't use cheap regular. Go for the good stuff!
Ace
Ace
i have ran silkeleyne four strode oil in my husaberg since new. ran many crosscountry and enduros. still runs like new and it is a 97. 11 years old
tough european bikes.
uncle ned
Quote from: GM0406 on December 18, 2008, 03:25:41 PM
Sorry for the distraction. Now back to the '06 and that 871. If there is such a thing as an electric fast idle solenoid, I don't have it. And that would solve my problem to be able to have cold fast idle and cut back for shifting. I would be very interested if anyone has the details of this idle device.
Bill -Does your '06 have a fast idle switch on the panel to the driver's left? On mine, it's located just about opposite my left elbow.
Also, back on the engine, where the throttle lever is on top of the governor housing - are there two of the plunger goodies, you know, like the one used to push against the throttle lever to shut the engine down?
If you've got the switch up front, and the double plungers on the governor housing in the back, you've got the basics for fast idle. If that's the case, then it's just a matter of troubleshooting to find out why it's not working.
Also, if you still have the "Johnson bar" handbrake, there's another switch on that mechanism that is part of the circuitry - it's purpose is to only allow engagement of the fast idle when the parking brake is "on". IIRC, the switch is on top of the mechanism inside the compartment under the driver.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
I have NOT read all the replys here sosss sorry if I repeat stuff. Let's keep this KISS. Did some MUI 6V92T Detroits come with the emergency shut down flapper thing? If memory serves (always suspect!) some did.
Does the mill sound different or "funny sounding" when cranking, blowing white smoke, but not starting? Maybe you have an older style emergency shut down flapper that has tripped shut.
Look on top of the blower. Pretty easy to eyeball. It will take two (2) people to reset it if you have the emergency trip manual choke type pull lever on the dash. One to push in the knob, the other to reset the trip.
You may not have any dash knob trip but still have the emergency trip on the mill. Older Bus Conversion. Or, it is possible you may have some sort of electric gismo on the trip mechanism. If it just tripped while idling, it did not hurt your mill. HB of CJ :) :) :)
(I will not tell you the true story about a fire engine Detroit Diesel that tripped its emergency shut off flapper thing resulting in a chain of infortunate events that resulted in three (3) nice homes losing their roofs. Opps!)
Ok, Got the message on the two cyles and I will get on the internet and see if I can find this great oil. I will get to the carbon. Right now I got surprised yesterday by that cable that goes down to the rear wheels. Evidently I had the rear set too low and it triggered that cable which preveneted that mower from starting! Seems like I am running into all kinds of problems starting these days! The Lawn-Boy lady at one repair shop told me that this cable is there to prevent you from pulling the starter if the rear wheel drive is engauged. I guess it is engauged if the rear is lowered past a certain level! Amazing!!
Now I will take some pics of the 871 in the throttle area so you all can see what is there and what is not there. I will also look tomorrow to see if I can find the switch up front and take pics of that too. This coach has an air throttle.
Bill T.
Hey everyone just to let you all know I got the 6v92 to start now bare with me I'm not a mechanic but at the engine there is a cylinder with a small rod that comes out of it and pushes on a curved lever that is spring loaded I pushed and pulled on it and the bus fired up is this a shutdown or something like that and will it work itself out when I start driving it more or should it be replaced??
MERRY CHRISTMAS
Quote from: CAROLINABOY on December 19, 2008, 07:38:29 PM
Hey everyone just to let you all know I got the 6v92 to start now bare with me I'm not a mechanic but at the engine there is a cylinder with a small rod that comes out of it and pushes on a curved lever that is spring loaded I pushed and pulled on it and the bus fired up is this a shutdown or something like that and will it work itself out when I start driving it more or should it be replaced??
MERRY CHRISTMAS
YUP! ;D BK ;D
Good that you got it started. Praise the Lord!
Yes...that is the shut down lever.
About the cylinder is binding or sticking...you may have moisture in it to become ice after cooled off or it worn out.
About the first post in regard to the white smoke. In this case no fuel due to shutdown mode and the white smoke is only moisture vapor from cold cranking. However, if it were getting fuel will produce heavy & diesel fuel smell white smoke until cranking is fast enough to ignite and darker smoke. So there 2 kind of white smoke while cranking and don't ignite to run. One is white thick smoke (fuel) and other is thin white moisture vapor on a cold moist day.
So I am sorry to suggest the cranking speed is too slow from your report of white smoke. Been that you are a amateur mechanic, you could mean vapor smoke. I am learning to ask more question before I answer.
Good now that it is running and you are learning at the same time.
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
QUOTE "Hey everyone just to let you all know I got the 6v92 to start now bare with me I'm not a mechanic but at the engine there is a cylinder with a small rod that comes out of it and pushes on a curved lever that is spring loaded I pushed and pulled on it and the bus fired up is this a shutdown or something like that and will it work itself out when I start driving it more or should it be replaced?"QUOTE
Carolinaboy that is the SKINNER valve that I was trying to describe and thanks to BK he knew what I was talking about. Spray it with PB Blaster and work it a few time and it should be OK. You can find them at a truck parts place for about $25.00.
Merry Christmas
pretty sure that "at the engine there is a cylinder with a small rod that comes out of it and pushes on a curved lever that is spring loaded" is the emergency shut down flap not the skinner. He doesn't say where at the engine and the air intake is kind of at the engine.
Zubzub
The DD6V92TA engine does not have an emergency shut down.
thought it was a mui and others stated it might have one. A picture would help carolina boy, it's too cold to work outside so I'm pretty much stuck armchair wrenching.
I alway though that the emerency shutdown flappers were on on NA (non turbo) engines. I have seen any 92 series engines without a turbo. Of course, I could be wrong. It wouldn't be the first time and I am sure it won't be the last. Jack
Guys emergency shut downs are on 92TA series also it depends on the application for engine if you read your 92 series manual it will tell how to rebuild one I have one on my 8v92 TA 475 HP and I use it when planing on being away from the bus for long periods of time good luck
hey guys it is a 6v92ta mui and it is located just to the right of the fuel filters and behind the I think valve cover and I believe there is a wire to a silenoid that goes to it I think.
Todd MERRY CHRISTMAS ;D ;D
Does a 4106 have a hand throttle?
I assumed they were set up the same as the 4104 but mine doesn't have that fast idle setup?
I always thought the 04 and 06 were just about the same except for the engine and trans.
Gus -
My 4106 doesn't have a hand throttle, but it does have a fast idle.
The fast idle became common after the '04, because there no longer was a pony engine to run the HVAC, and you needed the additional idle speed to keep the HVAC system functioning properly while the coach was parked in revenue service.
OTOH, the basic coach chassis structure is very, very similar between the '04 & '06. . .
Todd -
If you could post a photo of the governor housing on your engine, and the other things you have questions about, we could answer your question more intelligently. . .
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
RJ...thank you for asking a photo on the governor housing. Better still a photo of the top with levers & cylinders. To add to my file so next one having a problem with it...we can show with arrows/labels.
FWIW
Sojourn for Christ, Gerald
Quote from: RJ on December 21, 2008, 05:27:35 PM
Todd -
If you could post a photo of the governor housing on your engine, and the other things you have questions about, we could answer your question more intelligently. . .
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)