Ahoy, BusFolk,
My AGM batteries are rated 4ea @ 205 ah, but I don't believe that they were ever even close to that.
Now, my AGM batteries won't even make toast, so they are toast!!!
Any comment, either pro or con on Deka L-16 batteries? I know that I will have to water them, but I can do that.
Enjoy /s/ Bob
Bob,
Don't have any info on the L16's. My choice is Golf Cart 6 volters ganged up for the voltage.
What type of charger were you using and was it set to GM bats?
What is your MPG on your M11/Ranger setup?
Thank you much and good luck with the battery purchase.
John
Don't have the specifics, but L16's are a very tall, heavy lead acid battery that...yep...require watering. I for one would have an impossible time even lifting one, much less moving it or setting it into some Bus Conversion bay. Maybe others will give us the exact dimensions. HB of CJ :) :) :)
HB; the L 16 is 11 1/2h x 7w x 16L weigh 121# each (Crown)
Bob you should check on the Crown L 16 $297.00 ea at AZ Sun and Wind for the 395 amp hr 6 volt
i am looking into changing to 4 from the 3 8D Lifeline AGM 12V 255 amp hr.
i don't mind the service what I am looking at is the L16 are less than $2.00 per amp hr for 12V and the AGM Lifelines are over $3.00 per 12V amp hr and it just may be me but the Lifelines seem to have no kick but mine are 4 years old .
have a great evening
Ahoy, John, All,
My charger is a Prosine 2000 full sine wave - three stage charger set for AGM, so it was being done correctly. The batteries are ~~5 years old. Never were 'much', now are less.
Fuel mileage with my M-11 Cummins / 10sp Roadranger is good. Midwest flat land, A/C on most of the time in September ~~ 2200 miles was 12.2 mpg. When I run around out here in the mountains, it is less - 11.0 to 11.5 mpg. My genset fuel is a seperate tank, so there is no commingling.
Couple of significant reasons for my good mileage: First -- cooling drag -- My radiator is ~~25% bigger than even the original Eagle -01 radiator. My 34" multi blade aerodynamic fan only runs at ~~60% of engine RPM. Almost off the bottom scale of the fan HP map. Many buses are putting 50-60 HP into the fan, and that power does NOT help the wheels to go 'round.
High axle ratio: 3.333:1 plus 0.78:1 overdrive. So, at 65 mph, I'm moseying along at about 1350 RPM. I never cruise above 65mph, but the sucker will really go. I believe it would run out to the governor at ~~105-110 mph. I don't plan to 'go and see'.
Aerodynamics: A smooth rounded front roof cap, not the Eagle sloped-brow.
Light weight: Full up, I'm at ~~32,000 lbs.
It all counts up.
Enjoy /s/ Bob
Bob,
Really good post....very happy for you.
I never got 5 years out of my bats....you are doing somthing right.
Thanks,
John
Bob,
I really have to interject and anecdotal tale here...
We started full timing in 2001, around March, (IIRCC). Our batteries were comprised of 8 group 31, used, truck batteries, rated at about 115AH each and not built for deep cycle use.
We had no generator, and the only charging system was when we were hooked to the pole, with a couple of schauer10A battery chargers set up to charge at the same time. The other charging method was the engine powered generator, (remember them?), that charged at 160A on one field and added another 160A if the draw became too much for the single field.
Our lead acid batteries lasted almost 8 years, and the only reason I finally retired them was that I have been changing to Deep Cycle Lead Acid batteries. 2 of the first set did go titsup on me, but that was my fault.. I plead that I was still learning... 1 battery went into my brother in laws Dodge Caravan as a boost battery and helps him start in cold weather..I think he would do better with a newer van or an overhaul.
In my opinion, if you are using a decent charge regimen, and watching your batteries and keeping them full of water, (Lead Acid and Distilled Water), it doesn't really matter what you are doing with them, just quit drawing them down as much as you have... I never draw mine down to less than 12.1V as read on a simple SW automotive Volt meter.
If you aren't getting good life out of your batteries, you aren't treating them right.
For instance, I wash my batteries everytime I check them, ( I have seen batteries that had some corrosion around the terminals and the leakage was causing +/- a 3V draw across the case, as measured by a Fluke 87 multimeter).
All batteries are going to leak, expel gas or deteriorate. What your job is, is to minimize that loss. Batteries are expensive... 2 years ago I paid $70/ each for my deep cycle batteries... they've gone way up since then.
For that same $420 I could have bought 168 gallons of fuel, 1/4 of an in frame major overhaul kit for an 8V71, 38+ gallons of Delo 100 40wt oil, a nice month near a good trout fishing hole in Montana, and/or much much more interesting stuff.
From your description, I don't think you'll be happy with anything you replace the old batteries with, unless you learn how to treat them right.
Just because your inverter is set up to charge the batteries correctly doesn't mean it really is charging them correctly. As seen above, if there is a 3V draw from acid or other crud across the battery top, you are also loosing that amount from the charging system, so if you have your charger set up as 14.1V, (as an example only), you are only charging at 11.1V into the battery.
I'm really not trying to be a downer here, but, battery care is important to long life and great performance.
Dallas
Ahoy, BusFolk,
I just bought ten (10 ea) GC 25 Deka batteries on ebay from a good guy (Gary -- phone 408 295 7100 ) at a good price. See ebay Item number: 130271506358. I considered his L-16 batteries, but the $$$/amp hour are much better with these (235 amp hr, plus I can lift these).
The listing says pick-up only in San Jose, CA, but he said that if YOU arrange shipping he would put the batteries on a pallet, shrink wrap them at no charge for pick up from his commercial facility.
Enjoy /s/ Bob
I just priced the 6volt golf cart batteries at Sam's. They are now $66. and change + exchange.
Wow, they were $55 three months ago. I think they are 220AH. Someone correct that if I'm wrong.
I have gotten 6 years out of mine and they are about done. They only last a few hours between charges now. I've been satisfied with them.
David
I am thinking I paid something like $62 each for golf cart batteries at Sam's Club in 2006! (I can't find records with exact price.) I remember the price was under $50 and I waited a few months and the price jumped quite a bit when I needed 8.
Lead prices are back to Jan 06 levels so I'm not sure why Sam's Club would raise prices now. Sam's Club often signs long term contracts so the battery companies may be recouping earlier losses when lead prices skyrocketed and the Sam's Club price was locked in.
I personally love my Lifeline 2-8D batteries. Although heavier then other batteries, the AGM batteries are great since you can mount them in any position (except upside down), they don't gas, so no corrosion, they're sealed so no watering-basically install them, adjust the inverter and alternator to no more than 14.1 volts and forget about them. They are expensive, but because of the tight location of my batteries, I really like the absence of maintenance. Lifeline makes a 300amp 6volt. Good Luck, TomC
TomC, I would not recommend buying the 300 amp 6 volt Lifeline to anybody for awhile they are having a problem.I have had mine for about a year now they have been replaced once and I have 2 sitting in my shop now waiting on replacements but they have a great warranty ( you pay for in the price)