Instead of posting to deal with a problem, this is just a post to share some small joys. For one thing, I decided to attack the rear control box this week. After removing a large mud nest from it, fixing a broken wire, moving a misconnected wire and changing two of the push switches, it now works. The toggle switches of the rear, the starter button starts it, the shutdown switch cuts the fuel, and the emergency shut down switch pops the butterfly. That's good enough for me.
Further, I received my Chinese photo tachometer in the mail today. I had a mechanic set idle and no load a couple of months ago, but when I installed my tach, I had doubts that he set them as he claimed (600 for idle and 2100 for no load). This is really the only reason I bought the photo tach which, at about $20., was cheaper than getting another mechanic to check it out. Anyway, I was right. The idle is set at 500rpm and the no load is set at 2200 rpm. Both seem to work fine. He said he set the high idle at 1000rpm, but it sounded a lot slower to me. Turns out it is set at 800 rpm. I don't really use it, but it seems the 800 will be okay.
I also noticed that my holding tanks have electrodes pre-installed, so I bought a standard tank monitor system at the bay for about $40. delivered. I really feel that I am in the home stretch on this.
The electrode thing is wagging my brain. Electrolysis and other reactions are beyond my mental capability. I have an aluminum poopoo tank. Will it eat itself up without an electrode or other weird thing? Is there any such thing as a neutral poopoo tank? This is one place I DON"T want a leak. Thanks \
Don
is it aluminum or stainless
I find it hard to believe that someone would make an aluminum tank for black water
Melbo
The electrodes or sensors are not for electrolysis, they are to monitor fluid levels in tanks. I hate to rain on your parade but the sensors in a black water tank do not work worth a poop. As the tank is drained solids hang up on the sensors and they show the tank is constantly full. Unless you clean them after every emptying.
Of course there may be some new sensor tech out there that I do not know about. HTH Jim
Jim,
I know that those systems have there problems, but since the contacts are there and the cost is low enough, I figured I would hook it up. I think that if we stick to something like Scott single ply paper, which disintegrates easily, we can minimize the failures. There are probably some paper digestives that could be used periodically also.
How long will aluminum tanks last. I made mine out of aluminum about 6 years ago not knowing anything about the subject. Since then I have found all kind of experts that do not have a clue except to say that they are the one who knows it all. Some say they will last forever, some say only a flush or two. I guess I am a test pilot on the throne. They are fine so far, I will keep ya'll posted.
I have found that the condensation alone in the tank makes them un-useable. Mine always read "full".
Fill the fresh water tank and when it is empty it is time to dump and refill the fresh water! My fresh water tanks are inside and I can see their levels. I have 80 gallons under the bed and when that one runs dry I switch the valves and start on the 40 gallons under the couch.
Also, can pretty nearly tell when to dump using our normal useage of 5 gallons/day/person.
Huggy has two aluminuuuun tanks one for fresh and one for the other.
been in it for at least 12 years.
uncle ned
I know it ain't a bus, but my '86 Airstream has the tank level sensors for each 1/4 tank in the fresh, grey, & black. All work fine.
Alum for tanks can last a long time . . .
Alum can also corrode, just like carbon steel.
Stainless tanks are prone to cracking from 'stress corrosion'
Plastic tanks need support.
They all have 'issues', your needs must be considered to determine which is best for you.